Wiring diagram for 12 or 8 subs

[cloudbuster]

I could not find a good diagram on how to setup 12 = 6 on each channel
Or 8 = 4 on each channel.

Driver is a 4ohm single voice coil.
Amp can only do 4 or 8 ohms.

Thanks.

 

[lovinthehd]

What subs? What amp? Why just one amp?

 

[TLS Guy]

I could not find a good diagram on how to setup 12 = 6 on each channel
Or 8 = 4 on each channel.

Driver is a 4ohm single voice coil.
Amp can only do 4 or 8 ohms.

Thanks.

Well if it can do 4 or 8 ohm it can do 6 ohm

So for 6 to a channel wire 3 and 3 in series and then parallel the two series of three. That will give you 6 ohms.

For the 8 then go two banks of four in series and then parallel those. That will get you to 8 ohms.

This all sounds like a crazy Frankenstein plan though. Can't imagine why you need that many subs.

 

[M Code]

Are these subwoofers for a car audio or home theater install?

Just my $0.02..

 

[cloudbuster]

INUKE 6000.

Home audio.
Well you know is like asking why two subs.
If you can fit 12 why not .
But most likely 8 and later on add another 4.

Thanks TSL that sound like the only way to go.

 

[lovinthehd]

INUKE 6000.

Home audio.
Well you know is like asking why two subs.
If you can fit 12 why not .
But most likely 8 and later on add another 4.

Thanks TSL that sound like the only way to go.

Tease. What subs?

 

[TLS Guy]

INUKE 6000.

Home audio.
Well you know is like asking why two subs.
If you can fit 12 why not .
But most likely 8 and later on add another 4.

Thanks TSL that sound like the only way to go.

In that case I think the phrase "over egging the cake" comes to mind.

 

[cloudbuster]

Tease. What subs?

They small that why the big number of them.
12” JBL CS1214.

In that case I think the phrase "over egging the cake" comes to mind.

Lost on that one

 

[TLS Guy]

Well those are car drivers and not sub drivers in the home audio sense.

They are totally unsuitable for home use. One decent sub would best all those no matter how many you use.

Here is the technical data.

The FS is 28 Hz and they are fairly high Q. They are classic car thumper/boomers.

Look at the FRs sealed, vented and band pass out of car responses. Note the peaked response at 60 Hz vented or sealed. The response falls rapidly after the peak. The band pass box is better, but the frequency is still falling off well above sub range. Sealed they are 18 db down at 30 Hz, 7 db down vented at 30 Hz and 15 db down with the band pass cabinet. If you look at the in car responses, you can see that this type of driver works and fits well for the type of bass you get in a typical car environment from the small cabin gain. That is why sub and home drivers are very different animals.

That will be a terrible home sub system. You are wasting time, effort and money going down that rabbit hole.

 

[lovinthehd]

Ah, the "replacement" for the Infinity 1260. Was just reading the avs thread on them.

Going sealed? What size box?

Seems quite a few are quite happy with these. Hard to beat the price.

 

[TLS Guy]

Ah, the "replacement" for the Infinity 1260. Was just reading the avs thread on them.

Going sealed? What size box?

Seems quite a few are quite happy with these. Hard to beat the price.

And as usual the AVS forum is a sea of ignorance.

 

[TLS Guy]

They small that why the big number of them.
12” JBL CS1214.


Lost on that one

In that case I think the phrase "over egging the cake" comes to mind.

 

[cloudbuster]

lol,
Well I will give it a try and see how it turns out.
Dual 12” 1.22cf per side boxes.

Well those are car drivers and not sub drivers in the home audio sense.

They are totally unsuitable for home use. One decent sub would best all those no matter how many you use.

Here is the technical data.

The FS is 28 Hz and they are fairly high Q. They are classic car thumper/boomers.

Look at the FRs sealed, vented and band pass out of car responses. Note the peaked response at 60 Hz vented or sealed. The response falls rapidly after the peak. The band pass box is better, but the frequency is still falling off well above sub range. Sealed they are 18 db down at 30 Hz, 7 db down vented at 30 Hz and 15 db down with the band pass cabinet. If you look at the in car responses, you can see that this type of driver works and fits well for the type of bass you get in a typical car environment from the small cabin gain. That is why sub and home drivers are very different animals.

That will be a terrible home sub system. You are wasting time, effort and money going down that rabbit hole.

I hope multiples would help a little bit.
With a even bass response.

 

[lovinthehd]

And as usual the AVS forum is a sea of ignorance.

Well don't tell me, go tell all the people on avs that have done just fine with such subs. Enlighten them! I look forward to their response, should be fun.

 

[M Code]

Wow wee..
That system should kick out the bass..
Assuming that iNuke 6000 can really output 6 Kw..

Just my $0.02..

 

[cloudbuster]

Wow wee..
That system should kick out the bass..
Assuming that iNuke 6000 can really output 6 Kw..

Just my $0.02..

It seem it does not, but the drivers are only 250w.
Spec at 4ohms it say 2200w rms but someone say on testing it only did about 1xxx rms, 2k peak

 

[lovinthehd]

Bench test of iNuke 6000 here https://forum.speakerplans.com/behringer-inuke-nu6000-vs-kam-kxd7200-bench-tested_topic69202_page1.html

 

[M Code]

Bench test of iNuke 6000 here https://forum.speakerplans.com/behringer-inuke-nu6000-vs-kam-kxd7200-bench-tested_topic69202_page1.html

I am not a Behringer iNuke fan, too much BS..
6Kw for $399
A couple of months ago, we sold/installed a pro-audio system in downtown LA near Staples Center that replaced a rack of iNuke amplifiers. The club had multiple failures and requested for a reliable system, we designed an updated the system using QSC amplifiers. The system cost was 4x higher but in a pro-audio system failures are not acceptable as system downtime means no revenue....
IMHO...
iNuke tries to pass off their products as pro-audio, unfortunately their reliability is mixed... Something 1 cannot afford in a pro-audio application. A couple of weeks ago, we sold off some of the working iNuke 6000 amplifiers on e-bagger for $105 each, the defective ones ended up in the dumpster.

Just my $0.02...

 

[lovinthehd]

I am not a Behringer iNuke fan, too much BS..
6Kw for $399
A couple of months ago, we sold/installed a pro-audio system in downtown LA near Staples Center that replaced a rack of iNuke amplifiers. The club had multiple failures and requested for a reliable system, we designed an updated the system using QSC amplifiers. The system cost was 4x higher but in a pro-audio system failures are not acceptable as system downtime means no revenue....
IMHO...
iNuke tries to pass off their products as pro-audio, unfortunately their reliability is mixed... Something 1 cannot afford in a pro-audio application. A couple of weeks ago, we sold off some of the working iNuke 6000 amplifiers on e-bagger for $105 each, the defective ones ended up in the dumpster.

Just my $0.02...

I'm not particularly a fan, when I originally looked into such too many complaints about reliability and construction issues for my taste. They are cheap and appealing and probably better than Pyle I can't imagine dragging something like a Behringer around on tour in any case.

 

[TLS Guy]

So I have taken the time to model your design. Please see attached file. I have used two to a box as you stated that is what you will do.

Points to note. The enclosures will not be that small. Allowing for the volume of the drivers, the boxes will be 3.1 cu.ft.

The response is typical of a car driver, with a very peaked response. Peak is centered at 100 Hz. As with sealed enclosures there is a fall off from the peak giving a 3 db point of 45 Hz. After that roll off is 12 db per octave as all sealed subs are. So the - 12 db point is 25 Hz.

Qtc is at the upper limit of acceptable at 0.707. So the bass will be on the warm side. If you try and make the enclosures small they will boom and be unpleasant.

Note that each enclosure reaches xmax at 110 Hz with the rated 500 watts RMS drive for two drivers.

If you look at the graph of maximum electrical power versus frequency then you will note that these drivers will take very little power below F3 of 45 Hz. These drivers are not expensive so I would anticipate damage driving them hard below that frequency. With the amp power you are going to use, they really do require a high pass filter at 12 db per octave at 45 Hz.

Now mid 40 Hz is quite deep bass actually. 44 Hz if the fundamental of a 16 ft organ diapason principal, Most organs to not have stops longer than 16 ft, and do not sound particularly bass deficient if they have well voiced principals.

The bottom line is that for most music your plan will produce reasonable bass. If it is deep movie sound effect you are after then your plan is not adequate.

When all said and done though that whole complicated arrangement you plan would be bested in the bass by my center channel speaker and blown right out of the water by my left and right mains!

I should state that modelling in the bass is highly accurate. JBL as usual produce very full specifications. Your results will be exactly as predicted.