Upgrade Advice Needed, Modern Day Equivalent of 1990 Sony TA-AX401 Integrated Amp?

[Verdinut]

You can get the Yamaha A-S501 brand new from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-S501BL-Natural-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B00MXUCRG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517850736&sr=8-1&keywords=Yamaha+A-S501

You may be able to hear one at a Bestbuy store. They sell it at same price as Amazon.

This amp has more power than the NAD and its frame is designed to stand in a horizontal position which is less awkward and more secure than the vertical position. In addition, it has tone controls (Bass & Treble) and a handy loudness control, which is not very easy to have on an integrated amp nowadays:

https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/hifi_components/a-s501/index.html

The more powerful A-S801 was reviewed by AH and it provides info about the quality of the A-S amp line construction.
http://www.audioholics.com/amplifier-reviews/yamaha-a-s801-amplifier-review

 

[sholling]

So what is the ratio, how do you figure out which receivers are safe for your set of speakers?

It's not about a ratio. What matters is speaker sensitivity and you'll have to research your speakers' sensitivity. A really sensitive speaker might have a rating of 98db @ 1 watt @ 1 meter. Measuring from 1 meter away it will produce a maximum of 98db of volume from 1 watt of energy. That's exceptional. A less sensitive speaker might only produce 84db @ 1 watt @ 1 meter. Doesn't sound like a lot does it? Well for every extra 3db of volume you need double wattage - 2w, 4w, 8w, 16w, 32w, 64w, 128w etc, and that doesn't take into account seating distance from the speakers. Unless you're sitting right next to your speakers I would not try to get by with 30w. I've linked some nice receivers in this thread but I cannot guess how much power your speakers need because the answer is that it depends... depends on how sensitive your speakers are and how loud you want to play them. I can tell you that back in the 80s I fried the tweeters of my then 3y/o speakers because I repeatedly drove my 50wpc receiver into clipping.

 

[lovinthehd]

So what is the ratio, how do you figure out which receivers are safe for your set of speakers?

There's this thing called the volume control....

 

[Verdinut]

Let's put it this way. If you get the NAD 30 watt/ch amplifier, you might possibly be able to drive your speakers. But, in the future for some reason, you decide to get replacement speakers which are less sensitive, your NAD might not be able to drive them to acceptable sound pressure levels, and you will regret not having bought a more powerful amp. Most speakers today have low to moderate sensitivity. Why risk not having enough power for the future?

Please note that you risk more damaging speakers with an amplifier which doesn't have enough power. If overdriven, it will clip its output voltage and produce harmonic distortion which could destroy your tweeters. It's always good to have a certain power headroom. This is why I have been suggesting the Yamaha A-S501 amplifier. You can get the matching tuner at a later time when you have saved the additional money to get it.

 

[KenM10759]

What speakers are to be driven, how far from them do you sit and how loud do you need to go?

The NAD D3020 or D3020v2 specs show 30 watts (not 40 on either, apparently) but 60 watts @ 8Ω or 100 watts @ 4Ω for "IHF dynamic power." I can verify it goes damn loud with my R100's that dip down to 4Ω, but I'm only 3 feet from them sitting on my desk.

The Yamaha A-S501 is a really nice choice if you have the room. I've heard it and it's pretty sweet. I doubt it has the same kind of headroom though.

 

[Verdinut]

The Yamaha A-S501 has a lot more headroom: Over 3dB more @ 8 ohms.
High Dynamic Power of: 130W at 8 ohms, 150W at 6 ohms, 185W at 4 ohms and 220W at 2 ohms. These figures are for each channel and I would assume for both channels simultaneously. The power supply is indeed adequate. Its distortion figures on paper are lower too. Yamaha are known to be conservative in their figures.

https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/hifi_components/a-s501/specs.html#product-tabs

There is no comparison. IMO, it's definitely a better future proof buy.

Regards,

 

[AudioGekko]

There's this thing called the volume control....

True but you clearly do not understand what we are writing about but we all thank the legendary contribution.

 

[AudioGekko]

What speakers are to be driven, how far from them do you sit and how loud do you need to go?

The NAD D3020 or D3020v2 specs show 30 watts (not 40 on either, apparently) but 60 watts @ 8Ω or 100 watts @ 4Ω for "IHF dynamic power." I can verify it goes damn loud with my R100's that dip down to 4Ω, but I'm only 3 feet from them sitting on my desk.

The Yamaha A-S501 is a really nice choice if you have the room. I've heard it and it's pretty sweet. I doubt it has the same kind of headroom though.

https://offerup.com/item/detail/181221075/ Sony SS-U501's from the early 90's, 270 watts maximum level is all I can find on them, perhaps someone here with more knowledge on older speakers might be able to figure out a ballpark range of the sensitivity.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-SS-U501-Tower-Speakers-Re-foamed-Woofers-Grill-Cloth-Tested-/322985319157

 

[AudioGekko]

Let's put it this way. If you get the NAD 30 watt/ch amplifier, you might possibly be able to drive your speakers. But, in the future for some reason, you decide to get replacement speakers which are less sensitive, your NAD might not be able to drive them to acceptable sound pressure levels, and you will regret not having bought a more powerful amp. Most speakers today have low to moderate sensitivity. Why risk not having enough power for the future?

Please note that you risk more damaging speakers with an amplifier which doesn't have enough power. If overdriven, it will clip its output voltage and produce harmonic distortion which could destroy your tweeters. It's always good to have a certain power headroom. This is why I have been suggesting the Yamaha A-S501 amplifier. You can get the matching tuner at a later time when you have saved the additional money to get it.

It is not about saving money, I don't feel like throwing money at something that my ears won't detect much of a difference. Just like I can afford a higher electric bill but I would rather use a more efficient receiver, seriously, is there a $1000 receiver that produces 80 watts at 8 ohms that does not consume over 50 watts of energy sitting at idle?

 

[Verdinut]

It is not about saving money, I don't feel like throwing money at something that my ears won't detect much of a difference. Just like I can afford a higher electric bill but I would rather use a more efficient receiver, seriously, is there a $1000 receiver that produces 80 watts at 8 ohms that does not consume over 50 watts of energy sitting at idle?

I strongly doubt that you will be able to find such an efficient receiver.

If you can afford a higher electric bill, why do you worry about a silly low increase in idle power consumption?

 

[lovinthehd]

True but you clearly do not understand what we are writing about but we all thank the legendary contribution.

LOL seriously? You're the one who seems to have no clue on all this....

 

[AudioGekko]

LOL seriously? You're the one who seems to have no clue on all this....

Bingo, well you are learning, progress.

 

[lovinthehd]

Bingo, well you are learning, progress.

Bingo indeed. You seem to have trouble with learning. The volume control is an answer to what you were asking, all receivers are "safe" when used properly.

 

[AudioGekko]

I strongly doubt that you will be able to find such an efficient receiver.

If you can afford a higher electric bill, why do you worry about a silly low increase in idle power consumption?

Personal preference, I'm trying to find knowledge from a board of experts, if you have the time and info I thank you, if you don't, well what is the difference why...

 

[AudioGekko]

Bingo indeed. You seem to have trouble with learning. The volume control is an answer to what you were asking, all receivers are "safe" when used properly.

No, there are all different levels of learning, this board is not the grade school level, again thanks for the contribution but we are all operating on that general premise of volume control.

 

[Verdinut]

I spent a lot of time making valid suggestions and my reasons for them in detail, but it seems that you are never satisfied with any answer.
As Lovinthehd said, you seem to have no clue on all this. That's all from me!

 

[AudioGekko]

I spent a lot of time making valid suggestions and my reasons for them in detail, but it seems that you are never satisfied with any answer.
As Lovinthehd said, you seem to have no clue on all this. That's all from me!

What is the problem first "volume control" and now "satisfied", thank you for the suggestions but your suggestions are not what I am looking for, yes I am not an audio expert, which is why I am posting here, yes I wrote in my post I was looking for efficiency and a moderate amount of clean watts, the Yamaha is not where I want to go, I'll send you a Best Buy gift card if you are offended, good night.

 

[lovinthehd]

No, there are all different levels of learning, this board is not the grade school level, again thanks for the contribution but we are all operating on that general premise of volume control.

You're the one looking for something more complicated and probably less effective. Maybe you can learn something but with your smartass attitude without smarts....you'll need some pretty good luck with that.

 

[AudioGekko]

You're the one looking for something more complicated and probably less effective. Maybe you can learn something but with your smartass attitude without smarts....you'll need some pretty good luck with that.

Thank you, based on my reading so far, I like my chances.

 

[KenM10759]

Wow, speakers that size need more power than most any $500 or less amp can drive.

I suggest either upping the budget it find used.

An NAD C356BEE factory refurbished might come in at that though.