I am about to set up my "music listening room." I already have a media room with 7.1 sound, so I want this mostly for me listening to music (2-channel, Klipsch Forte III speakers), and for my wife to watch a new 75" 4K TV, with a third Forte III as center channel. No subs or surround speakers for now, maybe later. I plan on a Marantz SR6011 or 6012. The TV will be on a wall, with just the three speakers. The audio rack will be out of the way on the right, not in the main field of vision while listening to 2-channel or watch TV.
I need some practical advice on cabling. A neighbor has offered to help hide all the cabling behind drywall, but first I want to set it up and listen for awhile. What do you recommend for speaker cabling, the HDMI between the TV and receiver, and all the cabling between the various components on the audio rack (which I assume will be HDMIs mostly).
I like the idea of locking banana plugs for the speakers - I am tired of bare wire hookups. Should I buy the cable and plugs separately and make them myself? I like that idea...
I am not one of those who believe in spending huge on cables, but I do not want cheap, either. Thanks in advance for your experienced advice!
First and foremost, if you hide the cabling, make sure it can be replaced without tearing anything apart. HDMI fails and they continue to change the specs, so it's not a matter of if it will need to be replaced, it's a matter of
when. I would hold off buying long HDMI cables until you need them and I would use one long one to feed the display, rather than letting the display switch the sources and using ARC. ARC, CEC and HDMI control suck and at training, the manufacturers tell us to turn these off if we want to have a moment's peace. Nothing ruins a weekend faster than getting calls, e-mails and texts from customers when they lose the video to a TV or projector but still have sound, all because the cable to the TV or projector stopped working, even though it hasn't been pulled too hard or damaged in any other way (like the one I recently replaced). I hate HDMI and I want it to die.
DO NOT buy a Redmere cable if you're using 4K/HDR/10bit color- it doesn't even work in all cases for 1080 resolution (that's how it was used for the one that stopped working). Get a simple HDMI cable- I have been using Vanco with good results- the one that stopped working was Key Digital and I'll NEVER use their products again, after learning that they won't cover the one that puked. Did I mention that I hate HDMI?
If you decide to hide everything (and it makes for a much cleaner look, as well as making for easier furniture selections), go through the bottom of the wall, into the lower level and to the side if the rack won't be directly under the display. It's a bit daunting, but it's not really too difficult- you just need some long and/or larger diameter drill bits. Also, you need to know that power cords can't legally be passed through walls, so it's much easier to install a power INLET and then put an outlet behind the TV.The power inlet looks like the end of a power cord that plugs into a receptacle (outlet) and these are sold by companies like Midlite- it's a lot less expensive than buying the kit- you can buy junction boxes for less than a dollar (unless you're in Chicago, where they want everything to be in metallic conduit). One inlet, one outlet, two junction boxes and a 50' roll of Romex will cost less than the kit and you should have wire left over. Also, companies like Arlington sell dual-voltage junction boxes that separate the high voltage side (power) from the low voltage side (communication cabling). If possible, use flexible conduit for the low voltage cabling- if you can't but still have access from below, you can leave a pull cord and tie it to the junction box so you can add or replace cabling, as needed.
ALWAYS give yourself a way to add or replace cabling- this is even more important in new construction or remodeling- stapling cables in place is a good way to guarantee they'll stop working- it's much better to put a staple on the framing and use wire ties to hold the cables in place, as long as the ties aren't too tight (Cat5/6/7 are sensitive to this). Also, don't pull too hard on cables and don't make them bend too tightly- Cat5e has a maximum pull strength of 25 pounds. Cabling as what's called 'minimum bend radius'- this means NOT bending it over sharp edges of lumber, steel, plastic, etc. The minimum radius is typically stated as 4 times the diameter but if you want to be safe, think in terms of a soda can if the bundle includes thick cables.