K

Keith Posey

Audiophyte
I'm running to Velodyne CT-150. One of them burned a resistor out on the amplifier board. I have attempted to reach Velodyne numerous times via email to find out what the value of that resistor is and no responses at all from them. Is there anybody that can help me figure out what this resistor value is so I can replace it and get back to enjoying my home theater?
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Normally they just send you the schematic. Others here have said it can be difficult to get them to respond, especially for older products.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Is the resistor burned out completely? You can't read the color code at all?

Be aware, the resistor burn out may be a symptom, not the disease! Some other problem may have caused the resistor to fry.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
You have two of them...can you check the other one?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I'm running to Velodyne CT-150. One of them burned a resistor out on the amplifier board. I have attempted to reach Velodyne numerous times via email to find out what the value of that resistor is and no responses at all from them. Is there anybody that can help me figure out what this resistor value is so I can replace it and get back to enjoying my home theater?
Well I have bad news for you. A burned resistor is never the cause of failure, but a product of the failure. If you replace it the next one will burn right away.

A burnt out resistor is a clue to the failure. When you look at the schematic the burnt resistor gives you a good clue where to start looking for the real cause of the failure.

Unless you are an experienced tech, it is new sub time.
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
Well I have bad news for you. A burned resistor is never the cause of failure, but a product of the failure. If you replace it the next one will burn right away.

A burnt out resistor is a clue to the failure. When you look at the schematic the burnt resistor gives you a good clue where to start looking for the real cause of the failure.

Unless you are an experienced tech, it is new sub time.
Is there no option to replace the amp?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Those subs may have been okay 17 years ago, but with a lower -3dB of 36hz and upper of 83hz, meh....it's also apparently got a servo circuit for the amp to make amp replacement a problem....
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
No they are servo subs, and only an exact replacement will do.
I was afraid of that. Thanks for the clarification.

I know Rythmik build servo subs, but they don't seem to be interchangeable.

Sad day. BUT new sub shopping will be fun.
 
K

Keith Posey

Audiophyte
Thank you for all the responses. I'm aware that the resistor wasn't the cause but the symptom. And it's not really a servo sub like the HGS. It doesn't have a sensor connected to the subs VC. I was told Velodyne will only let authorized service tech's have the schematics. As of now I am running an external amp.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Thank you for all the responses. I'm aware that the resistor wasn't the cause but the symptom. And it's not really a servo sub like the HGS. It doesn't have a sensor connected to the subs VC. I was told Velodyne will only let authorized service tech's have the schematics. As of now I am running an external amp.
That is true that it does not have a VC sensor, but it still has active EQ. All sealed subs need some type of EQ or they have a very high F3.

This is the arrangement of your sub.

[The CT series has four models: CT-80, CT-100, CT-120, and CT-150, with the respective drivers 8", 10", 12", and 15" in diameter. The CT-150 has a 250 watt rms A/B amplifier with current sensing feedback from the driver voice coil (2 1/2"). Velodyne's top of the line subs use a solid state accelerometer mounted on the voice coil. Current sensing feedback is less accurate than servos, but it is also less expensive. Current sensing feedback works by knowing what the current is that is being fed to the voice coil by the amplifier, and sensing what the current is that is being generated by the actual voice coil movement within the gap of the magnet. The difference in the waveforms between the amplifier feed and the voice coil generated current (this difference represents distortion) is inverted and fed back into the amplifier. This cancels out much of the distortion produced by inaccurate movement of the driver cone. The CT-150 is the only member of the CT series that has current sensing feedback.]

With current sensing that sub has an f3 of 23 Hz, so very good bass extension. I would estimate that with your current external amp set up the f3 is at least an octave higher probably mid forties.

So unfortunately you don't have the same sub you had before.

I would guess that if you equalized it with something like mini DSP by boosting 12 db per octave below about 45 to 50 Hz you would have performance in the ball park of what you had before.

You would need a 12 db per octave filter at 25 Hz to prevent driver damage. I suspect that current sensing system also prevented excessive cone excursion.
 
K

Keith Posey

Audiophyte
Thank you for the input. I'm well aware of the specs for this speaker. The current sensing feedback is more of an anti clipping circuit from what I learned. There is only the output leads on the amp and the speaker. Also it is not a sealed enclosure. It is vented. I do appreciate the crossover advice. More than likely I will be sending the amp to a company called EBC for repair.
 
K

Keith Posey

Audiophyte
[Thank you for the input. I'm well aware of the specs for this speaker. The current sensing feedback is more of an anti clipping circuit from what I learned. There is only the output leads on the amp and the speaker. Also it is not a sealed enclosure. It is vented. I do appreciate the crossover advice. More than likely I will be sending the amp to a company called EBC for repair. I'm running a NAD amplifier bridged mono.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
[Thank you for the input. I'm well aware of the specs for this speaker. The current sensing feedback is more of an anti clipping circuit from what I learned. There is only the output leads on the amp and the speaker. Also it is not a sealed enclosure. It is vented. I do appreciate the crossover advice. More than likely I will be sending the amp to a company called EBC for repair. I'm running a NAD amplifier bridged mono.
If it is vented there will not be Eq. I would just use an external amp. One of the Crown pro series will do nicely. That will probably be less than the cost of repair and better.

This one would drive both subs nicely.

Be careful bridging that NAD. It needs an 8 ohm load bridged. Most sub woofer drivers are 4 ohm or less. Many amps bite the dust being bridged as people do not realize in bridge mode that the minimum safe impedance is doubled.
 
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