Powered Subwoofer- which one should I buy?

I

IRIERIC

Audiophyte
To anyone willing to give their opinion:
I'm looking to purchase a powered sub to complete a home theater/audio system. Because I'm not exactly flush with cash, and my system is a "good enough for now" kind of system, I do not need to purchase the "BEST" sub. What I need is recommendations for the best options for my setup. I was able to acquire my current pieces for a fraction of the normal cost used, so I am not opposed to going that route for something. Plus, it would already be broken in, but hopefully not broken;-) I've been looking at 12" ported subs. I've looked into SVS and Paradigm- I know they're good. But could I get by on a BIC Acoustics or even a Polk and save some money for now? Or am I just throwing that money away? I do buy a good sub now to use down the road if i upgrade? Is they're better options for my situation, which is this:

Space-
Living room is horizontal seating 14' x 22'
Middle of one wall is entertainment wall, flanked by French doors on both sides
2 open doorways behind the main seating area (1 which has portieges made from heavy upholstery fabric, both open doorways basically oppose the French doors)
Large sections of windows at both ends of the room (with heavy fabric blinds)
Wooden floors with 1 large area rug
Mostly wooden furniture
I watch films and listen to a great deal of music (mostly LP's)

System-
(an intended 7.1 with cd & turntable for music)
Marantz SR8500 7.1
Paradigm LCR 400, 5 speaker system
2 Paradigm Cinema 330
Sony Bluray DVD/CD Player
Audio Technica LP120

Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.
 
ATLAudio

ATLAudio

Senior Audioholic
How much do you want to spend? Of those brands, I'd look at the SVS PB2000.
 
S

shadyJ

Speaker of the House
Staff member
One problem is your on-wall speakers do not have a very extended response. This means, if you want to hear the bass range evenly, you will a higher crossover setting for the sub than 80 Hz. That means you need a sub that plays higher than 80 Hz. The problem with that is when you raise the crossover point higher than 80 Hz, the sub localizes, or draws attention to itself instead of seamlessly integrating in with the rest of the system for a good sound. One way to combat this is to get multiple subs and place them in different areas of the room.

Anyway, it looks like you are too broke to get a sub with good low end extension, but you can still get some subs with decent mid bass for not a lot of money. If I were you, I would get two of these guys. They probably won't give you really deep bass, but they should sound fine with most content, especially if you take care in giving them good placement that will give you the best overall sound.

If you want deep bass, the subs that can give you that start at $500. You will need to if you don't want a gap in the bass response or localized bass.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
...

Space-
Living room is horizontal seating 14' x 22'
Middle of one wall is entertainment wall, flanked by French doors on both sides
2 open doorways behind the main seating area (1 which has portieges made from heavy upholstery fabric, both open doorways basically oppose the French doors)
Large sections of windows at both ends of the room (with heavy fabric blinds)
Wooden floors with 1 large area rug
Mostly wooden furniture
I watch films and listen to a great deal of music (mostly LP's)
....
Welcome.
Is the TV on the 14' wall or the 22'?
 
I

IRIERIC

Audiophyte
One problem is your on-wall speakers do not have a very extended response. This means, if you want to hear the bass range evenly, you will a higher crossover setting for the sub than 80 Hz. That means you need a sub that plays higher than 80 Hz. The problem with that is when you raise the crossover point higher than 80 Hz, the sub localizes, or draws attention to itself instead of seamlessly integrating in with the rest of the system for a good sound. One way to combat this is to get multiple subs and place them in different areas of the room.

Anyway, it looks like you are too broke to get a sub with good low end extension, but you can still get some subs with decent mid bass for not a lot of money. If I were you, I would get two of these guys. They probably won't give you really deep bass, but they should sound fine with most content, especially if you take care in giving them good placement that will give you the best overall sound.

If you want deep bass, the subs that can give you that start at $500. You will need to if you don't want a gap in the bass response or localized bass.
So 2- 8", or 2- 10"?
 
I

IRIERIC

Audiophyte
Might also check out the Dayton SUB1200 or SUB1500 if on a budget. I'd go BIC over Polk subs but rather not either.
I've spoken with audio friends that will talk brands like those down as well, then I have a friend who has worked in audio equipment, low-high end. He speaks highly of them, and even suggests maybe starting there, testing, and maybe moving up, maybe not. So I guess, my question is, what are the big differences, and is the more money spent really worth it and why?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I've spoken with audio friends that will talk brands like those down as well, then I have a friend who has worked in audio equipment, low-high end. He speaks highly of them, and even suggests maybe starting there, testing, and maybe moving up, maybe not. So I guess, my question is, what are the big differences, and is the more money spent really worth it and why?
Your audio friends suggested what? Search for Brent Butterworth's testing of a Dayton sub. Dayton's UM-18 driver is used by Mark Seaton in some of his subs, and Seaton is fairly high end in sub world.

I wouldn't consider Velodyne any longer now that they've moved away from audio, Paradigm has had a few higher priced sub offerings that were decent (that were a bit overpriced) but nothing special IMO. SVS has a solid product but so does Hsu, Rythmik, Power Sound Audio, Seaton, Funk, etc. $500-600 is entry level for good subs.

I think good subwoofage is essential but that's for my own purposes/tastes and my own extension (how low) and spl (how loud) goals. I build my own now.

What did you mean by "go digital"? Missed that the first time....
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Yes I do.
Might check out the diy subforum here, or at avsforum.com. You can build your own box modeled for a specific driver or you can even buy driver/flatpack kits that mostly need gluing together. Somewhat has to do with tolerance of box/driver size as larger is generally better....
 
I

IRIERIC

Audiophyte
Welcome.

Is the TV on the 14' wall or the 22'?
Might check out the diy subforum here, or at avsforum.com. You can build your own box modeled for a specific driver or you can even buy driver/flatpack kits that mostly need gluing together. Somewhat has to do with tolerance of box/driver size as larger is generally better....
Thanks, I'll have to do a little research then
 
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