Hi, I have the Goldenear Triton Ones along with a Marantz 8802a preamp. My current amp quit working

[Audiophileman]

I am trying to buy a replacement. I had a vintage Hafler Transnova 9500 that lost the right channel. I am looking for the best amp to pair with the Tritons. I use my system for 2 channel and home theater. I want to change to monoblocks. First I am looking at the ATI 6002, which has excellent reviews from a few different reviewers. One of them made the comment that you would have to spend 10 grand to get notably more amp. Their biggest complaint is the lack of audio jewelry. The ATI 6002 says it is a complete dual mono design, with separate transformers x2 also 2 power cords also separate power supplies, and 2 20 amp breakers on the back of the unit. All of this is in a single chassis. So I don't know if you lose anything by not being in 2 separate chassis. Next I am looking at the Parasound JC1. All reviews have been positive, it also gives you the first 25 watts in pure class A. My only concern is that their lineup has been around for many years, and I am wondering if they will refresh their amps anytime soon? Next is the PS Audio BHK 300 it got a good review from Stereophile, but not steller. The ATI and PS Audio are completely balanced from input to output. The JC1 is balanced on the xlr connectors, but not all the way through. I spoke with Parasound and they confirmed that. I am not sure how much of a difference that makes, and I am hoping someone with that experience can help. The problem I have is I am a 5 hour drive away from any dealers, so I am not able to listen for myself. One other thing is the ATI is a modular design, not the traditional design amp. So there again I am hoping someone with experience can tell me the pros and cons of that if there are any. I appreciate all the help. Audiophileman.

 

[mtrycrafts]

Welcome.

Yes, others will tell you about their experience with those amps but there is really no worry about driving to listen. No need. One listens to speakers preferably in their own acoustic space. Get the amp that meets your needs, no. of channels needed and enough power to drive your speakers plus flexibility. Simple.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Any of these Amps and many other Amps (like ATI AT3002) will sound great.

You definitely don't need to drive anywhere to compare them.

People may debate whether one amp sounds a little differently than another amp.

But everyone will agree that all great quality Amps sound great.

The ATI AT3002 sounded awesome with my Revel Salon2, B&W 802 D2, KEF 201/2, and RBH SX-T2/R towers.

 

[Audiophileman]

Welcome.

Yes, others will tell you about their experience with those amps but there is really no worry about driving to listen. No need. One listens to speakers preferably in their own acoustic space. Get the amp that meets your needs, no. of channels needed and enough power to drive your speakers plus flexibility. Simple.

Thanks, for the help.

 

[Audiophileman]

Any of these Amps and many other Amps (like ATI AT3002) will sound great.

You definitely don't need to drive anywhere to compare them.

People may debate whether one amp sounds a little differently than another amp.

But everyone will agree that all great quality Amps sound great.

The ATI AT3002 sounded awesome with my Revel Salon2, B&W 802 D2, KEF 201/2, and RBH SX-T2/R towers.

Thanks for the help. So you are an authorized dealer for ATI? If so have you heard the ATI 6002? The magazine reviews seem excellent, however some of the forums say it is little bright. Do you have an opinion on that? Thanks again, Audiophileman.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Thanks for the help. So you are an authorized dealer for ATI? If so have you heard the ATI 6002? The magazine reviews seem excellent, however some of the forums say it is little bright. Do you have an opinion on that? Thanks again, Audiophileman.

You definitely need to be careful with some of the things people say.

No, the ATI AT6002 is not bright.

The ATI AT6002 is exactly 100% neutral as long as your speakers are neutral and your preamp/processor is neutral.

I would put the AT6002 up against any amp in the world.

 

[Pogre]

You definitely need to be careful with some of the things people say.

No, the ATI AT6002 is not bright.

The ATI AT6002 is exactly 100% neutral as long as your speakers are neutral and your preamp/processor is neutral.

I would put the AT6002 up against any amp in the world.

You know, I have my beefy Monolith so when I see something different I like to compare specs. I just looked at the 6000 (assuming similar specs as 6002) and holy crap! That thing is a beast!

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

You know, I have my beefy Monolith so when I see something different I like to compare specs. I just looked at the 6000 (assuming similar specs as 6002) and holy crap! That thing is a beast!

Talk about over-engineered and over-built.

I have 2 independent 20-Amp circuits in my Home Theater Closet (a 3rd independent 20-Amp circuit for my projector), which is a good candidate for the 2 independent power cords of the AT6000 amp.

But no way I'm lifting that 143 LBS AT6007 amp.

 

[Mikado463]

along with all that is mentioned I'll add the Pass Labs X260.8. I just put a pair into my kit, so far so good ......

 

[Audiophileman]

You definitely need to be careful with some of the things people say.

No, the ATI AT6002 is not bright.

The ATI AT6002 is exactly 100% neutral as long as your speakers are neutral and your preamp/processor is neutral.

I would put the AT6002 up against any amp in the world.

You definitely need to be careful with some of the things people say.

No, the ATI AT6002 is not bright.

The ATI AT6002 is exactly 100% neutral as long as your speakers are neutral and your preamp/processor is neutral.

I would put the AT6002 up against any amp in the world.

Wow to say that you would put the 6002 up against any amp in the world means a lot. Can you tell me the major differences between the 3002 and 6002? I have 3 dedicated 20 amp lines in my system. I also have 2 of the Furmansound SPR-20i voltage regulators in my system. They are both 20 amp units plugged into the wall, and then I am planning on plugging the amp into them. If I get the 6002 my thinking is to get that since it is a true dual mono design for the front channels. Then If I am happy with the 6002, later on when I can afford I would add a 6007. I even considered a pair of the JC1 for the fronts and a 6007 for everything else. Having a tough time to decide. Not sure what would be better. Hopefully I get some good suggestions, and then make my decision. The JC1 gives 25 watts of pure class A, wondering if that would sound better than an A/B amp, for 2 channel listening? Thanks, Audiophileman.

 

[Mikado463]

the JC1's are a A/B amp, they are just biased (on the high setting) for the first 25 watts into Class A, that's all.

The Pass Labs X260.8 , an A/B amp as well is biased into Class A for the first 34 watts.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Wow to say that you would put the 6002 up against any amp in the world means a lot. Can you tell me the major differences between the 3002 and 6002?

I would say the AT6000 amps sound like a flagship Mark Levinson amp and the AT3000 amps sound like a "low-end" Mark Levinson amp.

 

[Pogre]

the JC1's are a A/B amp, they are just biased (on the high setting) for the first 25 watts into Class A, that's all.

The Pass Labs X260.8 , an A/B amp as well is biased into Class A for the first 34 watts.

The general consensus here is that you won't notice any real appreciable difference from one amp to the next, all things being equal. As long as they're competently built and operating within their stated parameters they're going to sound the same. If what you choose has sufficient power, channels and is rated to power your speakers, it's all up to the dsp from there.

 

[PENG]

The general consensus here is that you won't notice any real appreciable difference from one amp to the next, all things being equal. As long as they're competently built and operating within their stated parameters they're going to sound the same. If what you choose has sufficient power, channels and is rated to power your speakers, it's all up to the dsp from there.

I think the Monolith, ATI amps are competently designed and built. The JC and Passlab mentioned will go higher while staying in class A, but crossover distortion is no longer an issue for class AB amps such as the Mono and the ATI. Some may still want to debate this to the nth degree but distortions are not difficult to measure so there is no point arguing. I wouldn't pay extra money for the higher class A power output that comes with extra weight and heat. For people who can hear things related to weight and heat, they should go for the JC and the big Passlab amps.

 

[mtrycrafts]

...it's all up to the dsp from there.

Great speakers will also help.

 

[mtrycrafts]

... Some may still want to debate this to the nth degree ...

That's where it matters though, the nth degree. Or, was that the nth+1.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Great speakers will also help.

Yeah, I hate to be the bearer of bad news for the OP, but the Triton-1 speakers appear to be kind of "bright" on the Stereophile measurement. It looks to be +5dB from 9-12kHz, +6dB to +7dB around 15-16kHz.

https://www.stereophile.com/content/goldenear-technology-triton-one-loudspeaker-measurements

So I'm afraid any great NEUTRAL amp (ATI, Parasound, Mark Levinson, Lexicon, etc.) may end up sounding kind of "bright".

 

[mtrycrafts]

...

So I'm afraid any great NEUTRAL amp (ATI, Parasound, Mark Levinson, Lexicon, etc.) may end up sounding kind of "bright".

That was my line.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

That was my line.

Oh my bad.

Great minds think alike.

Here is the $8500 Goldenear Reference tower: +4dB from about 10-15kHz. A little "bright".

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/goldenear-technology-triton-reference-loudspeaker-review-test-bench

So I think the best thing to do with Goldenear speakers is to just buy less expensive Amps and use Audyssey XT32 in the awesome Marantz pre-pro to help that bright treble.

Also, Goldenear speakers are very sensitive (usually 92dB/w/m). I used to own the $5500 DefTech BP7000SC, $3500 BP7001SC, and $1000 CLR3000. I think the towers were also 92dB/w/m. All five speakers had minimum impedance below 3 ohms. Yet I powered all five speakers with a $500 50WPC HK AVR to high volume > 90dB from 12FT.

A lot of people don't think much about the Amps inside AVR. But we know that at least the mid-level Denon (3000 series) and Marantz AVRs have good dynamic power output into 1 ohms. So the HK AVR could probably handle 2 ohms dynamic.

Anyway, those sensitive GE Tritons don't really need that much power. So the Marantz 150WPC Amps (if you need 7CH) and 140WPC Amps (if you need 5 or 10Ch) would also work great.

Man, I wished Denon had come out with a 5Ch 140WPC or 150WPC amp, instead of that 150LBS POA-A1HDCI Beast Amp.

 

[slipperybidness]

Yeah, I hate to be the bearer of bad news for the OP, but the Triton-1 speakers appear to be kind of "bright" on the Stereophile measurement. It looks to be +5dB from 9-12kHz, +6dB to +7dB around 15-16kHz.

https://www.stereophile.com/content/goldenear-technology-triton-one-loudspeaker-measurements

So I'm afraid any great NEUTRAL amp (ATI, Parasound, Mark Levinson, Lexicon, etc.) may end up sounding kind of "bright".

Despite the GE measurements, my T2 have never sounded bright in the slightest to my ears! I know that my hearing stops around 15-16kHz, so perhaps that rising response is even a good thing for my ears?

Either way, "bright" is not a description that I would use for the T2.