Speaker Wattage

[mtrycrafts]

.... RMS. This is the constant amount of power a speaker can handle. ...

And, how do you arrive at the RMS power?

Yes, that is a trick question, if you will.

 

[yepimonfire]

And the statement sound quality can be measured is inherently a problem. I wouldn't even agree with most of your subjective speaker descriptions. Plus you leave the stupid tapatalk ad which further denigrates your opinions

I mean to imply accuracy. As far as subjective preference, Harman has demonstrated that objective measurements can predict preference in blind tests, with subjects preferring the more accurate speaker over the colored one. How does one define sound quality? When one speaks of a any other product, quality is an objective measurement, for example, high quality leather, vs a cheap imitation. One might prefer imitation leather due to price, or animal welfare reasons, but its an obvious fact that real leather is more durable, and looks nicer.

If a speaker measures +-3dB, it can be said to be accurate vs colored. Does not matter if you've heard it or not. Doesn't mean one would prefer other characteristics of the speaker, for example, I like Klipsch speakers because of their high sensitivity, wide off axis response, and controlled dispersion. Their new models are more accurate, but I'd prefer their older models even with the brightness because of these characteristics, since high dynamic range, high SPL, and a wide sweet spot are among top priority for me, but put a reference II series (which is unnaturally bright) next to a reference premiere model (which is more accurate), and I'll always choose the premiere, even though brightness doesn't bother me.

What descriptions are you referring to? Obviously, not everyone will agree with my preference, since its an opinion, however, stating a fact, such as a speaker measures +-3dB from 50hz-20khz, isn't exactly debatable, assuming the measurement was performed correctly.

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[yepimonfire]

And, how do you arrive at the RMS power?

Yes, that is a trick question, if you will.

Theoretically, if a manufacturer only lists the max power, you could divide that by two. In practice though, any manufacturer that fails to list RMS power ratings has likely pulled their max rating out of their ass.

Obviously when we talk about the numbers and math behind it all, its theoretical. Once you put a speaker in a room with walls and play real music or movies on it, which vary in frequency and dynamics (and so does the speakers impedance, sensitivity, and distortion), things change, but it at least give you a ballpark estimate.

Its also a given that power ratings cannot be 100% trusted, and are only a guideline. Many manufacturers derive their rating using a 1khz sine wave, which inflates the value somewhat. The only way to truly determine the power handling capability of a speaker is to play pink noise or a 20hz-20khz sweep and use a fluke true RMS multimeter, you'd probably need a few of the speakers in question, since you're gonna have to blow them to push them to their limits.

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[lovinthehd]

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[yepimonfire]

I don't know what it has to do with the topic. Disabling it has proven unsuccessful, after restarting the app, its back again.

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[Pogre]

I don't know what it has to do with the topic. Disabling it has proven unsuccessful, after restarting the app, its back again.

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Must have something to do with it. It's in every single one of your posts...

 

[lovinthehd]

I don't know what it has to do with the topic. Disabling it has proven unsuccessful, after restarting the app, its back again.

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They're simply annoying to read over and over. You change Settings - Signature - Edit Signature to off (or put a real signature in with custom). I've only had to do it once, one of the first things I did with using tapatalk. Re-starting or re-installing?

 

[mtrycrafts]

... and use a fluke true RMS multimeter, you'd ...

Missed my question. How do you arrive at RMS wattage of anything? What to you multiply by what?

The fluke only measure RMS voltage, maybe current too. Still, how is it calculated, from what measurements?

 

[PENG]

Theoretically, if a manufacturer only lists the max power, you could divide that by two. In practice though, any manufacturer that fails to list RMS power ratings has likely pulled their max rating out of their ass.

As others have already mentioned, we don't know what the manufacturers meant by maximum power because it would likely vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.... (I think HD said so) They could mean the maximum average power, peak power the speaker can handle, continuously, or for a unspecified duration, or something else. I also don't know what you meant by dividing the max power by 2. For Sine wave, average power=peak power divide by 2, but max power does not always mean peak power.

Its also a given that power ratings cannot be 100% trusted, and are only a guideline. Many manufacturers derive their rating using a 1khz sine wave, which inflates the value somewhat. The only way to truly determine the power handling capability of a speaker is to play pink noise or a 20hz-20khz sweep and use a fluke true RMS multimeter, you'd probably need a few of the speakers in question, since you're gonna have to blow them to push them to their limits.

I hate to bring this up but please be reminded that technically speaking there is no such thing as rms power while there are certainly rms voltage and current. V rms (volts) X I rms (amperes) X PF = Average power (Watts). RMS power has practically become a generally accepted erroneous term that is interchangeable with Average power in audio gear talks, but the moment we start doing the math (your divide by 2 thing for example), then we should go back to the correct term because mathematically speaking RMS does not equal average. I think may be that's what mtry was alluding to.

 

[mtrycrafts]

...
I hate to bring this up but please be reminded that technically speaking there is no such thing as rms power while there are certainly rms voltage and current. V rms (volts) X I rms (amperes) X PF = Average power (Watts). RMS power has practically become a generally accepted erroneous term that is interchangeable with Average power in audio gear talks, but the moment we start doing the math (your divide by 2 thing for example), then we should go back to the correct term because mathematically speaking RMS does not equal average. I think may be that's what mtry was alluding to.

Exactly. Thanks. I was hoping to drive him to that answer on his own. But I guess I failed.