Need help converting a car subwoofer system to work as a home audio sub

J

js3

Audiophyte
I have a spare car audio subwoofer enclosure with (3) blown 10" subs in it.

I also have a main home audio receiver and a spare home audio receiver. The main audio receiver has a pre-subwoofer output.

My desire is to:
(1) Replace the damaged subwoofers
(2) Use the main receiver's pre-sub out (to get the isolated low-frequency signal) and go into any input (ie: CD) of my spare home audio receiver, and then wire the subs to the Left or Right speaker output on the spare amp (or bridge them?)

Based on the limited research I've done online, I believe this is "safe" to do (ie: the amplifier should be able to power all 3 subs since it is dedicated to only the subs, and not get over heated), and I believe this will also give me the capability to use the spare amp to independently control the volume of the subs.

I would love to get an audio expert's thoughts on what I've proposed, and/or a link to a wiring diagram that I can refer to in terms of how to safely wire the subs so that I am able to match ohms (ie: series vs. parallel and bridge or mono from spare amp to subs).

Concerns:
1. Most subs I see online are 4 ohms, but my receiver is 8 ohms. I believe this can be solved based on how I wire the system.

2. Do I need to consider single-voice coil subs vs. dual voice coil subs?

Thanks!
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Your avr isn't a good sub amp, and not likely going to like low impedance loads let alone demands of subs in general, and likely isn't suitable for bridging either. Your sub driver/box combo may be useless in large rooms like a home compared to a small compartment as in a car. Post specific make/model of your receivers and details of your sub drivers/box. Most at best likely you need to be looking at a separate power amp for your subs, but first need to determine if they're worth considering for your room at home.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I have a spare car audio subwoofer enclosure with (3) blown 10" subs in it.

I also have a main home audio receiver and a spare home audio receiver. The main audio receiver has a pre-subwoofer output.

My desire is to:
(1) Replace the damaged subwoofers
(2) Use the main receiver's pre-sub out (to get the isolated low-frequency signal) and go into any input (ie: CD) of my spare home audio receiver, and then wire the subs to the Left or Right speaker output on the spare amp (or bridge them?)

Based on the limited research I've done online, I believe this is "safe" to do (ie: the amplifier should be able to power all 3 subs since it is dedicated to only the subs, and not get over heated), and I believe this will also give me the capability to use the spare amp to independently control the volume of the subs.

I would love to get an audio expert's thoughts on what I've proposed, and/or a link to a wiring diagram that I can refer to in terms of how to safely wire the subs so that I am able to match ohms (ie: series vs. parallel and bridge or mono from spare amp to subs).

Concerns:
1. Most subs I see online are 4 ohms, but my receiver is 8 ohms. I believe this can be solved based on how I wire the system.

2. Do I need to consider single-voice coil subs vs. dual voice coil subs?

Thanks!
This plan is a total waste of time and money.
 
Y

yepimonfire

Audioholic Samurai
Car sub's usually don't sound as good in a home theater setup, however, if you're set on doing this, your best bet would be using a pro audio amp, since it can handle the low impedance, and connecting it to the sub out on the receiver. A regular HT amp or receiver would likely be destroyed by heat from the kind of low impedance used in car subs.

Sent from my 5065N using Tapatalk
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
If all of the drivers are blown and need to be replaced you should really just start over and build a sub with a new box, driver, and amp. No need to use used parts that weren't made for the job.
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
By the time you replace the three damaged subs, you could have bought a quality driver and basic flat pack cabinet from Parts Express along with a plate amp. The bright side of all of this is you already have a receiver with a sub out.
 
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