How to use a power conditioner?

B

bradfair

Audiophyte
Hi everyone, I just bought a Panamax MR4300 conditioner and this is the first time I've used a conditioner. My setup includes an LG TV, an Android media player, and a Klipsch 5.1 setup (RF-62 II fronts, RB41 II rears, RC62 II center, SW-112 powered sub, and Onkyo TX-NR626 receiver). I'd like to ask 2 questions:

1) The Panamax has 2 sets of outlets, "high current" and "linear filtration." Can someone recommend which ones to use for which devices? There will be the TV, media player, sub, and receiver.

2) Is it alright to use an extension cord between the Panamax and the sub? The sub is at the other side of the room, which I know isn't ideal, but the room layout just won't allow it to be positioned next to the conditioner, so its power cable doesn't reach.

Thank you.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Why are you even using a conditioner in the first place?
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
I've owned a few Panamax units and honestly, they aren't really worth it. I'd probably return it.

Most subs should not be plugged into the power conditioner anyway.
 
B

bradfair

Audiophyte
Why are you even using a conditioner in the first place?
I read it's useful for cleaning up the power and increasing the sound and picture quality. This seems to be the consensus on the reddit audiophile forum. So I looked on Crutchfield and this one had great reviews for the price so I figured I'd give it a try and see if I heard/saw a difference. But I didn't want to hook it up until I knew which things to plug into which outlets.

Most subs should not be plugged into the power conditioner anyway.
Why?
 
Bucknekked

Bucknekked

Audioholic Samurai
Hi everyone, I just bought a Panamax MR4300 conditioner and this is the first time I've used a conditioner. My setup includes an LG TV, an Android media player, and a Klipsch 5.1 setup (RF-62 II fronts, RB41 II rears, RC62 II center, SW-112 powered sub, and Onkyo TX-NR626 receiver). I'd like to ask 2 questions:

1) The Panamax has 2 sets of outlets, "high current" and "linear filtration." Can someone recommend which ones to use for which devices? There will be the TV, media player, sub, and receiver.

2) Is it alright to use an extension cord between the Panamax and the sub? The sub is at the other side of the room, which I know isn't ideal, but the room layout just won't allow it to be positioned next to the conditioner, so its power cable doesn't reach.

Thank you.
bradfair
Welcome to the forum. Lots of good expertise here.
New posters such as yourself do the right thing by asking questions about products like this. It would be ever so much better perhaps if the questions came BEFORE the purchases. Its takes the sting out of what you learn in the answers. Hopefully you have the option of returning it after you read a half dozen replies.

Typically, a conditioner is only useful if you know you have seasonal or other local conditions that cause a dirty or interrupted AC source. Some members live in rural areas that are affected by storms and aging power systems. After doing some work to determine how dirty their power is, some have gone with a conditioner.

A power conditioner will not "increase sound and picture quality" as you may have hoped it would. Sales and marketing materials will claim that. Certain other audio forums may also heap praise on them as well. But the plain truth is unless your AC source is a mess, the conditioner is a "feel good" buy but not one that will actually yield results you can hear or see.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I read it's useful for cleaning up the power and increasing the sound and picture quality. This seems to be the consensus on the reddit audiophile forum. So I looked on Crutchfield and this one had great reviews for the price so I figured I'd give it a try and see if I heard/saw a difference. But I didn't want to hook it up until I knew which things to plug into which outlets.
Are you experiencing this dirty power, causing havoc with your other appliances? Was your tv a mess and your audio hard to listen to? Probably not if you're in the US would be my guess. Your gear's power supplies are built to deal with it to a large extent anyways.

I probably have an off the cuff smartass response for "reddit audiophile" based on their recommendations, like is that an oxymoron? I'll go take a peek over there before I say something like that out loud :)
 
B

bradfair

Audiophyte
Thanks for the replies. Since I already have it, I'm going to test it and see if I notice a difference. Does anyone have a specific recommendation for my 2 questions? (whether I should use "high current" outlets or "linear filtration" ones, and whether it's fine to use an extension cord to the sub - whether or not I'm using the conditioner with it)

to answer lovinthehd's question, everything seems pretty good, although I can hear a slight buzzing if I put my ear next to them. It's the same in the other room as well where I have some M-Audios with my computer and there's very noticeable buzzing from them. Also when you use the waste disposal in the kitchen, the lights dim while it's running. Do those things indicate dirty power or are they unrelated?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Looked at their reference guide doesn't even mention it that I see as to what the guidelines are, I suppose you could try their customer service..... but I'd think highest current demands would be from your amp/sub.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Thanks for the replies. Since I already have it, I'm going to test it and see if I notice a difference. Does anyone have a specific recommendation for my 2 questions? (whether I should use "high current" outlets or "linear filtration" ones, and whether it's fine to use an extension cord to the sub - whether or not I'm using the conditioner with it)

to answer lovinthehd's question, everything seems pretty good, although I can hear a slight buzzing if I put my ear next to them. It's the same in the other room as well where I have some M-Audios with my computer and there's very noticeable buzzing from them. Also when you use the waste disposal in the kitchen, the lights dim while it's running. Do those things indicate dirty power or are they unrelated?
You are going to like my answer even less. Panamax units are useless and offer little to no protection. They do NOT condition power, and will not likely protect your equipment and may even damage it. There is no warranty on any Internet purchases.

People who do not understand specs buy these sort of units. Anybody able to understand specs would never purchase these units.

So what this unit does is just monitor AV voltage. If the unit senses an AC voltage over 135 volts, and below 100 volts, it disconnects the unit abruptly. Whereas a unit worth using would boost and shave the voltage and not cut it off.

Worse at 200 volts or over it uses old fashioned crude clamp circuitry that permanently disconnects your unit. That means your Panamax unit is then useless until repaired or replaced.

It only says you have protection to 300 volts. Any meanin full spec that would tell you how much useful protection you have is absent. So I assume it provides zero to no useful protection from a thunderstorm. Any legitimate device will specify how many joules of energy it will absorb and shunt to ground before your equipment is toast. This unit has no such spec.

As far as conditioning is concerned it just states "_Panamax Level 3 Noise Filtration". That is a meaningless spec and assume the AC signal is not altered in any way, and nor should it need to be as the AC signal has to be kept in tight parameters by your power company under Federal law.

As far a LAN protection it only offers clamping at 62 volts. Again the Panamax will be ruined, and so will your connected equipment at that voltage.

Again for coax connection from cable, satellite and over air antennas there is clamping at 75 volts. Again the Panamax will be ruined and so will your equipment.

The only truly fraudulent statement is that it completely protects your equipment from a lightening surge. That is impossible and there is no unit made that will or can guarantee that.

I have personally seen units where these units have failed to protect from trivial events, or may be caused the damage.

Their hope is that customers will not understand the specs and therefore how over priced, useless and unnecessary these units are.

My advice is not to use it ever. There is no guidance form their spec as to what the actual difference in those outlets is. I'm certain however that these units do not alter the steady AC signal in any way, and nor does it need to.

The way to protect if you are in a rural area like I am and prone to severe weather events, is to use a whole house surge protector, properly specified so you know how many joules of charge you are protected from. Then what you need is a unit that has batteries like a UPS, that can shave and support lowered or increased line voltage in 1 to 5ms, and also return to battery if the line voltage is way out of spec and seamlessly keep your equipment running. It should also provide soft shut down in event of power failure. In my case the UPS devices power the gear until the auto generator starts, which takes about 5 seconds.

Unfortunately you have been conned and you need to go into reverse on this one.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
You are going to like my answer even less. Panamax units are useless and offer little to no protection. They do NOT condition power, and will not likely protect your equipment and may even damage it. There is no warranty on any Internet purchases.

People who do not understand specs buy these sort of units. Anybody able to understand specs would never purchase these units.

So what this unit does is just monitor AV voltage. If the unit senses an AC voltage over 135 volts, and below 100 volts, it disconnects the unit abruptly. Whereas a unit worth using would boost and shave the voltage and not cut it off.

Worse at 200 volts or over it uses old fashioned crude clamp circuitry that permanently disconnects your unit. That means your Panamax unit is then useless until repaired or replaced.

It only says you have protection to 300 volts. Any meanin full spec that would tell you how much useful protection you have is absent. So I assume it provides zero to no useful protection from a thunderstorm. Any legitimate device will specify how many joules of energy it will absorb and shunt to ground before your equipment is toast. This unit has no such spec.

As far as conditioning is concerned it just states "_Panamax Level 3 Noise Filtration". That is a meaningless spec and assume the AC signal is not altered in any way, and nor should it need to be as the AC signal has to be kept in tight parameters by your power company under Federal law.

As far a LAN protection it only offers clamping at 62 volts. Again the Panamax will be ruined, and so will your connected equipment at that voltage.

Again for coax connection from cable, satellite and over air antennas there is clamping at 75 volts. Again the Panamax will be ruined and so will your equipment.

The only truly fraudulent statement is that it completely protects your equipment from a lightening surge. That is impossible and there is no unit made that will or can guarantee that.

I have personally seen units where these units have failed to protect from trivial events, or may be caused the damage.

Their hope is that customers will not understand the specs and therefore how over priced, useless and unnecessary these units are.

My advice is not to use it ever. There is no guidance form their spec as to what the actual difference in those outlets is. I'm certain however that these units do not alter the steady AC signal in any way, and nor does it need to.

The way to protect if you are in a rural area like I am and prone to severe weather events, is to use a whole house surge protector, properly specified so you know how many joules of charge you are protected from. Then what you need is a unit that has batteries like a UPS, that can shave and support lowered or increased line voltage in 1 to 5ms, and also return to battery if the line voltage is way out of spec and seamlessly keep your equipment running. It should also provide soft shut down in event of power failure. In my case the UPS devices power the gear until the auto generator starts, which takes about 5 seconds.

Unfortunately you have been conned and you need to go into reverse on this one.
APC used to manufacture power conditioners which guaranteed protection from lightning surges. The H15 H-Type Power Conditioner was one of them. This model is no longer made.

I happen to have one installed on my sound system. A device like this one is a necessity in my apartment mainly because of large voltage fluctuations related to various power demands in the area. This conditioner trims and boosts the voltage as the situation demands.

In the safety information details, concerning lightning it says:
"This device employs Metal Oxide Varisters (MOVs), and other circuitry to protect against lightning and other sources of voltage surges or sags. It is not necessary to turn this device or the devices connected to this device, off during a lightning storm".

I don't know the reasons behind the decision to discontinue the manufacture of such product. It may have to do with too many related owners' claims.
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
I have a Panamax in my new set up. I wanted a neat way to run my cords and still have some size to help hide things.

It has pretty blue lights which works for me.

Use the high current for you AVR and TV and plug the rest of the gear in the other one. Plug the sub directly into the outlet and not the Panamax. It's not like it does anything anyway.:D
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
High current outlets were meant for amp, receiver, etc.. aka higher current devices. Everything else goes on the other bank.

I like that on my APC I can turn OFF all the LEDs except power.
 

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