Replacement for Mark Levinson No. 38?

[Msmoto]

As my recent emergence into high end audio progresses, I have purchased a Bluesound Vault 2 to rip CD's, and am looking seriously at bringing my pre amp and amp more up to date.

Thus, as I like to see what is going on via something on the front of the pre amp, I am considering replacing my Mark Levinson no. 38 with an NAD Masters M12 pre amp. I will do a week long comparison, head to head, prior to any purchase, but the NAD seems to offer nice information on its face, helpful to old folks...LOL

Are there any thoughts on the NAD M`12, and are there suggestions as to a possible similar product in the same price range?

Eventually, I will replace my amp, a Mark Levinson No. 27.5, probably go the NAD route with that as well, unless other thoughts posted here draw me in a different direction.

Thanks for any ideas.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Why would anyone go from Mark Levinson to NAD?

 

[TLS Guy]

I have to agree with he above, and going from Mark Levinson to Not Always Dependable equipment makes no sense to me.

I am older also, but I buy good gear and keep it long. I only add a piece or change a piece if there is real measurable added improvement, or usually because there is a useful function that would add useful function and scope to the system. The lights on the front panel would not even get close to my bar.

Your side by side comparison by the way, will tell you nothing except may be mislead into making a mistake.

That Blue Sound Vault 2 may be a good unit. However it is really a computer with add ons someone else selected.

For the money you spent you could have got an audio work station and DAC and set it up the way you want. You would then have access to everything on that unit and more. I bet you could also have installed pro software for that money or close.

 

[lovinthehd]

Have to agree with the above, even though I find Mark Levinson stuff to be way overpriced, I certainly wouldn't trade it in for NAD on the other hand. Wouldn't even cross my mind. Just what information do you want to see displayed that you're not getting now?

 

[Msmoto]

If one reads up on the No. 38, the issues are that while nearly bullet proof up to the point of failure, sound has been improved on the No. 38s, 380, and 380s. The pricing of a new Mark Levinson No. 523 Pre Amp, at $15,000 is way beyond what I would like to spend. Even a used No. 380s would need to be reconditioned for about a total of $5,000.
What I am looking for is a pre amp with more modern electronics, a phono stage and DAC.

Are there any suggestions from those who have expressed and opinion? I am so far out of the current loop, my mind is open to your thoughts.

Thanks

 

[lovinthehd]

Don't know what you need in a pre-amp? Simple 2ch stuff?

PS How is sound improved on what supposedly is already state of the art equipment? Did they simply improve the specs again?

 

[Dave Blount]

If one reads up on the No. 38, the issues are that while nearly bullet proof up to the point of failure, sound has been improved on the No. 38s, 380, and 380s. The pricing of a new Mark Levinson No. 523 Pre Amp, at $15,000 is way beyond what I would like to spend. Even a used No. 380s would need to be reconditioned for about a total of $5,000.
What I am looking for is a pre amp with more modern electronics, a phono stage and DAC.

Are there any suggestions from those who have expressed and opinion? I am so far out of the current loop, my mind is open to your thoughts.

Thanks

if you're 'Jonesin' for a change have you thought used ? Explored options on AudioGon ? What exactly does your #38 NOT do for you ?

 

[Msmoto]

Most of the chats regarding the ML pre amps suggest an improvement from the 38 to the 38s, 380, and 380s, the latter being the one suggested as the best. The 38 seems a bit laid back in mids and highs, maybe not all bad with the speakers I have, Totem Acoustics Element Metal with the Thunder II Sub.

The age of my No. 38 and 27.5 suggest maintenance would be wise to prevent any failures. One group of folks suggest the sonic performance will be the same up to failure, but others, specifically electrical engineers who are hardware/software designers, are telling me the capacitors as they age become slower electrically and this would color the signal coming out to the amp.

Would it be good to have the ML stuff go through preventive maintenance at a total cost of $3,000 for both?

 

[Msmoto]

OK, one more idea, the McIntosh C47 pre amp? This along with a up-fitted No. 27.5 ML Amp? Thoughts?

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

How about some room treatments? Unless your room is already treated, you'll probably get much better bang for your buck. Or is the idea so you can get feedback on the display?


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[Msmoto]

The room is extensively treated.
A photo of the set up showing the television covered so as to eliminate reflections. This produces a sound stage where the dog on Roger Water's Amused to Death is behind and to my right. Essentially the speakers totally disapper.
Tee Ve or Not Tee Ve_01.05.2017_TFL-1 by Tommie Lauer, on Flickr

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

Beautiful. I just thought I'd ask since the environment seemed to escape the equation. Or maybe it only escaped me.


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[AcuDefTechGuy]

I would just get something like a new AVR or pre-pro from Denon or Marantz + ATI amp.

Other people will like other brands, but you get the picture.

NAD is not going to be any better.

 

[Msmoto]

Hello, all,

After some further investigations, I have come to the conclusion that to really warm up the current configuration, a tube preamplifier is the way to go. Or, if some of you have some ideas about a "warm" solid state pre amp, I am all ears, no pun intended.

Some of the suggestions from the "experts" have been McIntosh, Audio Research, VTL, or Lamm. I have an opportunity to audition a a VTL 5.5 Series II which will be in about a week or two, hopefully.

If there are any other thoughts about how to bring a warmer presentation into my current configuration, I am certainly very appreciative of any help.

 

[lovinthehd]

I'd move the pig. Personally I'd use dsp, change the room around, or different speakers.....not the electronics.