Wall-mounting KEF 3005 speakers

Y

yonyz

Audioholic
Hi everyone,

I have a pair of KEF 3005 satellite speakers. I picked them up used a few days ago and the stands (which also serve as wall-mounting brackets) are missing.

These speakers are egg-shaped, and their mounting screw holes are rather deep, so they're inaccessible by the typical universal satellite speaker mount.

The KEF dealer in my country couldn't find a suitable mount for them, and they don't have the original KEF mounts for sale either, despite the fact that the speakers as a set are still being sold.

Another issue with their egg-shape (which looks really cool) is that they can't stand on a shelf/desk either, because they have no flat surface whatsoever.



I'm looking for suggestions as to how to hang these speakers. I'd like to use them as surrounds (I have bookshelves for fronts).



Thank you.
 
tyhjaarpa

tyhjaarpa

Audioholic Field Marshall
They seem to have screw holes for hanging in back.


But as they have the thread for the stand I would look for a bolt that fits in thread and make / have some one to make a wall mount by your needs for your speakers.
 
Y

yonyz

Audioholic
They seem to have screw holes for hanging in back.


But as they have the thread for the stand I would look for a bolt that fits in thread and make / have some one to make a wall mount by your needs for your speakers.
You're looking at a E301 speaker, it's not the one I have but the issue is similar - the screw thread is rather inaccessible by most universal mounts.

Who could possibly make a custom mount for speakers?
Perhaps it's time for my second DIY audio project...
I'd have to use wood, right?
 
tyhjaarpa

tyhjaarpa

Audioholic Field Marshall
You're looking at a E301 speaker, it's not the one I have but the issue is similar - the screw thread is rather inaccessible by most universal mounts.

Who could possibly make a custom mount for speakers?
Perhaps it's time for my second DIY audio project...
I'd have to use wood, right?
Ahh, my bad as google gave that picture up with 3005.

I was thinking metal mount. As it would be pretty simple to build one if you have the bolts with correct thread ready and welding machine and few pieces of metal. If you have some local smithy they could make those and as its quite easy task I would say it wont cost much either.
 
Y

yonyz

Audioholic
Ahh, my bad as google gave that picture up with 3005.

I was thinking metal mount. As it would be pretty simple to build one if you have the bolts with correct thread ready and welding machine and few pieces of metal. If you have some local smithy they could make those and as its quite easy task I would say it wont cost much either.
Unfortunately with metal it's not doable, I'd have to enlist the help of a smith and explain it and it would be expensive and time consuming.

With wood, I can do it myself. Downsize to both diy paths is no adjustability to the angle or anything.
 
tyhjaarpa

tyhjaarpa

Audioholic Field Marshall
Unfortunately with metal it's not doable, I'd have to enlist the help of a smith and explain it and it would be expensive and time consuming.

With wood, I can do it myself. Downsize to both diy paths is no adjustability to the angle or anything.
For simple works smiths can be quite cheap, at least here. I for example had one custom part made for my car and it costed only 40€. Wall mount for those speakers would be really simple and smith could make them in 1 hour I believe. You could draw the kind of mount you like with measurements to keep it simple, or show picture from some wall mount and tell the measurements you want.

Of course you could also make them from wood. Adding a swivel would make it more expensive and more complicated to make but it is possible.
 
L

lewb

Audioholic Intern
Unfortunately with metal it's not doable, I'd have to enlist the help of a smith and explain it and it would be expensive and time consuming.

With wood, I can do it myself. Downsize to both diy paths is no adjustability to the angle or anything.

You could use or make French cleats out of 1/2 inch wood. mount one piece to the speaker and the other to the wall. A French cleat is a 45 degree cut on both pieces of wood that interlock, you can also find them made out of metal on amazon. Just an idea.
 
Y

yonyz

Audioholic
You could use or make French cleats out of 1/2 inch wood. mount one piece to the speaker and the other to the wall. A French cleat is a 45 degree cut on both pieces of wood that interlock, you can also find them made out of metal on amazon. Just an idea.
I don't see how I could mount anything to this speaker. I took it to two stores who sell universal mounts and both told me I'd have to use the KEF mount with these.

I've made a short (video turned to) gif so you could see in more detail the problem with the location of the screw threads.

https://goo.gl/photos/o4FcHDHFA5xEqZdP8
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Unfortunately with metal it's not doable, I'd have to enlist the help of a smith and explain it and it would be expensive and time consuming.

With wood, I can do it myself. Downsize to both diy paths is no adjustability to the angle or anything.
Just build mounts that are adjustable. I saw your gif, I agree, find a bolt that works and is long enough to access the fitting, and then design the mount based on the bolt that fits. You can also find "all thread" rods instead of a bolt, that route may be easier if you are OK with cutting and filing all thread.

As far as mount material, wood should work fine if you can work with that.

If it were ME, I would get a bolt or all thread as mentioned, then I would design my mount in CAD software, then I would make a high-quality print with my 3D printer :cool:

Any chance you know someone with a 3D printer and CAD experience?

The other option would be to hit up KEF directly and see what they tell you (i.e. cut the dealer out of the conversation).
 
Y

yonyz

Audioholic
Just build mounts that are adjustable. I saw your gif, I agree, find a bolt that works and is long enough to access the fitting, and then design the mount based on the bolt that fits. You can also find "all thread" rods instead of a bolt, that route may be easier if you are OK with cutting and filing all thread.

As far as mount material, wood should work fine if you can work with that.

If it were ME, I would get a bolt or all thread as mentioned, then I would design my mount in CAD software, then I would make a high-quality print with my 3D printer :cool:

Any chance you know someone with a 3D printer and CAD experience?

The other option would be to hit up KEF directly and see what they tell you (i.e. cut the dealer out of the conversation).
That's what I was thinking, to design one myself with SketchUp and 3D-print it (I know someone who has access to a 3D printer). Or do it with wood, but then it won't be adjustable.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
That's what I was thinking, to design one myself with SketchUp and 3D-print it (I know someone who has access to a 3D printer). Or do it with wood, but then it won't be adjustable.
Yeah, if you can use SketchUp and have access to a 3D printer, that will be the easiest route, and have the benefit of a very clean looking final install! That is absolutely the route that I would take!

For something like this, I personally use 40% infill, 0.3mm layer height, and 4 shell layers for the final print. However, for "test fit prints" I do a quick print at a lower quality to insure that my measurements are accurate and my parts align and fit as expected. Sometimes, the 3D print may shrink more than expected as the plastic cools, so I highly recommend some test prints as part of the design process.

Just be aware, a high quality print may take 5 to 10 hours depending on the size of the object. It's just tool time, the cost of the plastic material is trivial.

I am just about done designing a custom telescope mount and finder scope mount myself, already printed up Rev1 and about ready to print Rev2. I'll try to post some pics later. If I can trust a high quality print for my telescope (granted it is a 90mm scope), then you should be fine for small speakers.
 
Y

yonyz

Audioholic
Yeah, if you can use SketchUp and have access to a 3D printer, that will be the easiest route, and have the benefit of a very clean looking final install! That is absolutely the route that I would take!

For something like this, I personally use 40% infill, 0.3mm layer height, and 4 shell layers for the final print. However, for "test fit prints" I do a quick print at a lower quality to insure that my measurements are accurate and my parts align and fit as expected. Sometimes, the 3D print may shrink more than expected as the plastic cools, so I highly recommend some test prints as part of the design process.

Just be aware, a high quality print may take 5 to 10 hours depending on the size of the object. It's just tool time, the cost of the plastic material is trivial.

I am just about done designing a custom telescope mount and finder scope mount myself, already printed up Rev1 and about ready to print Rev2. I'll try to post some pics later. If I can trust a high quality print for my telescope (granted it is a 90mm scope), then you should be fine for small speakers.
How will I know if the mount is capable of holding 2kg satellites?
Also, 5-10 hours is a lot of time... My brother has a printer in his workplace, but to use it for such a long task seems a bit rude to me.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
How will I know if the mount is capable of holding 2kg satellites?
Also, 5-10 hours is a lot of time... My brother has a printer in his workplace, but to use it for such a long task seems a bit rude to me.
5 to 10 hours of print time seems like a long time, until you start getting serious about 3D printing! 20+ hour prints are common, 10+ hour prints are normal.

Once you print it, it should be obvious if it is sufficient. 40% infill with PLA filament, 4 shells, 0.3mm thickness, this will be STRONG, likely difficult to break by hand.
 
Y

yonyz

Audioholic
Someone (on a local forum) suggested something much simpler - using 2 L shaped metal bars that connect to each other and then to the wall and the speaker thread. Example:

 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Someone (on a local forum) suggested something much simpler - using 2 L shaped metal bars that connect to each other and then to the wall and the speaker thread. Example:

I like the idea of simple hardware like this....
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
Someone (on a local forum) suggested something much simpler - using 2 L shaped metal bars that connect to each other and then to the wall and the speaker thread.
That seems like it would work. 2kg is about 4.4 lbs. That's light for speakers. If you drive the screw into a wooden stud in your wall, it should easily work.
 
tyhjaarpa

tyhjaarpa

Audioholic Field Marshall
Someone (on a local forum) suggested something much simpler - using 2 L shaped metal bars that connect to each other and then to the wall and the speaker thread. Example:

That would work.. And you could even make that from flat iron to make it stronger, just need to bend it twice and drill holes, that way you could make 2 holes in both ends and avoid the speaker from getting in wrong angle. That way you could also make it in specific angle you want the speaker to be in.

Edit: After looking at this I got an simple idea that would work and look decent as well.


You will need flat iron 1" wide for example cut in desired length and bend it to angle, drill 1 hole to fit threaded rod / bolt that fits your speaker thread, apply nut(s) to hold it on place and drill 2 holes for wall mounting. After you have finished it paint it to match your wall color and mount it.
 
Last edited:
Y

yonyz

Audioholic
That would work.. And you could even make that from flat iron to make it stronger, just need to bend it twice and drill holes, that way you could make 2 holes in both ends and avoid the speaker from getting in wrong angle. That way you could also make it in specific angle you want the speaker to be in.
I don't have the tools to do that.
 
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