Hi Peng,
Now I have people advising that I shouldn't Bi-Amp because that IS the function of the amplifier, to provide the extra power to the right and left speakers (all speakers as a matter of fact).
Those people are not alone on this, I thought all of us on this thread advised you the same, that there was no need to bi-amp (passive bi-amp), that it could even be a waste of time if you tried doing it with your receiver. I only tried to tell you how to do it, but only if you insist on doing it. The fact is, you seem determined to do it right from your first post. I also did say that since you now have a real power amp, there is no harm trying it and in fact there are at least theoretical advantages to do it.
Yes the 200WX7 Monolith will provide extra power (compared to you receiver) to the speakers, all channels, but that has little to do with bi-amp or not.
Especially since I have the Monoprice 7x200 Amplifier will be more than enough power.
Depending on your need that may be true. However, if you only use 5 channels you will have 2 channels sitting idle. So if you use them to bi-amp the front left and right channels, you will have even more power reserve for those speakers regardless, not much more but still more.
Also the Monoprice does not have a BI-Amp feature. Your thoughts please.
My thought is that those advising you may not know much about amplifiers. The Monolith 7X200W has 7 independent channels and if you only bi-amp the front right and left channels, you need 2X2+3=7 channels for your 5.1 configuration. So I have no idea what the heck they are talking about.
Bi-amp is mostly
not about more power, though in many cases it does offer a little more power depending on several factors. When you bi-amp, you remove the jumper at the speaker terminals, so that the low frequency and higher frequency signals will be amplified by two separate amplifiers. In doing so, believers think better sound quality could be achieved, mainly in the higher frequencies. I am not a believable in practical term but I can vouch for the theory part.
To learn more about bi-amp, you may want to read the article in the following link, I have had a lot of conversations with the writer long before that article was published, so nothing surprised me in his article:
http://www.audioholics.com/frequent-questions/the-difference-between-biamping-vs-biwiring
Also in theory, active bi-amp is the real deal, but if you read what I pasted below from Anthem's FAQ, you will see that the topic is still controversial.
http://www.anthemav.com/support/faq.php
"Doesn't passive biamping waste the amp's power because each channel still has to amplify the full range signal and not just the highs or the lows?
No. With the jumpers removed on a biampable speaker, the impedance of each section is not the usual 4 or 8 ohms, but several hundred if not more at the frequencies that the amp is "not supposed to be amplifying". Higher impedance means less current draw. No meaningful amount of current, no wasted power.
According a recurring audio-myth, only an active crossover should be used for biamping, in order to split the band before the power amp instead of inside the speaker, thereby reducing the amount of work each amp channel has to do. While active crossovers do have their place in PA systems, it should be noted that equalizers are also a part of it.
A generic active crossover on its own merely divides the audio band into smaller ones. The carefully custom-designed crossover in a high performance home audio speaker does a lot more. It is responsible for correcting frequency response aberrations of the individual drivers, maintaining phase coherence between drivers, optimizing off-axis response, balancing levels between drivers, setting up impedance, at times improving woofer performance by rolling off not just the top, but also frequencies that are too low and cause it to misbehave, and other things that vary according to model.
Tearing out the speaker's own finely-tuned crossover to replace it with an active crossover with generic controls almost guarantees that, just for starters, frequency response will be altered. Different sound doesn't mean better sound. Using the passive crossover in the speaker is indeed the correct way to biamp.
(What's biamping? It's using one amp channel for the speaker's mid-high frequency drivers, and another for the low-frequency drivers. The speakers must have separate inputs for this - be sure to remove the jumpers from the speaker inputs first or amp will become instant toast! If one amp starts running out of power, usually the one driving the woofer, then the other side remains clean instead of becoming part of the problem, a double-win. This is the very idea behind bass management and powered subwoofers in home theater systems.)"
