Read: Should I Spend That Much on Exotic Audio Cables!?
How much do you think audiophiles should spend on cables? Let us know...[/QUOTE]
Well it all comes down to skill and brains.
If you can use a Soldering Iron correctly you have skill. If you know how to read schmatics or plans , you have brains. Both these put together will get you very close to having your own Techie Spec Quality Cables if you buy the right Cable - 16/22/24 AGW full copper Speaker Cable, Gold Plated Connectors and a small amount of solder coil (optional but better quality connection and finish). All this for say 1 surround system including subwoofer = 100yds cable, (5.1 sys = 24 connectors) (7.2 sys = 30 connectors) (9.2 sys = 40 connectors). 2 way stereo = 4 connectors/by-wired = 12 connectors - double this for Quad System).
Now price depends upon the type of connector you want and the finish quality. If you buy from a reputable electronics component retailer or wholesaler make sure you look at what you are buying and see that the connections are correct for what device they interface.
DIY
1. Make a mock-up (Plan) drawing of what you are going to have in the finished positioning of equipment. Use a tape measure to work out how much wire you need for the job and add a few yards for good measure in case you make a mistake. write measurements on your plan that integrate the run of the wire from the amp to the speaker noting length required may not be a direct line. Circle the longest length in all your connecting cables.
2. Cut all your cables to exactly the same length (of the longest 'circled' length') regardless of distance from Amp. Why because you want an Audiophiles excuse to say - just do it. It's important o.k. Note - when looking at AGW wire one cable will have a blue line and the other will be blank. These cables come in Transparent, Black and White. They have identical thickness in turned copper cable. Use the Blue marked cable for Red Plugs or Positive Connection. It will be easy to identify and remember.
3. When buying connectors you must go to your plan and make a shopping list so you buy exactly what you need. This is probably the most confusing part for DIY's, so I suggest you look at your equipment and either get advice on identifying the connector type (banana/lug/bare/pin/RCA/3.4 Mini Jack. 6.5 Jack) - All these are connector plug types and you can buy just one or 100's. There are also a few special connectors for Studio Equipment but they too are available.
4. The trick in managing all this properly is to go to your supermarket an buy a bulk pack 25 plastic sandwich bags. Each bag is going hold a full set of plugs for one connecting end of your cable.
5. You lay out all your cable to the point in your room from the front of the Amp. Starting with the Amp you put a connector set in a bag identifying the front R and mark he bag with a pen FR and tape it to the end of the cable to isolate that cable from the rest. Then do Front L, Front C, Sub Woofer R, Sub Woofer L, Center R, Center L, Back R and Back L (this is for 9.2 system - disregard one sub woofer if it is 9.1 and remove 2 speakers to go back 7.1, and again 5.1). Your Schematics plan will tell you how many cables are required for the job. It's not that complicated really.Generally speaking
6. Setup your soldering iron on a sheet of Masonite to protect the floor or Dining table. This is not a shed job. Open a window - fumes are poisonous. Remove pets and humans who are just a distraction. Put the schematics plan where you can observe it properly for reference but not in the way oif your workspace where it may pose a fire risk. make a space where you can easily get up and move because you are going to be collecting and depositing cable ends as you work to glue (solder) connectors to cable ends.
TOOLS - Wire Stripper - not plyers. Copper Desolder. Solder wire 0.3-0.5 mm or 1/16 inch - approx 1 yard length.
7. Generally speaking all speakers will have a pin connector type setup for bare wire that slots through the center thread and is screwed down to form a snug connection. The second most popular is the Banana plug. Remember these are all mono connectors - One for Right and another for Left.
Each cable should be soldered by the schematic plan in sequence. Why? Because if you need to remember to change something of do something specific you can number the entire set and just remember a single number instead of the procedure. Simplicity is the key to making this job easy.
8. Take the first cable at both ends together and put these on your work bench (not the whole cable). Leave the bags attached. each cable has 2 mono wires that need to be separated maybe up to 2.5 inches lengthwise. Use a knife to cut the separation V between the wires being careful not to cut into either cable. Then use the wire strippers to crimp and cut the plastic sheathing about 1/2inch or 1cm exposing the the copper wire. If you haven't used wire strippers, ask the place where you buy them to show you how they are used or look up a Youtube video to see the aspect of how to 'clean strip' braided cable.
Here is where every non electrician makes a mistake.
Do not touch or be tempted to twist the wire with bare hands. Don't do anything. Your hands have natural oils on them and that will transfer to the copper and put a film over the surface that stuffs up soldering quality. Do not twist the filament it needs to be natural as is.
9. Instead get the soldering iron and heat the copper end of the wire by holding the flat tip against each exposed end against the masonite (not holding it) only 4-10 seconds is required and with the other hand free push the tip end of the rolled out solder onto the copper where it's been heated. Doing so quickly gives you a perfect solid finish on the end of the copper wire because it is absorbed around the filaments. Note you are not connecting the connectors directly. This is a mistake if you think to do so.
10. After completing the first solder on each cable clean up all the stripped rubbish and now repeat from the first set of cable but you are going to use the existing solder on the copper cable ends to join each connector. Use the soldering iron to heat the tip of the wire and push the tip through the connecting blank (flat or curved section behind connector plating. This will be sheathed or hidden on completion. Give you work a quick light tug to check it is soldered solid. Dont be tempted to add more solder to the connection unless it looks bubbled. This process reduces mistakes and poor soldering connection quality. Don't be scared of doing this process. If you have spare cable you can test you skill before doing the real job and you will be comfortable with doing this part and understand what to keep in mind about making clean work of soldering.
If you need further information take a look at Youtube videos showing how to solder and strip wire. These can take the guesswork out of an unclear situation.
Now the Price - If you buy 100 Meters of high quality speaker wire and good gold plated components you will save a few hundred dollars and have equivalently top notch connection. But if you are not up to this - maybe go speak to a few friends to see if they can save your wallet an huge rort. For a 9.2 system (that's your 100 Yrds cable and 40 connectors and a few tools) = DIY price approx or slightly over $170 dollars. Cable around $85 and gold connectors at discount by quantity $1-3 dollars each. Buying the same commercial product Equivalent for 9.2 system = very close to $700 dollars and you still have the job of putting it all together. If you pay someone to build a 9.2 system for you - the cabling alone will be close to $1500 dollars.
