Looking For Amp and Speaker Advice

slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
IMO, power is usually "overrated". I think most AVRs can power most speakers just fine in most living rooms size 18x20x10.

And if the sound isn't good enough, it's something else (lack of bass, placement, source, etc.), not the AVR or lack of power.
Agreed! A TRUE 80W continuous power will be more than enough for 98% of people and 98% of situations.

Even 50W is probably plenty for the 97th percentile.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
IMO, power is usually "overrated". I think most AVRs can power most speakers just fine in most living rooms size 18x20x10.

And if the sound isn't good enough, it's something else (lack of bass, placement, source, etc.), not the AVR or lack of power.
Agree, except there are people who apparently for some reason have to listen at film mixed reference level of 85 dB. Even then their higher mid range AVRs will likely be fine but the lower mid range ones may have trouble coping with the 20 dB peaks found quite frequently in some movies, without clipping. Under such conditions the AVR has to produce 105 dB frequent (relatively speaking), when the user is potentially sitting 12 ft or more in the room size you chose as example.
 
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fmw

Audioholic Ninja
IMO, power is usually "overrated". I think most AVRs can power most speakers just fine in most living rooms size 18x20x10.

And if the sound isn't good enough, it's something else (lack of bass, placement, source, etc.), not the AVR or lack of power.
I find it fascinated how obsessed home audio consumers are about amplifier power. It was an issue in the 1950's when we were using 8 and 10 watt per channel amps. I consider it one of the least important aspects of home audio today.
 
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fmw

Audioholic Ninja
Agree, except there are people who apparently for some reason have to listen at film mixed reference level of 85 dB. Even then their higher mid range AVRs will likely be fine but the lower mid range ones may have trouble coping with the 20 dB peaks found quite frequently in some movies, without clipping. Under such conditions the AVR has to produce 105 dB frequent (relatively speaking), when the user is potentially sitting 12 ft or more in the room size you chose as example.

Assuming the listener has no subwoofer and is sitting in an anechoic chamber.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Assuming the listener has no subwoofer and is sitting in an anechoic chamber.
That seems like a blanket statement that won't hold true for all cases. It will be true for speakers that has 98 dB/W/m speakers but not necessarily for those with below 88 dB/W/m, just as an example. And I am talking about people who listen at 85 dB average sitting 12 ft or further from their speakers while watching movies that have relative frequent peaks, up to 20 dB per film mix standards. I don't come close that so even 10W will cover those peaks for me, but then I have my volume at -20. I know what I would need if I crank it up to 0, my Anthem power amp would be running for cover. Again, I have talking about 20 dB peaks, I have no disagreement with you if we are talking average, or even maximum RMS values.

In addition to calculations, I also took measurements to counter check, so I have the data to back up my example. No doubt no having a subwoofer would be worst, but there is no need to involve anechoic chamber. In the example, 18X20X10 you are not going get a lot of room reinforcement, may be 6 to 9 dB? My room is not even as big as the one ADTG used as example and I . When I took my measurements I also tried different XO, obviously "large", i.e. no sub would be worse. For voltage, I used my Fluke 87 V, that can capture 0.25ms peaks, but will miss anything faster/shorter. For current, my Hioki has an update time on 0.25s so it won't catch the highest peak but the results are still good enough for checking calculated values based on measured peak voltages and assumed impedance.

I do agree with you in general but in terms of facts and figures I standby mine. I remember you said you had taken measurements too. We can share/compare measurement results via PM if you wish.
 
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Steve81

Steve81

Audioholics Five-0
Funny the last 2 to 3% keep popping up here to ask questions.:D
Well, this is Audioholics. You'd expect the name alone is going to tend to draw in folks looking to push the envelope. Doesn't hurt that the head Audioholic rocks 2kW monoblocks in his reference system.

I consider it one of the least important aspects of home audio today.
I don't know if I'd put it like that. Simply, the amount of power you need depends on what you're trying to accomplish. The guy trying to build a reference level capable theater in a well damped 10,000 cubic foot room is going to have different requirements from someone who listens at modest levels in a small den. In my case, 99.9% of the time, I could probably make do with 10W (hell, probably 1W) of amplification as the wife and kids necessitate lower levels. Still, there's that 0.1% of the time where having extra power on tap puts a smile on my face.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Of course, there will always be some exceptions. But for the majority, power isn't the problem. Yet, it seems the majority of people think that power is the problem.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 
F

fmw

Audioholic Ninja
That seems like a blanket statement that won't hold true for all cases. It will be true for speakers that has 98 dB/W/m speakers but not necessarily for those with below 88 dB/W/m, just as an example. And I am talking about people who listen at 85 dB average sitting 12 ft or further from their speakers while watching movies that have relative frequent peaks, up to 20 dB per film mix standards. I don't come close that so even 10W will cover those peaks for me, but then I have my volume at -20. I know what I would need if I crank it up to 0, my Anthem power amp would be running for cover. Again, I have talking about 20 dB peaks, I have no disagreement with you if we are talking average, or even maximum RMS values.

In addition to calculations, I also took measurements to counter check, so I have the data to back up my example. No doubt no having a subwoofer would be worst, but there is no need to involve anechoic chamber. In the example, 18X20X10 you are not going get a lot of room reinforcement, may be 6 to 9 dB? My room is not even as big as the one ADTG used as example and I . When I took my measurements I also tried different XO, obviously "large", i.e. no sub would be worse. For voltage, I used my Fluke 87 V, that can capture 0.25ms peaks, but will miss anything faster/shorter. For current, my Hioki has an update time on 0.25s so it won't catch the highest peak but the results are still good enough for checking calculated values based on measured peak voltages and assumed impedance.

I do agree with you in general but in terms of facts and figures I standby mine. I remember you said you had taken measurements too. We can share/compare measurement results via PM if you wish.
In my 18X20 family room and 11' listening distance and 88db speakers, my normal listening level is 75 db. The highest peak I have recorded dissipates 18 watts without the subwoofer. I don't remember the name of the movie but it is a scene in which Vin Diesel skis down a slope chased by by a roaring avalanche. 95 db. If my normal level were 10 db greater I would require around 140 watts for the same peak. Add the subwoofer and I would need significantly less. That is calculated, not measured. Your room could have less boundary gain than mine and require even more power dissipation. I can only give you numbers from my own room. But the point is that, if you have a subwoofer, you should be able to blow yourself out of the room with virtually any modern AV receiver.

I can't imagine being comfortable at 85 db listening level but others might. People seem to rely on the internet calculators and they don't figure the boundary gain. They can't, of course, because they have no way to know what it is without a measurement.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
In my 18X20 family room and 11' listening distance and 88db speakers, my normal listening level is 75 db. The highest peak I have recorded dissipates 18 watts without the subwoofer. I don't remember the name of the movie but it is a scene in which Vin Diesel skis down a slope chased by by a roaring avalanche. 95 db. If my normal level were 10 db greater I would require around 140 watts for the same peak. Add the subwoofer and I would need significantly less. That is calculated, not measured. Your room could have less boundary gain than mine and require even more power dissipation. I can only give you numbers from my own room. But the point is that, if you have a subwoofer, you should be able to blow yourself out of the room with virtually any modern AV receiver.

I can't imagine being comfortable at 85 db listening level but others might. People seem to rely on the internet calculators and they don't figure the boundary gain. They can't, of course, because they have no way to know what it is without a measurement.
First of all, thank you for sharing your data.

I took measurements during the Spiderman 3 scene where the crane was tearing the building apart and got the following results:

Volume: -20, Audyssey XT32 on DEQ off
Crossovers for L/R : 80 Hz
Sub: SVS PC12U, PB13U
All measurements were taken from the left channel only

Recorded highest voltage 6.063V, I had it set to record peak in order to get the fastest capture rate of 250 micro second.

Recorded highest current 1.6A, I had it set to record maximum and display peaks

The recorded "Max" RMS values were much lower, about 1/3 to 1/4 but measuring RMS V and I precludes the selection of Fast and Peak and that results in slower response therefore potentially missing the highest peaks that Seth was on about in some of his post.

So my recorded highest peak power in VA = V X I = 6.063X1.6 = 9.7VA, that's not watt, watt would obviously be slightly less but as far as the amp is concern, it still has to deliver the current whether that translates into real power or not. Just for ease of illustration, let's just call it 10W.

So now you know full well if I turn the volume to 0, and if everything remain linear, my amp will have to cope with a whopping 1000VA or 1000W just for simplicity. I did not check SPL with my RS meter but I did similar measurements using Jurrasic world a few days before and was in fact getting about 20 dB peaks during the loudest scene. I am not assuming they would be the same or almost the same but I am too busy to go back and measure it now.

The fact is, I typically set my volume to -20, that measns I only need 10W, or 100W if I go up to -10. I have never watched any movie at -10 but I have occasionally crank it up to -18 to -15 top. So like you, I have much more power reserve than I would ever need in my room even if I set my speakers to large. However, the fact remains that even with the help of all my subs (total of 5) and power amps, if I were to set the volume to 0, I can't say clipping can be avoided, albeit for very few and short moments.

Again, I do agree with you that most people have power they want and don't need. I am only trying to make the point that there are people who claim they enjoy listening at reference level and not all of them have Klipsch speakers and multiple subwoofers. Having said that, you and I both know in the real world those people likely have speakers that cannot handle 1000W peak without producing audible distortions or becoming compressed anyway, so in the end it could all be moot.
 
F

fmw

Audioholic Ninja
Yes power requirements increase very rapidly with SPL. I think that is what causes the fear among audiophiles. What they fail to understand is that their average power dissipation is most likely less than 1 watt per channel so a 100 watt amplifier power capacity has quite a way to go before it starts running out of gas. I don't enjoy going to movie theaters because i don't like wearing earplugs. But that is just me, I guess.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Yes power requirements increase very rapidly with SPL. I think that is what causes the fear among audiophiles. What they fail to understand is that their average power dissipation is most likely less than 1 watt per channel so a 100 watt amplifier power capacity has quite a way to go before it starts running out of gas. I don't enjoy going to movie theaters because i don't like wearing earplugs. But that is just me, I guess.
I am actually considering wearing plugs when I go watch Star War, hopefully soon. Put it that way, I will bring some just in case. It may still be enjoyable if I wear them loosely.
 
H

HipSonic

Junior Audioholic
My dedicated theater room is 30×25×11, with 5 rows of seats. I am currently running a Pioneer Elite SC85 AVR, with Infinity Classia tower speakers, matching dipole surrounds and to Velodyne subs, and unfortunately I constantly have to crank the volume to -10 just to hear dialogue in movies being played from an Oppo BDP 103D. Streaming or playing music isn't nearly as bad, yet the poor experience with my movies, plus being a little more educated, prompted the upgrades and start of this thread. The Infinity speakers aren't that efficient, I believe around 85 or 86db, that said I know that the T1's are easily a step above at 93db. However, from what I've been reading, I was under the impression that whatever amp I purchased, in addition to being stable down to at least 4 ohms, also needed to be at least one half times more powerful than the speakers they are powering to provide headroom and avoid clipping. As I am not an engineer by trade nor do I like wasting money, I humbly turn to the forum to help me separate truth from the snake oil. I do like my music and movies loud and I prefer them that way with out having to turn my volume knob until it snaps and without distortion.
 
F

fmw

Audioholic Ninja
My dedicated theater room is 30×25×11, with 5 rows of seats. I am currently running a Pioneer Elite SC85 AVR, with Infinity Classia tower speakers, matching dipole surrounds and to Velodyne subs, and unfortunately I constantly have to crank the volume to -10 just to hear dialogue in movies being played from an Oppo BDP 103D. Streaming or playing music isn't nearly as bad, yet the poor experience with my movies, plus being a little more educated, prompted the upgrades and start of this thread. The Infinity speakers aren't that efficient, I believe around 85 or 86db, that said I know that the T1's are easily a step above at 93db. However, from what I've been reading, I was under the impression that whatever amp I purchased, in addition to being stable down to at least 4 ohms, also needed to be at least one half times more powerful than the speakers they are powering to provide headroom and avoid clipping. As I am not an engineer by trade nor do I like wasting money, I humbly turn to the forum to help me separate truth from the snake oil. I do like my music and movies loud and I prefer them that way with out having to turn my volume knob until it snaps and without distortion.
Why not just increase your center channel level relative to the other channels? That's what I do.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
My dedicated theater room is 30×25×11, with 5 rows of seats. I am currently running a Pioneer Elite SC85 AVR, with Infinity Classia tower speakers, matching dipole surrounds and to Velodyne subs, and unfortunately I constantly have to crank the volume to -10 just to hear dialogue in movies being played from an Oppo BDP 103D. Streaming or playing music isn't nearly as bad, yet the poor experience with my movies, plus being a little more educated, prompted the upgrades and start of this thread. The Infinity speakers aren't that efficient, I believe around 85 or 86db, that said I know that the T1's are easily a step above at 93db. However, from what I've been reading, I was under the impression that whatever amp I purchased, in addition to being stable down to at least 4 ohms, also needed to be at least one half times more powerful than the speakers they are powering to provide headroom and avoid clipping. As I am not an engineer by trade nor do I like wasting money, I humbly turn to the forum to help me separate truth from the snake oil. I do like my music and movies loud and I prefer them that way with out having to turn my volume knob until it snaps and without distortion.
I find that for movies, Dynamic Range Compression helps to smooth out the high vs low volumes on the movie material. That way I can turn it up high enough to easily hear dialogue, but not blow out the windows when the sub hits.

I would not trust ANY specs published by GE! Those guys are notorious for embellishing the specs! Go by 3rd party measurements.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
My dedicated theater room is 30×25×11, with 5 rows of seats. I am currently running a Pioneer Elite SC85 AVR, with Infinity Classia tower speakers, matching dipole surrounds and to Velodyne subs, and unfortunately I constantly have to crank the volume to -10 just to hear dialogue in movies being played from an Oppo BDP 103D. Streaming or playing music isn't nearly as bad, yet the poor experience with my movies, plus being a little more educated, prompted the upgrades and start of this thread. The Infinity speakers aren't that efficient, I believe around 85 or 86db, that said I know that the T1's are easily a step above at 93db. However, from what I've been reading, I was under the impression that whatever amp I purchased, in addition to being stable down to at least 4 ohms, also needed to be at least one half times more powerful than the speakers they are powering to provide headroom and avoid clipping. As I am not an engineer by trade nor do I like wasting money, I humbly turn to the forum to help me separate truth from the snake oil. I do like my music and movies loud and I prefer them that way with out having to turn my volume knob until it snaps and without distortion.
I am not familiar with MCACC so to figure out how much power you need the following information are needed:

- Distance of the last two rows from your main listening position to your L/R/C speakers.
- The SPL base on C weighting, when you feel it is loud enough for you from your listening position and note the volume setting to achieve that SPL, preferably using the relative scale which I believe is -80 to +12 for the SC-85.
- Model/specs of the speakers you would like us to base our figures on, in trying to figure out how much power you may need.
 
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mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
My dedicated theater room is 30×25×11, with 5 rows of seats. I am currently running a Pioneer Elite SCR85 AVR, with Infinity Classia tower speakers, matching dipole surrounds and to Velodyne subs, and unfortunately I constantly have to crank the volume to -10 just to hear dialogue in movies being played from an Oppo BDP 103D. Streaming or playing music isn't nearly as bad, yet the poor experience with my movies, plus being a little more educated, prompted the upgrades and start of this thread. The Infinity speakers aren't that efficient, I believe around 85 or 86db, that said I know that the T1's are easily a step above at 93db. However, from what I've been reading, I was under the impression that whatever amp I purchased, in addition to being stable down to at least 4 ohms, also needed to be at least one half times more powerful than the speakers they are powering to provide headroom and avoid clipping. As I am not an engineer by trade nor do I like wasting money, I humbly turn to the forum to help me separate truth from the snake oil. I do like my music and movies loud and I prefer them that way with out having to turn my volume knob until it snaps and without distortion.
That is a pretty large space you are trying to have speakers and amps give it justice.
5 rows may require more than a pair on the side walls.
You need a much higher sensitive speakers to do the job.
I would also consider multiple subs.

Did you level match all your channels with an SPL meter? Which row?
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
That is a pretty large space you are trying to have speakers and amps give it justice.
5 rows may require more than a pair on the side walls.
You need a much higher sensitive speakers to do the job.
I would also consider multiple subs.

Did you level match all your channels with an SPL meter? Which row?
I agree it is a large space, but he is talking about Triton One that has 1600 watt built-in subwoofer power, 92 dB sensitivity, recommended amp 20-600wpc. In a Stereophile review, the reviewer said "Rated at 70Wpc but generally known to produce about 90W, the MC275LE had more than enough power to drive these speakers to levels that were about as high as I could tolerate."

Read more at http://www.stereophile.com/content/goldenear-technology-triton-one-loudspeaker#xyHwRh6Y2bBj9gUu.99

Let's assume everything (GE specs and the Stereophile reviewer) get exaggerated a little, as alluded to by slipperybidness, still, imagine how loud they can get if driven by even a 300 wpc amp?

The OP said "I do like my music and movies loud....", I think the key is what SPL at the back rows would he consider as "loud" will determine whether there is an amp that can do the job for him.
 
H

HipSonic

Junior Audioholic
I did not use an SPL meter, all measurements were based on the MCACC of my Pioneer with the mic placed at the third row approximately 18 to 20 ft away from the LCR speakers. Also I am currently deploying two Velodyne subs. I'd like to thank PENG for providing the specs for the T1's as I have yet to purchase the them, and there for can't measures them with my current set up. Also some where it got lost in the thread that I was actually asking which would be better of two amps to pair with the T1's the Crown XLS 2502's with an Emotiva XPA 5 powering the surrounds or the 7 channel Cineova Grande which is rated at 1000w per channel.
 
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