Added Vinyl- looking for input, suggestions, monkey jokes, etc.

[adwilk]

In looking at the manual, I saw that it has a muting circuit that is activated when the reject mechanism is operating.

Did you press the Start button? If not, do that when you play an album and see if you hear the music through the system.

If that doesn't help, you'll need to return the cam gear to its normal position and cycle the mechanism. Once it returns the tonearm to its rest, immobilize the mechanism and remove the cam.

Ok.. pressed the start button- nothing. Put the cam back in, it works just fine. Removed the cam.. nothing again. I'm not sure what you mean by the rest of that stuff. But I tried what I thought would be a cycle and still nothing.

 

[adwilk]

I can't tell for sure on the manual. However it should be straight forward. You can either trace the wiring from the base of the PU arm, or form the signal wiring exciting the plinth.

The switch will be at that connection, between the two. It can't be anywhere else.

I'm not super worried about sounding like a moron anymore so what does this switch look like? I don't even know what I'm looking for.

 

[adwilk]

Next, would be to disable the muting circuit. If you can solder, you can do this. In the link below, you'll see two photos- the bottom one shows the circuit board with the muting circuit near the lower right (it has one corner as an angle and has a metal shield over it. At the bottom center, it shows the audio cables coming up and bending, to go to this board.

I can solder. I'll look at this option. My assumption is that I'm going to solder what leads to that board with what leaves that board bypassing it all together?

 

[TLS Guy]

I can solder. I'll look at this option. My assumption is that I'm going to solder what leads to that board with what leaves that board bypassing it all together?

The problem is that when there is no sound, then the grounds are connected to live. In electrical jargon this is switch contacts closed (shorted) circuit. When you have sound, then the contacts are open circuit. (signal passes through).

To make sure you don't have trouble down the road, I would use a standoff strip like this.

You can order them here.

So, trace the arm wiring to this switch and unsolder the arm wires and the leads from the switch.

Find a suitable place to bolt one of those standoffs to the chassis and then solder the 8 leads to the standoffs, to make a reliable permanent connection.

Now pick up wires are frail and trying to strip the insulation can damage the wires.

The best thing to do it to get a lighter and burn the ends of the wire and then the burnt insulation will crumble in your fingers and you have a nice clean wire to solder.

You are not a moron at all. You are doing very well. A project like this is a really good way to learn new skills and gain experience. If you keep your heard and continue to ask questions, you will end up with a very nice unit. We can guide you there, I'm certain. This turntable is worth the effort. In the end it will sound a lot better then it has done in the whole of its life.

 

[highfigh]

I can't tell for sure on the manual. However it should be straight forward. You can either trace the wiring from the base of the PU arm, or form the signal wiring exciting the plinth.

The switch will be at that connection, between the two. It can't be anywhere else.

It's a relay, but the manufacturer's part number isn't shown

Ok.. pressed the start button- nothing. Put the cam back in, it works just fine. Removed the cam.. nothing again. I'm not sure what you mean by the rest of that stuff. But I tried what I thought would be a cycle and still nothing.

You had audio with the cam in place?

The mute is activated by one of the pieces that slides when the tonearm starts to move through the lead-out groove at the end of the LP. If the slides are between positions, it will act like the tonearm has reached the end of the side.

As I wrote, the manual doesn't show the actual part number for the muting relay, so it's hard to know the pin configuration, other than the output. It doesn't show the tonearm wires in the schematic or the diagram for the circuit board where the relay is mounted. This is where you can help all of us who don't read German- if you would remove the turntable from the base, remove the metal shield from the circuit board and shoot some clear photos, we can tell you where the connections need to be made and the photos and instructions can be stickied for others to access.

The manual is in the Downloads section of this link- please save it and open it, so you can see where the circuit board is located. Scroll to the bottom of the manual- the photo is at the end of the manual and the board is in the lower right, with the audio cables attached. You'll also see the four thin tonearm wires, grouped in a flat cable.

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/dual/cs-626.shtml

 

[highfigh]

I can solder. I'll look at this option. My assumption is that I'm going to solder what leads to that board with what leaves that board bypassing it all together?

Yes- you'll be bypassing the circuit.

These are good turntables and definitely worth the effort. Yours looks like it's in excellent condition and it should last a long time.

 

[adwilk]

I just spent over an hour trying to get the table out. I'm frustrated, but I loosened one screw that will require me to get in if I want it to work properly. I'll try again tomorrow. I can't tell what it hangs up on after I immobilize it.

 

[TLS Guy]

I just spent over an hour trying to get the table out. I'm frustrated, but I loosened one screw that will require me to get in if I want it to work properly. I'll try again tomorrow. I can't tell what it hangs up on after I immobilize it.

Just back the screw off. They do not come out. They do not go though complete holes but Us on the edge of the plinth.

Once loose, lift the deck a little up from the plinth, not too hard, so the screws are pulled tight. Now use a flat blade below the deck to push the part of the screw below the deck away from the edge of the plinth. Do this with all the mounting screws and the deck will lift off the plinth.

 

[highfigh]

I just spent over an hour trying to get the table out. I'm frustrated, but I loosened one screw that will require me to get in if I want it to work properly. I'll try again tomorrow. I can't tell what it hangs up on after I immobilize it.

Did you download the manual?

Watch this video- not the same model and yours has a third screw, but the procedure is the same.

 

[highfigh]

FYI- the three screws that are loosened for removing the table from the base are also used to secure the table if you should ever need to transport or ship the turntable. Once they're loose and you can lift them, you would compress one of the springs and turn it counter-clockwise, as if you were loosening it. Once the left-hand thread engages, continue until the screw is finger-tight, then repeat for the other two. Use a penny or dime to go another 1/4 turn and it will no longer bounce. I always used a twist-tie to make sure the tonearm couldn't come loose but it's also a good idea to remove the counter-weight and platter, if the platter doesn't have a clip to hold it in place.

 

[adwilk]

Did you download the manual?

Watch this video- not the same model and yours has a third screw, but the procedure is the same.

That isn't working for this one. I have those screws exactly like that and I can't get the table out of the base. Theres another smaller screw near the tone arm that just spins and spins and I think that might be the culprit. I've been looking through the manual. I'm sure I'll get it figured out. I'll definitely take lots of photos.

 

[highfigh]

That isn't working for this one. I have those screws exactly like that and I can't get the table out of the base. Theres another smaller screw near the tone arm that just spins and spins and I think that might be the culprit. I've been looking through the manual. I'm sure I'll get it figured out. I'll definitely take lots of photos.

Is that screw just above the knob with I and an infinity symbol? That's one of the three that needs to be pushed in, to allow the screw to slide out of the slot. If you look at Pg 15 of the manual, you'll see three raised U-shaped areas in the base, each with a slot. Those are where the transport screws fit and keep the table from lifting out in normal operation. As long as you can lift the three screws with the + in the head, they'll be free to be pushed out of the slots. You only need to do this to two of them- once they're out of the way, you can just lift the table out.

If there was only a video of this model.....

 

[adwilk]

Ok.. I got it apart last night. Once I got it out of the base, it was very simple to figure out what "switched" the muting circuit and I was able to keep in the position I needed it and the table works. I do think it might still be better to bypass the circuit alltogether since it is actually in the signal line. Link to photos: http://imgur.com/a/TzJPq

 

[TLS Guy]

Ok.. I got it apart last night. Once I got it out of the base, it was very simple to figure out what "switched" the muting circuit and I was able to keep in the position I needed it and the table works. I do think it might still be better to bypass the circuit alltogether since it is actually in the signal line. Link to photos: http://imgur.com/a/TzJPq

Well done! You are just about home free.

As I suggested, I would bypass the mute switch and keep the signal path as straight as possible.

Using the standoffs I suggested, or similar, will do the trick nicely.

 

[adwilk]

Standoff strips should be here shortly. I guess I need to start looking around for a decent cartridge upgrade.

I also now have the technics table (SL-Q200)- it, too, has the automatic arm. Should I look to disable or remove it as well. I actually like that table a little better I think and it has more cartridge options.

 

[adwilk]

I'm really liking the Technics table. Its a little bit less laid back than the Dual at this point. The really high material sounds clearer. The Dual makes me want to boost the treble a bit. Still on the hunt for a cartridge for it. Highfigh is an ortofon dealer? If I order one, I'd be happy to order if from you since you've been so helpful.

The Technics table is in what I would consider mint condition and has a Shure cartridge but I haven't had much luck in figuring out what it is. It looks brand new as well. I'm not sure this thing got much use.

Listening to some Nickelcreek

 

[highfigh]

I'm really liking the Technics table. Its a little bit less laid back than the Dual at this point. The really high material sounds clearer. The Dual makes me want to boost the treble a bit. Still on the hunt for a cartridge for it. Highfigh is an ortofon dealer? If I order one, I'd be happy to order if from you since you've been so helpful.

The Technics table is in what I would consider mint condition and has a Shure cartridge but I haven't had much luck in figuring out what it is. It looks brand new as well. I'm not sure this thing got much use.

Listening to some Nickelcreek

Actually, the Dual has more cartridge options because it has the clip with two screws that are 1/2" apart, while the Technics has the P-mount style of cartridge. The manufacturers put more effort (AKA money) into the 1/2" mount cartridges.

What are you using for a preamp/receiver? Does it have a Moving Coil section in the phono preamp?

The lack of highs could be due to several factors, cartridge alignment being one of them, the cartridge itself being another. I don't remember seeing any reference to the make/model of the cartridge on the Dual- what is it?

 

[Adam]

I'm not super worried about sounding like a moron anymore...

Anymore?



I admit that I have been, still am, and will continue to be too lazy to read through this entire thread. Congrats on the new turntable, though, and I hope that you enjoy your vinyl! Records, that is...

I'd like your post with the pictures, but I just can't promote any images from your place that don't show the putting green. Okay, I guess I'll "like" it, but just know that it was with hesitation.