Locking HDMI Cables - Good or Bad????

[rivrbyte]

Locking HDMI Cables - Good or Bad????


I've had a multitude of issues with my YAMAHA RECIEVER RX-V475, which I bought at FRY'S, along with a 6.1 Surround sound speakers, I bought at my local Hsu Sound Speaker Company.

I have the 46' TV mounted on wall, with an In-wall CL2 certified 24G 12' HDMI Cable. Monoprice.


After constantly fighting with the signal loss, I went back to FRY'S, and since I had a one year warranty left, they exchanged the older unit, with a brand new Yamaha RX-V675....


After hooking this one up, same exact problem. So I know after having issues with both AV receivers, this problem is not the receivers themselves, but has to be with the HDMI cable male end.


I even replaced this cable with another from Monoprice, but still, the same issues.


I actually only need 10' ft. So maybe my problem is because it's braided, and that extra length is causing my HDMI cable to constantly lose it's signal, and I have to spend between 6 and 10 times per hour, ever slowly, moving the cable at the TV-IN Port, until I get a signal again...VERY FRUSTRATING! It's too stiff, in the back.


I contacted a place that sells locking HDMI cables, they told me that the only length they have to go in-wall, starts at 16' feet. Their 10' ft. is only a standard utility cable, and not rated for in-wall application.

Yamaha told me the shorter run the better, to help against degradation of the signal. (similar to speaker run lengths)

and to go get a standard 10' ft.HDMI Cable....SHOULD I BE CONCERNED WITH OVERHEATING, AND STARTING A FIRE IN THE WALL? I am not sure how hot these standard cables get, but again, I'm worried about the heat.


So, for an application with a mounted 46'' TV, with a distance run of needed 10', with the cable hidden inside the wall, and the only type of HDMI cable, that will help stop this problem, are LOCKING HDMI'S, which would you recommend? (Sorry, Monster Cable is not in my budget)

Thank You

 

[KEW]

I recently had trouble with an HDMI sliding out of the socket too easily on a Denon AVR-1712.
Solved by buying a thin HDMI cable. The cable is pliable enough so as to not have any cable strain at the junction.

HDMI cables are data cables with low voltage. I believe the in-wall rating means they have a tough sheath so as not to be too easily damaged by a nail or screw going into wall, etc.
I used a standard cable in-wall because I doubt anyone would be plunging a saw there and it is not so difficult to replace the cable (in my situation) if they did.

 

[j_garcia]

Monster cable is overpriced (*cough* garbage) anyway, so you don't need to worry about them being in your budget. Go with Monoprice, Parts Express or the cheap ones from www.Bluejeanscable.com


Fire won't be a problem with a low voltage cable, but locking HDMI are a bad idea in my book. If you put strain on them, they will subsequently damage the device instead of the cable. I wouldn't use them.

 

[Alex2507]

I believe the in-wall rating means they have a tough sheath so as not to be too easily damaged by a nail or screw going into wall, etc.

The in wall rating doesn't make it screw or nail proof at all. It's about how that cable responds to heat and flame ... I think. But for sure they ain't got a cable I can't drive a screw through. Same goes for copper pipe. Of this I am quite certain. I've got a few Series-FE that work all the time, no matter what and I have some cheapos that I gotta wiggle once in a while. As always, BJC FTW.

 

[TLS Guy]

Locking HDMI Cables - Good or Bad????


I've had a multitude of issues with my YAMAHA RECIEVER RX-V475, which I bought at FRY'S, along with a 6.1 Surround sound speakers, I bought at my local Hsu Sound Speaker Company.

I have the 46' TV mounted on wall, with an In-wall CL2 certified 24G 12' HDMI Cable. Monoprice.


After constantly fighting with the signal loss, I went back to FRY'S, and since I had a one year warranty left, they exchanged the older unit, with a brand new Yamaha RX-V675....


After hooking this one up, same exact problem. So I know after having issues with both AV receivers, this problem is not the receivers themselves, but has to be with the HDMI cable male end.


I even replaced this cable with another from Monoprice, but still, the same issues.


I actually only need 10' ft. So maybe my problem is because it's braided, and that extra length is causing my HDMI cable to constantly lose it's signal, and I have to spend between 6 and 10 times per hour, ever slowly, moving the cable at the TV-IN Port, until I get a signal again...VERY FRUSTRATING! It's too stiff, in the back.


I contacted a place that sells locking HDMI cables, they told me that the only length they have to go in-wall, starts at 16' feet. Their 10' ft. is only a standard utility cable, and not rated for in-wall application.

Yamaha told me the shorter run the better, to help against degradation of the signal. (similar to speaker run lengths)

and to go get a standard 10' ft.HDMI Cable....SHOULD I BE CONCERNED WITH OVERHEATING, AND STARTING A FIRE IN THE WALL? I am not sure how hot these standard cables get, but again, I'm worried about the heat.


So, for an application with a mounted 46'' TV, with a distance run of needed 10', with the cable hidden inside the wall, and the only type of HDMI cable, that will help stop this problem, are LOCKING HDMI'S, which would you recommend? (Sorry, Monster Cable is not in my budget)

Thank You

This is NOT the receiver or the cable but the TV. Almost certainly one of two things has happened. Either the HDMI socket on the TV is damaged or the circuit board the socket is attached to is damaged. When you wiggle the cable then the circuit makes contact for a while. Unfortunately the whole board that socket is attached two will have to be replaced. This may well cost more to repair than a new TV depending on the value and quality of the TV you have.

 

[Tyreman]

You mention moving cable at tv in port so thats the issue the as mentioned by previous poster.
So tv repair but check the cost 1st

 

[RichB]

I know that should always debug computer and audio problems with cable changes because it is cheap and a likely source of problem.
Never the less, I continually forget to do so

I highly recommend Monoprice Redmere cables which are active and are much thinner.
As a result, they put no strain on the HDMI connectors. All my cables have been replaced.

- Rich

 

[Alex2507]

I just tracked down and eliminated a bad cable. It worked from the laptop tp the Oppo HDMI Switch ... mostly ... a little finicky about the angle of the dangle. I went to use it on a Denon DVD-1920 and no go. A cheap $10 12' replacement later and I was good to go. Now the HDMI Out from my rec'r is also sometimes finicky.

Eventually it's all going to be BJC and that should be the end of that ... but for now I at least got the sh!t up and running. I thought it was the hdmi out on the player at first or maybe the input on the rec'r. What a pain.

 

[tyhjaarpa]

Sounds like the weight of cable turns it out from connecting. Could you use cable tie or duck tape on back of your tv to take the weight of cable? That way the weight is taken away from connection and it should stay in place. Could be damaged port as well, but this is easy to try out.

 

[RichB]

A cheap $10 12' replacement later and I was good to go. Now the HDMI Out from my rec'r is also sometimes finicky.

One more time with feeling, you should try one of these:

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=9890&seq=1&format=2

They are the thickness of an apple charging cable. Small devices like the Roku or Apple TV are no longer lifted off the table.

Here are the pictures of the cables on the back of my AVR before and after RedMere.

- Rich

 

[macddmac]

24 gauge is overkill for a 12' cable and very stiff, likely contributing to your signal dropouts.
like rich b, I'd go for the red mere.
For in wall, go for this one:
http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025501
Cheers,Mac

 

[rnatalli]

I agree with the others. Monoprice Redmere is the way to go.