What Grinds My Gears

[Swerd]

It's time for another steam-venting rant .

Today, the weather was decent, and for several weeks I've been reminding myself to clean off all the cobwebs and dead bugs on my front porch lights. A few years ago I put in new light fixtures, started using CFL bulbs and a timer switch to keep it on all night. So the bugs and spiders set up residence.

It looks like this http://www.amazon.com/Kichler-Lighting-9033RZ-Courtyard-Incandescent/dp/B000PW8GU4.

Removing the lower part of the fixture with the glass panes from the upper half requires taking out 2 screws. They're little and are mounted upside down to keep rain out. It was a bit difficult to take them apart, but to put them back up requires 3 hands. One to hold the glass fixture, one to hold the tiny screw and one to hold the screw driver. (In case you wondered, they are Phillips head.) There was enough loose play in the fixtures so those damn threads didn't engage easily. I have two of these lamps, and I got 3 of those little screws in, but dropped the last one. And it disappeared – vanished from the material realm – vaporized – never to be seen again. I spent 10 or 15 minutes on my hands & knees looking for it without any luck. Of course the screw is the same dark finish as the rest of the lamp.

OK, I still have the other screw. How hard can it be to find another rustproof screw like it? Down in the basement, I have the usual odds and ends collected after many years. I found two brass machine screws, #8/32 that were either ¼" or 3/8" long. They even had hex nuts. These screws didn't quite fit in the light fixture, and the nut fit loosely on the remaining light fixture screw. OK, it might be metric. I looked it up on wikipedia, and #8 machine screws are slightly larger than 4 mm. So the lamp must take M4 screws.

Off to the hardware store I go. Not Home Depot or Lowes, but I decided to go to the last real hardware store in the area. That actually paid off because some guy who knew his merchandise helped me find things. It turned out that the brass machine screws that came with the light fixture had neither English or Metric threads. It was classic Chinese Knock-Off. I ended up buying an assortment of #8/32 and M4 screws, in stainless steel, with various heads that take Allen wrenches instead of those cursed Phillip's heads. I even bought two Allen wrenches to be sure I could drive them in. It all cost $11 – not bad at all.

After getting home, I tried putting the lamp back together. It was a struggle as none of the screws could thread. So I picked one that used the longest Allen wrench and torqued that sucker in. The lamp housing is aluminum. And that's the last time I ever try to remove those tiny upside-down screws. It took me over 4 hours to clean off some damn dead bugs and spider webs. I'm angry and disgusted.

So let's hear it for those damned American manufacturers who rushed to move their factories to China. They ignored manufacturing standards, proper design, and quality control, and raised their prices.

 

[Adam]

I just learned a new trick. Before when I'd lose something, I'd be upset at myself. From now on, I'm going to blame American industry and China.



Sorry your day was frustrating, Richard. I hate it when stuff is more difficult than it should be. Time to grab yourself a beer.

 

[TLS Guy]

It's time for another steam-venting rant .

Today, the weather was decent, and for several weeks I've been reminding myself to clean off all the cobwebs and dead bugs on my front porch lights. A few years ago I put in new light fixtures, started using CFL bulbs and a timer switch to keep it on all night. So the bugs and spiders set up residence.

It looks like this http://www.amazon.com/Kichler-Lighting-9033RZ-Courtyard-Incandescent/dp/B000PW8GU4.

Removing the lower part of the fixture with the glass panes from the upper half requires taking out 2 screws. They're little and are mounted upside down to keep rain out. It was a bit difficult to take them apart, but to put them back up requires 3 hands. One to hold the glass fixture, one to hold the tiny screw and one to hold the screw driver. (In case you wondered, they are Phillips head.) There was enough loose play in the fixtures so those damn threads didn't engage easily. I have two of these lamps, and I got 3 of those little screws in, but dropped the last one. And it disappeared – vanished from the material realm – vaporized – never to be seen again. I spent 10 or 15 minutes on my hands & knees looking for it without any luck. Of course the screw is the same dark finish as the rest of the lamp.

OK, I still have the other screw. How hard can it be to find another rustproof screw like it? Down in the basement, I have the usual odds and ends collected after many years. I found two brass machine screws, #8/32 that were either ¼" or 3/8" long. They even had hex nuts. These screws didn't quite fit in the light fixture, and the nut fit loosely on the remaining light fixture screw. OK, it might be metric. I looked it up on wikipedia, and #8 machine screws are slightly larger than 4 mm. So the lamp must take M4 screws.

Off to the hardware store I go. Not Home Depot or Lowes, but I decided to go to the last real hardware store in the area. That actually paid off because some guy who knew his merchandise helped me find things. It turned out that the brass machine screws that came with the light fixture had neither English or Metric threads. It was classic Chinese Knock-Off. I ended up buying an assortment of #8/32 and M4 screws, in stainless steel, with various heads that take Allen wrenches instead of those cursed Phillip's heads. I even bought two Allen wrenches to be sure I could drive them in. It all cost $11 – not bad at all.

After getting home, I tried putting the lamp back together. It was a struggle as none of the screws could thread. So I picked one that used the longest Allen wrench and torqued that sucker in. The lamp housing is aluminum. And that's the last time I ever try to remove those tiny upside-down screws. It took me over 4 hours to clean off some damn dead bugs and spider webs. I'm angry and disgusted.

So let's hear it for those damned American manufacturers who rushed to move their factories to China. They ignored manufacturing standards, proper design, and quality control, and raised their prices.

That is typical, and why on the whole I wish the Chinese would stay in bed. You need to add to your tool kit a tap set, so you can tap a new thread. You are lucky you did not split out the aluminum. If I had done that, it would have split out for sure!

 

[3db]

I ALWAYS said that off shoring was the worst thing ever done to the North American economy. A very small percentage of the population benefits from off shoring...corporate elite scum bags. I'm totally with you on this Swerd.

 

[Alex2507]

Those lights, weren't you cursing putting them in?

Mark is right about the tap thing. It's a very cool trick to have up your sleeve.

 

[Swerd]

I just learned a new trick. Before when I'd lose something, I'd be upset at myself. From now on, I'm going to blame American industry and China.



Sorry your day was frustrating, Richard. I hate it when stuff is more difficult than it should be. Time to grab yourself a beer.

Gulden Draak 9000 Excellent

That is typical, and why on the whole I wish the Chinese would stay in bed. You need to add to your tool kit a tap set, so you can tap a new thread. You are lucky you did not split out the aluminum. If I had done that, it would have split out for sure!

I will definitely look into a tap set. I may very well have split it while driving in the new screw.

Should I be looking for anything in particular in a tap set?

I just spent a few minutes looking at tap & die sets on Amazon… and the most important question is how do I find a set that isn't made in China?

 

[Alex2507]

If you want a set go to Harbor Freight. I can't believe I said it. They sell this cute little set for like 10 bucks. The taps have drill bits on them like self tapping screws. The only reason I mention them is that Greene Lee, a reputable tool manufacturer for electricians has rebadged the cheapo set and charge 30 bucks and guess what: they all break the same.

Your best bet is HD and just getting the 8/32 size you need. It comes with the appropriate bit and costs 5 bucks from a company called Hanson. That's how I do it for installing door hardware. Oil your taps and clean out the grooves. You're going to need a handle as well. My next one is going to be a ratcheting job. Usually I just throw the tap into a drill and pray it doesn't snap but I don't think you should.

Now this will sound a little strange but wear safety glasses. I remember the first time a #7 drill bit snapped sending a shard into my lip. Getting a lip to quit bleeding seems impossible until you get to cold water, btw.

 

[Rickster71]

I've installed a light or two over the years and keep one of these in my tool bucket:
http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/6-1-tapping-tool

 

[Alex2507]

Oops! The tap is made by Irwin.

This is what you need.

I used a tap to modify and attach my center channel shelf. While I was doing that I felt like the master of my universe. I could do anything! I was going to use locktight but it seemed like too much added work and likely unnecessary.

On the topic of grinding gears: "You're a man. You're not use to communicating". Many other words followed those but all I could hear in my head was 'yeah, it's 'cause I spend all my time listening'. I didn't say those words and was eventually met with a, "why are you laughing"? When they're sexist it's really kind of funny but when we're sexist, not so much. But she's right, communicating my thoughts at that moment would not have benefited me or her for that matter. Gotta keep that sh!t bottled up.

 

[Alex2507]

I've installed a light or two over the years and keep one of these in my tool bucket:
http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/6-1-tapping-tool

I think HD started selling those too. For me those are impractical due to the length of the tap by the time I get to the size I need ... but I don't install many lights. I still want one though.

 

[herbu]

Gulden Draak 9000 Excellent

Is that a Chinese dragon on the beer bottle?

 

[TLS Guy]

Richard,
I have had a lot of stuff in my tool cases for years, as I'm an old geezer. I don't know where it came from. I get good tools from ACME. They don't have junk. Round here they are in Grand Forks and Bemidji. They have Internet ordering.

I need to tell you how to cut a good thread. You do it slowly and gently, and do not use a drill. You need the right size tap and thread for the screw you want to use. Then you drill the whole undersize. Then I use a special bit that makes the hole smooth and perfectly round.

Now you take the tap and gently turn it a half turn, then back a quarter turn. You repeat this until you have a nice thread all the way through. The reason the the reverse is to get the chaff back, so it does not destroy the thread as you tap.

I only use the best American Dormier drill bits, which I get at Grand Forks Welding and Machine, where I buy my steel for bigger jobs.

 

[Nestor]

I have fixtures similar to yours. After a similar experience losing the fasteners, I take a different approach: I shut off the breaker, remove the bulb, and use a long handled brush, such as a vegetable scrubber, and soapy water. After a mild spray-out with a garden hose, I let them dry out for a couple of hours.
I've done this twice a year for the last two years with no fuss.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Swerd]

I've installed a light or two over the years and keep one of these in my tool bucket:
http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/6-1-tapping-tool

That looks like a simple and workable solution. I wish I had one of those yesterday. Would that work in cast aluminum? There already was a threaded hole, I only needed to enlarge it and re-thread it.

Richard,
I have had a lot of stuff in my tool cases for years, as I'm an old geezer. I don't know where it came from. I get good tools from ACME. They don't have junk. Round here they are in Grand Forks and Bemidji. They have Internet ordering.

Acme… I'm familiar with them (Wiley Coyote prefers them)

I need to tell you how to cut a good thread. You do it slowly and gently, and do not use a drill. You need the right size tap and thread for the screw you want to use. Then you drill the whole undersize. Then I use a special bit that makes the hole smooth and perfectly round.

Now you take the tap and gently turn it a half turn, then back a quarter turn. You repeat this until you have a nice thread all the way through. The reason the the reverse is to get the chaff back, so it does not destroy the thread as you tap.

I only use the best American Dormier drill bits, which I get at Grand Forks Welding and Machine, where I buy my steel for bigger jobs.

That anticipated my next question. Thanks for the info.

I have fixtures similar to yours. After a similar experience losing the fasteners, I take a different approach: I shut off the breaker, remove the bulb, and use a long handled brush, such as a vegetable scrubber, and soapy water. After a mild spray-out with a garden hose, I let them dry out for a couple of hours.
I've done this twice a year for the last two years with no fuss.

Not a bad idea. My wife has hands small enough to easily fit the opening at the bottom of the fixtures. I was thinking of putting her a short step ladder and letting her clean it.

 

[Swerd]

n the topic of grinding gears: "You're a man. You're not use to communicating". Many other words followed those but all I could hear in my head was 'yeah, it's 'cause I spend all my time listening'. I didn't say those words and was eventually met with a, "why are you laughing"? When they're sexist it's really kind of funny but when we're sexist, not so much. But she's right, communicating my thoughts at that moment would not have benefited me or her for that matter. Gotta keep that sh!t bottled up.

Last night, after downing the Gulden Draak 9000 (Bonnie had ½ a bottle & I had 1½ – it has 10.5% alcohol), we watched Bill Burr on Netflix, a comedian I hadn't heard of before. His efforts at dealing with this subject were excellent.

http://www.netflix.com/WiMovie/80004478?locale=en-US&mqso=81743283&awmatchtype=b&awnetwork=g&awcreative=59173125179&awkeyword=bill burr 1s8bhyczchi3l _kat&awposition=1t1&awexpid&awdevice=c&gclid=CLf2zpGRxsICFchr7Aod_g4A0Q

 

[Swerd]

Ok, I've spent some quality time on Amazon and came up with some ideas for a Tap & Die Holiday Gift . I'd appreciate some feedback. My initial thoughts about intended use are:

• Light duty, homeowner DIY use on materials made from mild steel, aluminum, or plastic.
  
• No automotive, tractor, or snow blower repair.
• Stick to smaller SAE sizes.
• If metric bits are needed, get them as needed (Ronald Reagan stopped the nation-wide switch to metric back in 1980. I wish he hadn't.)
• I think I prefer a smaller high-quality kit (such as #1) over a larger kit of questionable quality (#4).

Short List:

1. Irwin 25605 12 piece set $21 – It probably has all the sizes I'll need
   http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YOAZ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1GDDQNVYRFL0A&coliid=I2EUT9P5S8LRK9
   
   
2. Irwin 24606 41 piece set $105 for the Holidays
   http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000EI9AV/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1GDDQNVYRFL0A&coliid=I376F6NQLY35VB
   
   
3. Greenlee DTAPKIT 6 piece $33 (Alex specifically mentioned Green Lee, but these seem to be meant for thin gauge sheet metal) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041FIR1E/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1GDDQNVYRFL0A&coliid=I7U92CCB4BWPB&psc=1
   
   
4. Texton 7560 45 piece set $86 (lesser quality than Irwin, good enough?) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031Z6LPY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1GDDQNVYRFL0A&coliid=I1HMK7WXNJXA6K
   
   
5. And last but not least, Forney Cutting Fluid http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X3ZKXI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1GDDQNVYRFL0A&coliid=I3NFG2TMYU3CEK&psc=1

 

[Alex2507]

#3 is that kit. Like I said it breaks just like the rest but for 10 bucks: okay. Not for 30. The #1 kit gives you a bunch of stuff you don't need and not all the stuff you do. You can easily find a tap chart and maybe your hardware guy will have numbered and lettered drill bits but I still like my first suggestion of getting exactly what you do need for ~5 bucks + the handle. I would also grab that thing Rick linked. All at HD. One stop. I have never needed a die and have never owned them. For me it's about getting what I need to do what I gotta do. If I was starting a collection of things I didn't need and don't use because I wanted to spend money I don't have then I would go right for Snap On.

The truth is that with taps you want to identify the best quality available and go for that. I know those Irwin ones work for what I need. Trying to save money on taps is so risky. When they break you have to remove them and that is a hard row to hoe.

Just make Bonnie clean the lights.

 

[Swerd]

It's funny how with tools, stuff that you might work with on the job, you're all practical. "Just get what you need." But when it comes to home audio, you never stop obsessing. You've probably had more different receivers than I have Blue Ray discs .

#3 is that kit. Like I said it breaks just like the rest but for 10 bucks: okay. Not for 30. The #1 kit gives you a bunch of stuff you don't need and not all the stuff you do. You can easily find a tap chart and maybe your hardware guy will have numbered and lettered drill bits but I still like my first suggestion of getting exactly what you do need for ~5 bucks + the handle. I would also grab that thing Rick linked. All at HD. One stop. I have never needed a die and have never owned them. For me it's about getting what I need to do what I gotta do. If I was starting a collection of things I didn't need and don't use because I wanted to spend money I don't have then I would go right for Snap On.

The truth is that with taps you want to identify the best quality available and go for that. I know those Irwin ones work for what I need. Trying to save money on taps is so risky. When they break you have to remove them and that is a hard row to hoe.

I finally looked at that video for the Greenlee kit. It's meant for sheet metal up to 10 g. It wouldn't have worked at all for the problem I had yesterday. It was a solid bit of aluminum deep enough to hold the threaded screw shaft.

I get the part about how sets usually give you stuff you'll never use. The router bit set I got when I first bought my router, still has a bunch of unused bits. I only use the ½" straight bit, ¼" spiral upcut and a 1¼" mortice bit. The set included the ½" bit, but I had buy the others separately. Occasionally I open the nice wooden box to look at those bits. But if I get any taps, I'll need a box to keep them in. For $21, I can a few Irwin taps, dies, and handles in a plastic box. I still think that's the 1st choice on my list.

Just make Bonnie clean the lights.

I will. She HATES spiders . If she gets her hand all gorped up with spider webs and dead moth debris,
she could have a conniption fit and pass out, while on the ladder.

 

[Alex2507]

You've probably had more different receivers than I have Blue Ray discs .

H/K AVR 430 keep alive memory capacitor failed/constantly losing settings
Onkyo TX-SR800 composite video out failed/no OSD
Yammy RX-V2600 in use
Yammy RX-V663 in use

That's not so bad!

Ultimately my 'get what you need' philosophy worked its way into audio ... like the MBOW1 3-Ways. Clearly I needed those. I want to know who built those, btw. Was it Del? The miters on the xo housing have splines! That's some serious build quality. The Walnut 1/4 round trim on that was biscuited on.

When you get the $21 box, tap and handle you can get your drill bits by buying the tap/bit combo I linked for the bit and you'll have the always needed spare tap.

The Bill Burr stand up was great. Your post motivated me to get my 30 day Netflix free trial on the Smart TV and that was the first thing I watched. Now I gotta see what I have to do to get that on my computer ... and on the DMP-BDT500.


--- way later ---


Talking to you about taps leads to me rewiring my 2.2 system in preparation for Netflix. Okay, maybe I have a small problem.

 

[Adam]

Last night, after downing the Gulden Draak 9000 (Bonnie had ½ a bottle & I had 1½ – it has 10.5% alcohol), we watched Bill Burr on Netflix, a comedian I hadn't heard of before.

I'm glad that you watched that! I think that dude is hilarious. I first saw him on Netflix a year or two ago. He has at least two other specials streaming on Netflix which I also find quite funny. I haven't finished watching the one you linked, yet, but I liked what I've seen so far.