Two Subs on Craigs...

[Dargent0628]

HSU VTF-1...$325
Dayton Titanic Mk2...$175

Hi all, I am finally in a position to upgrade to a better sub--the past several months have seen a few crisis that eliminated my discretionary funds, but now I'm back on the hunt for a subwoofer to improve my system. These two choices intrigue me. Any thoughts? I am aware of HSU's reputation, but this is a pretty old sub, right? If it's in great shape is the price fair? The Dayton is a kit but after some research it sure sounds like a beast on paper, and the price is friendly. Any input appreciated. Room is around 1100 cubic feet, small openings to hallway and kitchen. Thanks!

 

[j_garcia]

Which Titanic kit? It sounds like the better deal initially. The HSU would be a good bet too, potentially not as old, but also 10" if the Titanic is a 12" or 15"

 

[Dargent0628]

Which Titanic kit? It sounds like the better deal initially. The HSU would be a good bet too, potentially not as old, but also 10" if the Titanic is a 12" or 15"

Thanks JG...here's a link to the Titanic kit provided by the lister:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-t1204k-12-titanic-mk-4-500-watt-rms-subwoofer-kit--300-762

The lister says this link is to the newer version of the kit, but that the specs are the same. Definitely a 12".

 

[j_garcia]

The Mk4 has a different amp and driver, but the Mk2 was still a pretty good sub IMO. I'd say it is still a good deal at that price as long as there's nothing wrong with it. Possible to listen to it first?

 

[Dargent0628]

The Mk4 has a different amp and driver, but the Mk2 was still a pretty good sub IMO. I'd say it is still a good deal at that price as long as there's nothing wrong with it. Possible to listen to it first?

Yes, I noticed the Mk2 has a smaller amp (350W.) I think the output would be more than sufficient for my small space. Yes he has invited auditions. He is sending pics this evening. He did indicate that there is no LFE input and this concerns me somewhat.

 

[shadyJ]

VTF1 mk2? I think you guys are getting your VTF subs mixed up, the VTF1s never had a 350 watt amp. If what you are describing is a VTF3 mk2, that is a pretty old model. It should still be good though, but given its age I might try to bring the price down a bit. The Titanic would be good and that is a very good price for it.

 

[Dargent0628]

VTF1 mk2? I think you guys are getting your VTF subs mixed up, the VTF1s never had a 350 watt amp. If what you are describing is a VTF3 mk2, that is a pretty old model. It should still be good though, but given its age I might try to bring the price down a bit. The Titanic would be good and that is a very good price for it.

The Mk1 on Craig's is the Titanic. The guy listing it built it several years ago. The HSU is the original VTF1 and I'm thinking that price is high for a sub that old. I think the Titanic might be a good choice. He sent pics--it's not exactly pretty but the specs are impressive. Would I use a splitter from my Denon's LFE out to the Titanic's high-level ins? It doesn't have a dedicated LFE in. And if so, would I then use Audyssey as usual to integrate the sub into my room?

 

[shadyJ]

Agreed that price is a bit too high for a original VTF1.

 

[Dargent0628]

Agreed that price is a bit too high for a original VTF1.

Correction--even I'm getting mixed up! The Titanic is a Mk2...can anyone date it's probable age? And advice on the inputs?

 

[rojo]

I'm sure that amp sums its inputs. You can run a single RCA into the left input and it'd be the same difference as splitting (halving) the signal into both inputs and letting the amp re-combine them. It's mono out regardless. I doubt you could tell the difference in a blind test.

Having said that, if it were my sub, I'd probably still use a Y cable like this one just to satisfy my sense of symmetry. I'm a little OCD like that though. Realistically there's no benefit, but by golly I like using things that were made to go together.

 

[Dargent0628]

I'm sure that amp sums its inputs. You can run a single RCA into the left input and it'd be the same difference as splitting (halving) the signal into both inputs and letting the amp re-combine them. It's mono out regardless. I doubt you could tell the difference in a blind test.

Having said that, if it were my sub, I'd probably still use a Y cable like this one just to satisfy my sense of symmetry. I'm a little OCD like that though. Realistically there's no benefit, but by golly I like using things that were made to go together.

Ah, ok, I get it. Do I then calibrate the sub in the same manner using Audyssey? Thanks for the info!

 

[rojo]

Yep. There's no complicated logic or planning you have to consider regarding the connection. Just plug it in and do what feels right.

 

[j_garcia]

Sub is mono so it doesn't matter if you connect both R&L, the resulting sound is still mono (the signal is mono already as well) and will calibrate the same. LFE input technically just means the signal bypasses the sub's x-over circuitry, so when not bypassing it, you simply turn the x-over all the way up.

Not only is the price too high, it is a 10" sub, so it won't likely fill a room quite as easily or extend deeper as well in most cases. I am sure it is a solid sub, but not at that price.

 

[Dargent0628]

JG are you referring to the HSU as being priced too high? I think so too. The titanic could be a good buy...but now I'm looking at Dayton 1200for 129 shipped...

 

[j_garcia]

Yes. the HSU is too high. The Dayton 1200 isn't quite at the same level as the Titanic kit, but should still be a good buy for the price. If you wait until the holidays, the 1200 is often less than $100.

 

[Dargent0628]

Yes. the HSU is too high. The Dayton 1200 isn't quite at the same level as the Titanic kit, but should still be a good buy for the price. If you wait until the holidays, the 1200 is often less than $100.

Thanks JG, one consideration is the GAF with the Titanic--it appears to be pretty damn big and a bit chipped up--the guy selling it cites it's weight as between 75-100 lbs. That limits placement options if I do a sub crawl and ascertain that a near field location near the sofa is best--that ain't happening with that big a box. Whereas the 1200 would fit most anywhere. Also, there is the matter of warranty protection with the 1200 as opposed to none with a Craig's item. Sheesh, the decision on a sub is more difficult than any other AV purchase I've made...

 

[j_garcia]

No warranty could be a concern, especially if they don't make those 350w amps anymore, and I'm pretty sure they don't (though the new 500w may still work). There's also this one that is actually recommended by Tom from PSA (a former founder of SVS).

http://www.amazon.com/NXG-Technology-NX-BAS-500-500-watt-Subwoofer/dp/B008FSTU4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414170991&sr=8-1&keywords=nxg sub

 

[Dargent0628]

Saw that one JG...Jim Wilson also was impressed

 

[Dargent0628]

Well, I just ordered the Dayton 1200 with the wireless kit. I decided I wanted the security of the 45 day return policy, and the reviews here and around the web are very positive, so in 5 days or so we shall see and hear! Bear in mind this is replacing a Sony SAWM250 that if anything made my system sound worse--two weeks ago I got so disgusted with it's (lack of) sound that I just disconnected it and ran the B5s full-range with a new Audyssey setup. Listening to Ray Brown Bassics compilation on Concord Records right now at -35db and the little B5s have a pretty sweet low end on their own. I'm going to just pretend that I've never actually had a sub in the mix and I'm looking forward to hearing a tangible improvement. Thanks for the feedback and advice...any further guidance always appreciated! Oh, here's one question: when I do the sub crawl should I place the sub on the floor where my primary seat is, or actually on the sofa where I sit?

 

[j_garcia]

On the sofa where you sit.