2.1 Pre Out AVR recommendations please

[Acoustat]

I would like to shop around for an AVR I can use (5.1 or more channels)
with a great reputation
upscale HD to 4K
perhaps stream wirelessly but not a necessity.

Have 2.1 pre outs so I can use my home stereo amp and existing loud speakers + sub
yet be able to run surround as I build the speaker system.

Seeing the Marantz 1605 having issues with locking up and being
at or a little above the cap of my AVR budget, can anyone make
a couple good alternative suggestions?

So frequently the specs list pre outs, but they are not 2.1 making it difficult
to shop for the correct output type of AVR.

 

[TLS Guy]

I would like to shop around for an AVR I can use (5.1 or more channels)
with a great reputation
upscale HD to 4K
perhaps stream wirelessly but not a necessity.

Have 2.1 pre outs so I can use my home stereo amp and existing loud speakers + sub
yet be able to run surround as I build the speaker system.

Seeing the Marantz 1605 having issues with locking up and being
at or a little above the cap of my AVR budget, can anyone make
a couple good alternative suggestions?

So frequently the specs list pre outs, but they are not 2.1 making it difficult
to shop for the correct output type of AVR.

The only receiver in your budget are the Marantz unit I steered you to.

If you must have 4K upscale you will have to go to receivers with 7.1 preouts. That will really bust your budget.

4K upscaling is a sales gimmick and will not give you any benefit.

If you don't want the NR 1605 then get the 2.1 receivers with that do not have 4K upscaling.

You are creating an issue you don't need to. At normal listening distances with the size LG screen you have 4K will give you absolutely no benefit. ZERO.

 

[Adam]

The only receiver in your budget are the Marantz unit I steered you to.

What is the budget?

The Pioneer VSX-1124 has 4K upscaling and 2.1 pre outs for less money than the Marantz 1605 (and the VSX-1123 is even less expensive, but does not have HDMI 2.0). I own both the 1504 and 1604, and I love the form factor, but you unquestionably pay for it. Those slim receivers don't pack the same punch per dollar as the regular form factor receivers do.

I happen to prefer Pioneer's MCACC system over the Audyssey system in the Marantz, too.

 

[TLS Guy]

What is the budget?

The Pioneer VSX-1124 has 4K upscaling and 2.1 pre outs for less money than the Marantz 1605 (and the VSX-1123 is even less expensive, but does not have HDMI 2.0). I own both the 1504 and 1604, and I love the form factor, but you unquestionably pay for it. Those slim receivers don't pack the same punch per dollar as the regular form factor receivers do.

I happen to prefer Pioneer's MCACC system over the Audyssey system in the Marantz, too.

His budget is $1000 for receiver, sub and surrounds. He has a nice legacy system that includes a Carver amp and Acoustat electrostatic panels.

With panels like that a center is not recommended.

So he must have a receiver with at least 2.1 outs. The receiver amps will only drive the surrounds.

He will end up a little over budget but not by a lot.

 

[Acoustat]

As I began research I was looking at the Bose 10 AM and figured that wold be
the amount I would be shooting for..with no experience in HT nor any
research. It's like not buying a car for 30 years then going shopping for one.
You have a set point figure in mind for spending because you saw a commercial or read an article on performance and mileage, so you get to the lot, and low and behold if you sacrifice mileage you can have a greater towing capacity. That s where I am right now and I would appreciate it if starting a thread to get more eyes on the query, didn't rile up an issue with TLS guy.
It's like having a salesmen standing over you trying to prevent you from looking at the other lot. I have no clue if the other lot has what I'm looking for or not.

UPscaling preference will in no way shape or form have any affect on my system. I Have not listed the size of the room nor the TV nor its' definition.
I did however state that I want to make a purchase that would work for me
20 years from now though, and having the upscaling is a future upgrade
I'd like to get now if I can without going too far over budget. The sub looks to be in the 500-$700 range. So budget has had to go out the window a little.

As far as a centre ch, Martin Logan offers them with their electrostatic theatre
systems, so more than likely it can be done, just not my requirement.
My speakers have a very sweet spot that someone next to you does not experience, so I would naturally think a centre ch would help overcome this
issue for HT time.

Thanks for the warm welcome to the forum.

 

[TLS Guy]

As I began research I was looking at the Bose 10 AM and figured that wold be
the amount I would be shooting for..with no experience in HT nor any
research. It's like not buying a car for 30 years then going shopping for one.
You have a set point figure in mind for spending because you saw a commercial or read an article on performance and mileage, so you get to the lot, and low and behold if you sacrifice mileage you can have a greater towing capacity. That s where I am right now and I would appreciate it if starting a thread to get more eyes on the query, didn't rile up an issue with TLS guy.
It's like having a salesmen standing over you trying to prevent you from looking at the other lot. I have no clue if the other lot has what I'm looking for or not.

UPscaling preference will in no way shape or form have any affect on my system. I Have not listed the size of the room nor the TV nor its' definition.
I did however state that I want to make a purchase that would work for me
20 years from now though, and having the upscaling is a future upgrade
I'd like to get now if I can without going too far over budget. The sub looks to be in the 500-$700 range. So budget has had to go out the window a little.

As far as a centre ch, Martin Logan offers them with their electrostatic theatre
systems, so more than likely it can be done, just not my requirement.
My speakers have a very sweet spot that someone next to you does not experience, so I would naturally think a centre ch would help overcome this
issue for HT time.

Thanks for the warm welcome to the forum.

I think you have your receiver options.

These modern AV receivers seem not to have a long shelf life, ten years or less seems to be the norm. The bigger issue is obsolescence. After three years things seem out of date. My pre pro is not quite four years old, but about two generations behind now. So a newer one might well offer options I would like. We will see.

I love to think in terms of 50 year lifetimes. I have equipment I use in this rig that is 50 years old. However a receiver or pre/pro unfortunately is not in that category. It could be if someone produced a modular design. I would jump at the chance to have a built like a tank modular pre/pro that I could easily update.

This is an issue along with complexity that keeps people out of the market.

You are a classic example. You have some really nice legacy gear, but you have had a significant learning curve to understand how current equipment is configured and you have not got to the set up stage yet!

This industry is in big trouble and its not hard to see the reasons why. It is not just technical either. A lot of funds go to mobile, which in most cases is required to do your job. Then add decline on disposable income and you have the perfect storm.

In fact any receiver you buy now may well be out of date by the time you have to replace your TV. My most honest advice, especially with budget constraints, is to buy the best made receiver for the job to meet your needs now. Future proofing seems like a nice idea, but does not work.

Also trying future proof and buying really expensive gear in this arena makes you hang on the gear you should let go.

A very good friend has Mac electronics that cost a small fortune. His pre pro is now way out of date and limits his horizons, as well as now having tons of awkward work arounds. He is reluctant to get ditch this unit because of the purchase price.

As far as a center channel, you can try it. I have heard the Martin Logan center with the electrostatic speakers and I did not think there was good integration.

That locked sweet spot is the Achilles heel of large planar loudspeakers. If that is something you really can't live with, then sadly that would be a reason to replace them.

A center speaker has to be a monopole. Integrating a front stage with two dipoles and a monopole really does not have a satisfactory solution.

I still think with the budget you have your best option is to maximize your nice legacy system by trying to update it to the HT age.

I would give one caveat however, if music listening including music with picture if going to be your major use of the system, then I'm advising you correctly.

If HT boom and fizzle is what you are after and not accuracy, then may be a total system redo could be the way to go.

However I absolutely hate most HT systems demonstrated to me. My view is that a superlative music system will make the best HT system.

One of the things people really like about watching movies here, is the ability of the system to reproduce natural conversational speech. It really draws you into the story and makes you feel like an interloper right there with the characters.

With these movie algorithms and auto Eq programs, that is the last thing you get.

So my final advice is not to count out a good music system as a superlative HT system. I personally disagree with the two system, one for music and one for HT approach.

 

[Acoustat]

What is the budget?

The Pioneer VSX-1124 has 4K upscaling and 2.1 pre outs for less money than the Marantz 1605 (and the VSX-1123 is even less expensive, but does not have HDMI 2.0). I own both the 1504 and 1604, and I love the form factor, but you unquestionably pay for it. Those slim receivers don't pack the same punch per dollar as the regular form factor receivers do.

I happen to prefer Pioneer's MCACC system over the Audyssey system in the Marantz, too.

Adam, thanks for the response. I was able to look over the Pioneer this evening online.
The 1124 actually has 2.2 pre outs which is even better at being versatile.
I believe versatility is a huge thing, which is why I was looking for upscaling in the AVR
even though a newer bought BRP would no doubt do the same, but if I got a 4K TV
and did not replace the BRP immediately, I could take advantage of the upscaling ability of the AVR.
If I buy a newer BRP with the 4K TV and it fails, whilst in the shop, I have a back up 1080p 3D BRP
that will nicely fill the void during the service This is the reason I'm shooting for versatility. It's a back up of sorts
and a pioneer to the new 4K BRP. I'm trying to be thorough and cover good bases and hope for longevity

Is there any difference in the Pioneers 1124 and 1124K?
I found this the older vs. of the 1124 (1123) which really seems to have all I need I think.

What do you think? It's a bit price reduced too...

I think you have your receiver options.
So that's it for 2.1 and 2.2 pre outs Pioneer and Marantz?

These modern AV receivers seem not to have a long shelf life, ten years or less seems to be the norm. The bigger issue is obsolescence. After three years things seem out of date. My pre pro is not quite four years old, but about two generations behind now. So a newer one might well offer options I would like. We will see.

Other than the 4K which doesn't cover most of the formatting ATM, given my continued use of my 1988-89 system I built
piece by piece based on a lot of research that I could do without the internet then, and how each piece had its' +'s
(ie. the NAD 1700 pre-amp had by far the best phono input processor? I forget now, of any other pre amp, better than the Carver.
The semi infinitely effortless tuner knob would spin circles on the stop watch, and the rejection and sensitivity was near that of the old Fischers specs.
The Carver was tuned to mirror the Silver Seven amp, the Nakamichi Cass. and CD for mechanical dependability and the B&O turntable
was the best I could afford and heard great things about. The speakers were selected after the store sold me a pair ok Polks
that were used in the showroom and every customer got the thermal shut down demo with over driving. I marked the speakers
when the salesman was not in the room, they delivered the same ones they then got the Acoustst 22 and 33's in, in white
I said I'll take a black pair of the 3300's so I knew they were new after I had listened to Simply Reds Picture Book album on them
and Barbara Streisands' One Voice, Send in the Clowns I knew I had the speakers I had always wanted)
What I'm getting at is, if this stuff all works 10 yrs from now (HT stuff) obsolescence does not fit into my picture.
If it's good now, that's good enough for me.



This industry is in big trouble and its not hard to see the reasons why. It is not just technical either. A lot of funds go to mobile, which in most cases is required to do your job. Then add decline on disposable income and you have the perfect storm.

This is sad to hear and I appreciate your thoroughness. Koodos for the half century gear you're still using


I would give one caveat however, if music listening including music with picture if going to be your major use of the system, then I'm advising you correctly.
Thanks again

If HT boom and fizzle is what you are after and not accuracy, then may be a total system redo could be the way to go.

However I absolutely hate most HT systems demonstrated to me. My view is that a superlative music system will make the best HT system.

One of the things people really like about watching movies here, is the ability of the system to reproduce natural conversational speech. It really draws you into the story and makes you feel like an interloper right there with the characters.

You have a lot of intelligence in the market, and voice is a big thing especially as we get older.
I believe they do that to keep the battery companies in business, up/down the remote, and hearing aids :doh:
I never disagreed with you, was just wanting a new thread like I said I would start for specific equipment.

With these movie algorithms and auto Eq programs, that is the last thing you get.

So my final advice is not to count out a good music system as a superlative HT system.
I personally disagree with the two system, one for music and one for HT approach.
I agree!

 

[Adam]

Yeah, I mentioned the 1123 because if you don't need/want the higher frame rates for 4K that HDMI 2.0 can do, the 1123 should serve you just fine. Having two subwoofer outputs in models at this price point should not be a deciding factor. The outputs will both have the same signal (higher priced models might have stereo subwoofer outputs), so it's only marginally more convenient than having one subwoofer output and using a y-splitter. I use a y-splitter and it works great.

Also, there's no difference between "1124" and "1124-K". I think the "-K" stands for the black version, but I forget.

I don't know what other models out there have 2.1 pre outs. I didn't do a search for you. I just knew about the Pioneers already, and I wanted to chime in because TLS definitively stated that there weren't any others in your price range other than the Marantz...and the Pioneers are less expensive.

 

[Acoustat]

Yeah, I mentioned the 1123 because if you don't need/want the higher frame rates for 4K that HDMI 2.0 can do, the 1123 should serve you just fine. Having two subwoofer outputs in models at this price point should not be a deciding factor. The outputs will both have the same signal (higher priced models might have stereo subwoofer outputs), so it's only marginally more convenient than having one subwoofer output and using a y-splitter. I use a y-splitter and it works great.

The little details, yes you did mention the 1123 and I forgot all about that when I found it on line.
I do want the 2.0 HDMI and I guess that's going to cost me. Both Pioneers seem to have great reviews.

Would the Pioneer have as natural a pass
through, (stealth) pre amp as the Marantz for my other audio peripherals, like DVD mostly. I know if it has a phono input it won't be near my NAD, but since
Last company went out of business in Cal. I cannot remember the last time I played any LPs on my Beogram 3300.

So with a subwoofer on an AVR as a preamp, what's going to be going on when I play just audio?

Will I be able to toggle back n forth between subwoofer on/off or will I have to unplug it?

Will it be alright to flip the crossover on the main speakers to gain headroom from the amp once 2 subs are used?
(I mean ATM heavy bass @ 200W/Ch may show up as excess energy, making a clicking sound in the speakers
particularly with my Eq settings, and the bass might tend to degrade at this point.


Having the crossover engaged, which disengages the bass panel, and directs the signal to the stereo outlets to sub…
is there any issue with having the signal, and no receiving equipment, an open channel so to say??? I think not, but unsure.

 

[Acoustat]

Oh, well, oops the limiting factor is the subwoofers' amp here.
I keep thinking of a passive sub I had planned on for Hi Fi originally.
Sorry about that.

> THIS < seems to be more in my taste of subs
now for funds to fall in place next year is another issue.

 

[TLS Guy]

View attachment 13967 The little details, yes you did mention the 1123 and I forgot all about that when I found it on line.
I do want the 2.0 HDMI and I guess that's going to cost me. Both Pioneers seem to have great reviews.

Would the Pioneer have as natural a pass
through, (stealth) pre amp as the Marantz for my other audio peripherals, like DVD mostly. I know if it has a phono input it won't be near my NAD, but since
Last company went out of business in Cal. I cannot remember the last time I played any LPs on my Beogram 3300.

So with a subwoofer on an AVR as a preamp, what's going to be going on when I play just audio?

Will I be able to toggle back n forth between subwoofer on/off or will I have to unplug it?

Will it be alright to flip the crossover on the main speakers to gain headroom from the amp once 2 subs are used?
(I mean ATM heavy bass @ 200W/Ch may show up as excess energy, making a clicking sound in the speakers
particularly with my Eq settings, and the bass might tend to degrade at this point.


Having the crossover engaged, which disengages the bass panel, and directs the signal to the stereo outlets to sub…
is there any issue with having the signal, and no receiving equipment, an open channel so to say??? I think not, but unsure.

Don't under estimate the phono input of a receiver. RIAA correction is a very simple circuit, you have to work hard to mess up.

You will almost certainly notice no difference in that phono stage compared to a preap costing thousands.

I would suggest you use the sub for music and HT.

All receivers I'm familiar with have an LFE + Main in the speaker set up menu.

I would leave your panels full range and just supplement them with the sub. I would have the sub start coming in below 80 or 60 Hz. I'm guessing 60 Hz will likely be the best.

You will need to experiment.

I doubt you will hear any difference with pass through. I can't with my Marantz pre pros. I never use that setting.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Go to Best Buy and see if they would still honor the $1000 sale price of the Denon 4520. Members here have gotten it for $1K from BB.

 

[Acoustat]

Don't under estimate the phono input of a receiver. RIAA correction is a very simple circuit, you have to work hard to mess up.

You will almost certainly notice no difference in that phono stage compared to a preap costing thousands.

I would suggest you use the sub for music and HT.

All receivers I'm familiar with have an LFE + Main in the speaker set up menu.

I would leave your panels full range and just supplement them with the sub. I would have the sub start coming in below 80 or 60 Hz. I'm guessing 60 Hz will likely be the best.

So you're saying I cannot crank it up, just live with the bass limitations of the Acoustats when I want to listen to
what normally would be a problem for them to handle?
I've been doing this limitation for 26 yrs now and was hoping to possibly start using a sub for music
when I wanted to open it up a bit. My amp thinks I don't love it LOL.
Still this does not address the issue of having an open jack on the back of my speakers.
Will the powered signal from the crossovers entering an open port with no device connected
harm ANY equipment in the line up including the speaker drivers that are crossing the signal over to
the subwoofer out jacks, or the amp and so on. I don't know your electrical background
so if you're not addressing the question because you don't know, that is hugely appreciated.
Some folks would have an opinion, and give it without the experience when I'm trying to protect
equipment that was made in the USA 26 years ago and the companies no longer exist.
I've proposed this question to Rythmik Audio tech support, hopefully they can answer as well.

On the phono, perhaps it's the sensitivity and separation, but I do remember it being tooted
as a higher end phono pre amp, and actually the main strong point of interest of the NAD 1700.
I do know the phono is louder on it than any other input in my system by several steps.

Go to Best Buy and see if they would still honor the $1000 sale price of the Denon 4520. Members here have gotten it for $1K from BB.

I'll probably be going with the Pioneer 1124. It has pre amp outs 2.2 I'm not so sure the Denon has 2.1 or not.
The Pioneer is $150 off right now at BB for $449

 

[TLS Guy]

So you're saying I cannot crank it up, just live with the bass limitations of the Acoustats when I want to listen to
what normally would be a problem for them to handle?
I've been doing this limitation for 26 yrs now and was hoping to possibly start using a sub for music
when I wanted to open it up a bit. My amp thinks I don't love it LOL.
Still this does not address the issue of having an open jack on the back of my speakers.
Will the powered signal from the crossovers entering an open port with no device connected
harm ANY equipment in the line up including the speaker drivers that are crossing the signal over to
the subwoofer out jacks, or the amp and so on. I don't know your electrical background
so if you're not addressing the question because you don't know, that is hugely appreciated.
Some folks would have an opinion, and give it without the experience when I'm trying to protect
equipment that was made in the USA 26 years ago and the companies no longer exist.
I've proposed this question to Rythmik Audio tech support, hopefully they can answer as well.

On the phono, perhaps it's the sensitivity and separation, but I do remember it being tooted
as a higher end phono pre amp, and actually the main strong point of interest of the NAD 1700.
I do know the phono is louder on it than any other input in my system by several steps.


I'll probably be going with the Pioneer 1124. It has pre amp outs 2.2 I'm not so sure the Denon has 2.1 or not.
The Pioneer is $150 off right now at BB for $449

This update has nothing to do with cranking it up.

I think you have some basic misunderstandings.

Here is a diagram of an electrostatic loudspeaker.

This is totally different to a moving coil speaker.

Now the stators are energized at usually a couple of thousand volts or so. The signal is superimposed on that and makes the membrane vibrate to produce sound.

Now as the membrane vibrates it gets alternately closer to one stator and then the other.
Now every panel has a maximum signal where a spark is going to occur and make a hole in the membrane. When this happens the speaker is destroyed.

So an electrostatic speaker has an absolute finite volume. To protect this the speakers have fast acting severe instant limiters to prevent the arc. When these activate it makes a bad sound, because the voltage is suddenly and severely clipped by the protection.

Now a sub will offload your speakers very little, because most of the power is in the 100 to 2.5 KHz range. You can experiment with setting the panels to small and crossing over at 80 Hz, but my guess is that you will gain an insignificant amount of increased volume.

The only way you could increase the sound output, would be to design and build a speaker to handle everything below 500 Hz and use an electronic crossover and another power amp to drive it. This is what Martin Logan does for all but therir very large panels. For an electrostatic speaker to produce high sound output, it either has to be very large, as this increases efficiency and bass extension, or be filled with an inert gas, so a spark can not occur. The old Dayton Wright speakers worked this way. However the gas diffused slowly though the membrane and the speaker was ruined. They soon went broke.

I don't understand the issue of the open jack on the back of your speakers.

The way your speakers are connected will not change.

The right and left pre outs go to your Carver where your NAD is plugged in now.

The LFE out goes to your sub. Then you do your speaker set up with the receiver speaker set up menu.

The set up I have recommended will not harm your equipment. A lot of your post makes no sense, and gives me the impression you still do not understand how to correctly set this equipment up.

I can assure you I now have 60 years experience of electronics and audio.

I'm starting to think that may be these speakers are not for you, and you do need a completely new system.

The issue of the NAD and the phono input was all salesman codswallop.

The only phono input that I know that is special is on the Quad 44 preamp. This allows for different sensitivities, and the ability to set the capacitance of the phono input to the spec of the cartridge.

We have lots of members very happy here with the phono input of their receivers.

 

[Acoustat]

What you, are not understanding, is my understanding, that the speaker will not handle the bass thud
when at say 50% volume. There is a crossover on the back of my drivers, to disengage the bass panel
and allow that signal to flow through the subwoofer OUT jacks to a passive, unpowered sub.

So say I'm listening to something, and then a bass drum kicks in…

^ This is a classic example
With the crossover to sub out, my amp is now pushing a signal into these jacks
if I'm using a 2.1 AVR to feed a subwoofer, and I decide the panels cannot handle the sound pressure I want
and I turn OFF the speakers bass panels so I can achieve with the remaining panels the sound pressure I desire
the OUT jacks to a passive subwoofer will not be connected to any device (subwoofer or speaker).
I propose an issue, that may not be warranted as THIS is what I am ignorant about.
These OUT jacks are now carrying an amplified signal with nothing hooked up to them.
Probably not an issue, I want to be 100% positive that it is not. The only stupid question is the one not asked.

 

[TLS Guy]

What you, are not understanding, is my understanding, that the speaker will not handle the bass thud
when at say 50% volume. There is a crossover on the back of my drivers, to disengage the bass panel
and allow that signal to flow through the subwoofer OUT jacks to a passive, unpowered sub.

So say I'm listening to something, and then a bass drum kicks in…

^ This is a classic example
With the crossover to sub out, my amp is now pushing a signal into these jacks
if I'm using a 2.1 AVR to feed a subwoofer, and I decide the panels cannot handle the sound pressure I want
and I turn OFF the speakers bass panels so I can achieve with the remaining panels the sound pressure I desire
the OUT jacks to a passive subwoofer will not be connected to any device (subwoofer or speaker).
I propose an issue, that may not be warranted as THIS is what I am ignorant about.
These OUT jacks are now carrying an amplified signal with nothing hooked up to them.
Probably not an issue, I want to be 100% positive that it is not. The only stupid question is the one not asked.

Now I understand. It will not do damage. But you can not disconnect the bass panels and get decent sound. The sub will NOT replace your bass panels, as they are producing sounds way above sub range. The most you can do to off load your panels is to set the panels to small in the speaker menu and crossover at 80 Hz. As I said this will not buy you significant spl increase. If you want to do that you will have to build a custom moving coil driver system to replace the bass panels.

 

[Acoustat]

This coming from the worlds largest Acoustat dealer at one point in time...

A sub can be used, but it needs to be a nimble, clean sub...not a flatulent boom box.
You should use a crossover so the Acoustats don't run full range, though.
If you want to know why, play the heartbeat at the beginning of Dark Side of the Moon, and listen to your panels rattle.

Paul Scarpelli

I'm just trying to protect my equipment. I am responsible for them.
I do not know proper terms, but I'm sure "dummy load" or "phantom load"
would not be accurate and rather misleading to use to describe what I was talking about.

I know with liquid pumps, it is damaging to throttle/valve down the inlet
but quite alright to valve down the outlet to control flow.
Electrical signals from an amp in an open source like this, I'm quite ignorant about.

I will better know once I have the equipment, how switching the Acoustats crossover is
sonically impaired. I will also see if I can barrow a centre ch speaker and try to overcome
the sweet spot, that is not as fulfilling if you move your head 1" one way or the other for HT only.
Within that sweet spot, one is in Heaven with most normal listening levels which will be the norm.
I do want to open it up once in a while and dust off the grid a little. I am on my 2nd pair of socks on these
redone in Tempe, Az at Rockford Fosgate, and one panel replaced at that time as well.
Had to ship by semi truck, and I had kept all original packaging. I still have the original packaging
for my Carver and Nakimichi CD. My Canon VCR I bought then still works. Can't tell you how many DVD players
I've been through in that time. Just not made as good anymore.

Do you have any qualms with the Rythmik F15's ?

 

[TLS Guy]

This coming from the worlds largest Acoustat dealer at one point in time...


I'm just trying to protect my equipment. I am responsible for them.
I do not know proper terms, but I'm sure "dummy load" or "phantom load"
would not be accurate and rather misleading to use to describe what I was talking about.

I know with liquid pumps, it is damaging to throttle/valve down the inlet
but quite alright to valve down the outlet to control flow.
Electrical signals from an amp in an open source like this, I'm quite ignorant about.

I will better know once I have the equipment, how switching the Acoustats crossover is
sonically impaired. I will also see if I can barrow a centre ch speaker and try to overcome
the sweet spot, that is not as fulfilling if you move your head 1" one way or the other for HT only.
Within that sweet spot, one is in Heaven with most normal listening levels which will be the norm.
I do want to open it up once in a while and dust off the grid a little. I am on my 2nd pair of socks on these
redone in Tempe, Az at Rockford Fosgate, and one panel replaced at that time as well.
Had to ship by semi truck, and I had kept all original packaging. I still have the original packaging
for my Carver and Nakimichi CD. My Canon VCR I bought then still works. Can't tell you how many DVD players
I've been through in that time. Just not made as good anymore.

Do you have any qualms with the Rythmik F15's ?

Do you have a link to a user manual for those speakers? I forget now the model number.

I doubt a center will change the sweet spot issue and may make it worse, but try it.

Open source will not damage and amp.

By all means set the crossover to small 80 Hz.
The Rhythmic sub will be fine. Subs are very hard to integrate with electrostatics. The only one Peter Walker countenanced for his electrostatics, was the Gradient sub from Finland, which were specifically designed for electrostatics.

As you know like all devices, electrostatics have a lot of strengths and some weaknesses and in many ways are a total pain in the butt.

 

[Acoustat]

Do you have a link to a user manual for those speakers? I forget now the model number.

Download the Acoustat Spectra 33 brochure for free - Hifi Manuals

http://www.hifi-manuals.com/Acoustat/Spectra-33-owners-manual/download

if you're a member of this forum ^

 

[Acoustat]

EDIT added link above ^