Audioholic
addictaudio is a forum member in good standing
Best Banana plugs and type for the money? Please read and kindly advise
Hello to all. I am in the process of having an entire HT installed. The installer ran Audioquest Type 2 in wall cables. Each in-wall cable has two negative and two positive cables, so one cable could potentially be used to power two separate speakers. What they are doing in order to increase the thickness (theoretically the gauge of the wire), is interwinding the two negatives together and also the two positives together; in essence to power one speaker. Not sure if this is making sense? My question is that they welded a banana plug from Audioquest to the end of the cable. The banana is bare and then the rubber boot slides over it. It basically looks like crap. As the boot is loose, it keeps sliding back and forth. I want to get different boots, and ones that the actual banana plug and boot are one integral part. Which ones do you all recommend? Also, they soldered the banana plugs to the wires. Is this the best solution, or is it better to get the locking banana plugs or the crimping type? Please advise. Thank you.
Audioholic
twoeyedbob is off the scale
Re: Best Banana plugs and type for the money? Please read and kindly advise
Tbh i doubt 'the best banana plug' exists
Just avoid chinese cheap stuff made out of tin
Other than that it's daft spending a fortune..
Soldering ..imo..would be the pro way to do it
Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk 2
Audioholic Samurai
fuzz092888 should be listened to
I've tried a few different kinds and I ended up with the BJC locking bananas.
Speaker Cable at Blue Jeans Cable
jp_over (02-11-2013)
Seriously, I have no life.
j_garcia should be listened to
I like the locking ones and I use them on my amp side on all of my systems. They don't fit the binding posts on my speakers though.
Starts off about other things, but more info toward the end.
OK to squeeze copper wire into banana plug?
HT: Emotiva UMC-200, Emotiva XPA-3, 3X GR Research A/V-2s, GR A/V-1s, Epik Empire, Oppo BDP-83SE, URC R-50, APC-H10, Panamax 5100, PS3 Slim120G(500G) Bluejeans Cable
System Two: Marantz SR-8300, GR Research A/V-2s, Sony SCD-222ES SACD, Panasonic BD-65, PS3 60G (250G), My HT
Are you sure which side of the glass you are on?
Audioholic
addictaudio is a forum member in good standing
Thanks Guys. This is going to be connected with a Denon 4311, emotiva XPA-5, and the speakers will be Monitor Audio GX300 towers, GX350 Center, and GXFX surrounds. The wires are coming from wall plates through the wall in each of the respective locations where the speakers will be placed.
I felt into the Hoopla of cable brand, and Audioquest does not make any real thick 10 or 12 gauge cables, so the Audioquest suggested doing what they did to the installed, in order to reduce the gauge of the wire. The two positive are twisted together and the two negatives are twisted together, but the bare wire is exposed where they are soldered to the banana plug. There is no techflex or anything like that.
Please kindly check out the link below for a picture of the cable:
Star-Quad
Audioholic
twoeyedbob is off the scale
Re: Best Banana plugs and type for the money? Please read and kindly advise
You could slip a piece of heatshrink over it ..depends how
Bulky the banana's are, whether that's possible ?
Whatever you do ,it's a purely cosmetic decision.
Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk 2
Seriously, I have no life.
j_garcia should be listened to
Get the 4S11 wire from Bluejeans. AQ is overpriced for what it is, I know; I've used it. You DO NOT need 10AWG wire nor do you need to solder the connectors on.
Basically what you are talking about is what I do:
HT: Emotiva UMC-200, Emotiva XPA-3, 3X GR Research A/V-2s, GR A/V-1s, Epik Empire, Oppo BDP-83SE, URC R-50, APC-H10, Panamax 5100, PS3 Slim120G(500G) Bluejeans Cable
System Two: Marantz SR-8300, GR Research A/V-2s, Sony SCD-222ES SACD, Panasonic BD-65, PS3 60G (250G), My HT
Are you sure which side of the glass you are on?
Audioholic
addictaudio is a forum member in good standing
Sorry guys, but the wires have already been installed and the audioquest banana pluds were soldered already to the wire. I want to change this with new replacement banana plugs that are one integral piece with the boot, as the audioquest banana plug is separate from a flimsy rubber boot that slides over loosly over the actual plug.
Seriously, I have no life.
j_garcia should be listened to
Sounds like they just used the cheapest plugs they could find and they happened to be the solder type. Just cut them off and replace with the new ones the same way they've done those. Just note that this will have no impact on the sound.
If the plugs are fine and you just don't like the sleeves, just get some 3:1 shrink wrap that is large enough to fit over the plugs like twoeyedbob said. Then a hair dryer if you don't have a heat gun and you will be good to go.
HT: Emotiva UMC-200, Emotiva XPA-3, 3X GR Research A/V-2s, GR A/V-1s, Epik Empire, Oppo BDP-83SE, URC R-50, APC-H10, Panamax 5100, PS3 Slim120G(500G) Bluejeans Cable
System Two: Marantz SR-8300, GR Research A/V-2s, Sony SCD-222ES SACD, Panasonic BD-65, PS3 60G (250G), My HT
Are you sure which side of the glass you are on?
Audioholic
addictaudio is a forum member in good standing
It does look horrible with bare wires exposed. Believe it or not, they used Audioquest Banana plugs and rubber boots that slide over the plugs loosly, being two pieces versus just one integral piece. J Garcia, are you sure that you do not want to take a trip to my neck of the woods in Central Cali. to iron out these issues? How about some Brazilian BBQ and drinks as a bribe, LOL?
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