YIOF's sub thread

[bandphan]

See if you can find a Cadence Sound Systems ud-124d for under $80, I believe that driver will be workable with the box cuts you have. You need to fully model it.

 

[annunaki]

I modeled the driver in question here. I would suggest a new/different driver. It will begin exceeding xmax (Using 80 watts rms simulated) at just 53 hz! This is a woofer, not a subwoofer. You will damage the driver if you use it in the intended design. You also reach audible vent compression with 2 3" vents at around 27hz and it rises dramatically from there.

There are plenty better drivers that would work for you in that volume. One such option would be the JL Audio 12W1v2 which you could probably net around that price. You could use two 4" vents at 20.625" and keep the vent velocity below 17m/s. This will tune the enclosure to 24hz. This would also offer +/-3db response from 23hz-77hz from at least 106db. I would suggest an infrasonic filter 2nd order at 20hz to help protect the driver from passages below 20hz.

Keeping the same dimensions, the JL driver will easily meet the requirements you are after and then some.

 

[Seth=L]

I modeled the driver in question here. I would suggest a new/different driver. It will begin exceeding xmax (Using 80 watts rms simulated) at just 53 hz! This is a woofer, not a subwoofer. You will damage the driver if you use it in the intended design. You also reach audible vent compression with 2 3" vents at around 27hz and it rises dramatically from there.

There are plenty better drivers that would work for you in that volume. One such option would be the JL Audio 12W1v2 which you could probably net around that price. You could use two 4" vents at 20.625" and keep the vent velocity below 17m/s. This will tune the enclosure to 24hz. This would also offer +/-3db response from 23hz-77hz from at least 106db. I would suggest an infrasonic filter 2nd order at 20hz to help protect the driver from passages below 20hz.

Keeping the same dimensions, the JL driver will easily meet the requirements you are after and then some.

JL makes solid products, assuming it would fit the hole he already cut and it's reasonably priced, although it looks a little higher than what he was expecting. At the same time, it will still be cheaper than buying a subwoofer with the amount of money invested.

 

[lsiberian]

I modeled the driver in question here. I would suggest a new/different driver. It will begin exceeding xmax (Using 80 watts rms simulated) at just 53 hz! This is a woofer, not a subwoofer. You will damage the driver if you use it in the intended design. You also reach audible vent compression with 2 3" vents at around 27hz and it rises dramatically from there.

There are plenty better drivers that would work for you in that volume. One such option would be the JL Audio 12W1v2 which you could probably net around that price. You could use two 4" vents at 20.625" and keep the vent velocity below 17m/s. This will tune the enclosure to 24hz. This would also offer +/-3db response from 23hz-77hz from at least 106db. I would suggest an infrasonic filter 2nd order at 20hz to help protect the driver from passages below 20hz.

Keeping the same dimensions, the JL driver will easily meet the requirements you are after and then some.

Thanks for saving me from having to model this.

Next time you want to make a decision like this try consulting us before you buy the driver and build the box. If you want a great sub it can certainly be put together on a budget, but you need to start with a great driver that meets your needs.

 

[yepimonfire]

yea thanks for the advice, luckily i'm only out 20 bucks for the box, i think i am going to hold off on a sub right now and save up some more money before i try going at this, anymore advice would be helpful. as far as "modeling" what software are you guys using?

 

[annunaki]

yea thanks for the advice, luckily i'm only out 20 bucks for the box, i think i am going to hold off on a sub right now and save up some more money before i try going at this, anymore advice would be helpful. as far as "modeling" what software are you guys using?

WinIsd is a good place to start if you are looking at freeware. It is one of the more accurate I have used and have had very good results that are similar to my models.

 

[99buggers]

"Next time you want to make a decision like this try consulting us before you buy the driver and build the box"
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