What Sub for Family Room?

ma7rix13

ma7rix13

Junior Audioholic
So, the wifey has finally given the go ahead to build a sub for the main room. I am looking at a 8" or 10" speaker in a 'ok' sized enclosure (maybe 24'"x24"x12" absolute MAX). No need for 120db @ 20 Hz. Just want a nice sounding sub that will not be overwhelming but better much better then the 1 cu. ft. Infinity BU-1 8" 50 watt POS with more port noise then an air horn...

Just wondering what people are using now-a-days for subs. I have always gone the JL Audio route but wanted to try something different, I was looking at:

TC Sounds Epic 10"
Infinity Reference 1062w
Infinity Kappa 100.9w
Dayton RSS210HF - 8"
Dayton RSS265HF - 10"

and (of course)

JL 8w1v2
JL 8w3v3
JL 8w7ae (haha, $450!)
JL 10w1v2
JL 10w3v3

Thanks,
Paul
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
the JL stuff is pretty pricy, and so is the TC stuff. Great drivers but IMO they kind of go over that threshold of cost to performance ratio.

Honestly, I don't think there's that many great 10" drivers. If I had to pick one, it would be the Creative Sound Solutions SDX-10:

Creative Sound - Product Details

But if you were willing to use a larger box, for virtually a similar cost you could get a CSS Trio 12 or a Peerless 830877, which I think is WELL worth it.

For example: 24"h x 14"w x 24"d will give internal dimensions of 22.5" x 12.5" 21.75" which is an internal volume of about 100L, and a pair of passive radiators, will work VERY well. Just get this kit:

Creative Sound - Product Details

Which is designed for exactly 92L.
 
ma7rix13

ma7rix13

Junior Audioholic
Wow, thanks Granteed, that is exactly what I needed. I always wanted to build a kit with passive radiators, and that price is much more affordable...

How would something like this sound? The plot looks very nice, almost exactly the same as my 7 cu ft. JL13.5 in 1/8 the box!

Thanks,

Any other recommendations out there?
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
Wow, thanks Granteed, that is exactly what I needed. I always wanted to build a kit with passive radiators, and that price is much more affordable...

How would something like this sound? The plot looks very nice, almost exactly the same as my 7 cu ft. JL13.5 in 1/8 the box!
IN general, Shorting Ring Optimized and XBL^2 drivers should maintain their composure for a good bit of their rated throw, so within its limits I can't imagine you being able to reliably tell the difference between the two drivers themselves (it would have more to do with in-room frequency response and box tuning, and with those APR12 passive radiators you can mess with tuning on the fly). As long as the JL 13w1 has shorting rings i'd imagine they're more similar than not. If it doesn't, it's possible the distortion signature of the JL will make it a more "audible" subwoofer since our ears can hear distortion more readily than pure bass. I've never heard the w1s so i couldn't tell you.

The 13w1 tuned to 20hz in 7 cu ft, fed 350w, plus a 17hz 4th order filter (which is what it takes to hit its xmax of 13mm in that box) is realistically within two db of the Trio 12 tuned to 21hz fed 500w with an 18hz 3rd order high pass filter (which is what's built into the bash amp to my knowledge), so the limits are pretty similar too as far as I can tell.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I also would agree with GranteedEV. The CSS setups are very nice indeed for the money.

The Dayton's with the AE speakers passive radiators will model almost identically to the CSS as well.

Very high quality cost effective options!!


The JL's are also great but I like them better (in the W6v2 & W7) for higher end applications. However as a product line they are excellent top to bottom.
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top