I've noticed that the sound can get a little muddy when there is lots of stuff going on like parts of DSOTM and the latter parts of Bolero where all the instruments are playing forte.
In my limited experiences, transparency is perhaps the one commonly singular aspect that comes with greater price. My impression is that this is true in comparison to imaging, soundstage, ability to crank, pleasing coloration, bass handling, etc. But, what do I know...
When I start to audition replacement speakers, I have some ideas what to listen for, given the above. What I want to know is can I improve my speakers without spending a fortune? I could budget $8-900/pair (or more) for satellites and surrounds provided I wait until 2009. I have to wonder if that's really necessary..
Only
you can be the judge of that.
To me, nearly all speakers sound good when you listen to them in a showroom and it's only after you've lived with them for awhile do you begin to notice one or two things that you think could be better..
You're lucky enough to be spoiled with only excellent showrooms. I heard one room with BW 802s (which I do think are fantastic), powered with Krell monoblocks, and I thought all of the tweeters were blown (seriously, I even asked). Unbelieveably bad setup...
What I do want to comment on (and have others do as well) is the quoted portion of your post. I see remarks to that effect time and time again and it just doesn't make sense to me. Take for example, the discussion of Polk speakers (higher end RTi line - like RTi10/12 and the LSI). People will always comment that 'these speakers really need a lot of power to sound their best'.
Now I know that people think that a 200 wpc separate amp will always sound better than a receiver even though that amp will only be pushing a few watts to a few tens of watts at moderate listening levels. Doesn't the idea that a given speaker needs a lot of power imply that they sound like garbage at low levels? That certain speakers don't sound good at all at low to moderate levels but somehow really shine when pushed to concert levels?
It doesn't make any sense to me and I for one cannot imagine buying any speakers that only sound 'good' at 100 dB SPL because I rarely ever want to crank it up that high.
To be honest, I never really cared too much about the wattage, as important as that might be. I think the most important thing for me in selecting was current/amperage. I would like my amp to have greater power when the impedance curve asks for it, rather than giving the speaker less when it wants it the most. I wonder how many receivers out there that can increase power with load.
Let me say that more expensive speaker systems have drivers with heavier magnets and larger, heavier and better braced enclosures. The better drivers are less important than the enclosures themselves. Cheap drivers in a great enclosure will sound better than expensive drivers in a poor one.
When you spend more money for speakers at any given level, you are usually paying for larger drivers and larger enclosures to get more bass. At different levels you are paying for better drivers and heavier, better braced enclosures to reduce resonances and distortion.
Those are the tradeoffs unless you spend a lot of money to have both better and larger drivers with larger, heavier, better braced enclosures.
Im really glad that the cabinet has been touched upon. One would think (or
I would previously
assume) that an inert cabinet cannot be that difficult or expensive to build. Right? Wrong!? A simply knock test shows such different inertness among speakers. I could break an entry-level Polk with my fist, and conversely a BW 802 would break my fist. In between, other mid-line models (PSB, MA, etc) have an inertness somewhere in between. Simple test with simple results!
I guess what we all want is speakers that accurately reproduce the sound at normal listening levels and maybe for the few times we want to crank it up. Given that you can spend an almost unlimited amount of money pursuing ever diminishing returns, I wonder where to draw the line.
How much better is an $8-900/pair speaker than a $400/pair speaker? Those would be the price points I'm considering.
Did I mention...
Only you can be the judge of that. Let's assume that this diminishing returns has a certain slope on a certain graph. The thing is, this slope is not perfectly even or ruler-flat. That jumping up to one model for a few hundred more might give you only a perceived marginal difference, while doubling the price for a certain model might give you double the pleasure... You will get plenty of different impressions once you start hitting the stores up...
The surround channels are the least important. I would recommend investing a larger ratio of money into the L, R and Center, and then go with the lowest price, but decent speakers for the surround channels if you want to maximize the perceived quality relative to monetary investment. There seems to be a turning point where about $1000-$1500 per small 2 way speaker seems to get substantially better cabinets and crossovers overall for many brands. So, as an example of the ratio difference I intend: perhaps invest in $1000-$1500 on each L, R and Center units($3000-$4500 total) and buy some $150-$200 each decent entry level quality bookshelf speakers for the rear and side surround channels. Pair this stuff up with some moderate quality subwoofers(multiple smaller units suggested over a single large unit in order to increase room response linearity).
+1. One of main towers cost
twenty times than that of one of my surrounds. Again, this was actually not originally intended, but the path that I ended up thinking was best...
A 4 ohm 86dB @ 1watt/meter speaker needs large amounts of power to handle the load if a higher spl is needed. If only listening at moderate levels a small 50 watt per channel integrated or receiver would get you by fine with that kind of speaker. That doesn't mean the speaker won't sound very good at lower volumes because it is power hungry, but at lower levels of output it will make the amplifier work harder than a more efficient more even/easy loaded speaker would.
Some of the best speakers in the world are extremely difficult to drive with anything but a Class A amplifier, but they still sound great at lower levels of output.
+1. If I am ever lucky (maybe next year?) to have a dedicated 2-ch room,
and decide on SS for a 2-ch amp, Im going to buy A+A/B. (drooling). I'll want a better pre-amp before that anyways.... doot doot...
Thanks all for the great thread...