Projector screen mounting question?

[Soundman]

OK. I know I may sound a little ignorant, but I'm trying to figure out the best solution for mounting my Panoview 106" projector screen. The screen weighs about 70 lbs. I could mount it fresh against the wall or use hooks to ceiling mount it. The problem is that I'm not much of a handy man and want to make sure it is done correctly. The screen did not come with any hardware. There are 2 wholes in the back of the medal casing, one on each side, for mounting against the wall. And there are 2 loops on the top of each side that can be used for hanging from the ceiling. This projector is the manual pull-down type. I'm concerned about making sure that once mounted it is secure. I know ceiling mounting can be a hassle if you can't find a beam to screw into. I'd prefer a solution where I can just screw something in, hang it, and start watching movies, if this is possible.As I mentioned before, I'm not much of a handy man and don't know much about construction or hardware. So, if there's anyone out there who can help, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[mtrycrafts]

OK. I know I may sound a little ignorant, but I'm trying to figure out the best solution for mounting my Panoview 106" projector screen. The screen weighs about 70 lbs. I could mount it fresh against the wall or use hooks to ceiling mount it. The problem is that I'm not much of a handy man and want to make sure it is done correctly. The screen did not come with any hardware. There are 2 wholes in the back of the medal casing, one on each side, for mounting against the wall. And there are 2 loops on the top of each side that can be used for hanging from the ceiling. This projector is the manual pull-down type. I'm concerned about making sure that once mounted it is secure. I know ceiling mounting can be a hassle if you can't find a beam to screw into. I'd prefer a solution where I can just screw something in, hang it, and start watching movies, if this is possible.As I mentioned before, I'm not much of a handy man and don't know much about construction or hardware. So, if there's anyone out there who can help, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

If it is a fixed screen, not a roll up and down, mounting on the wall would be best. You certainly need to mount it to studs. And hopefully centered on that wall. The height is also needs to be settled on or your neck will be sore if you are looking up.

Hopefully those two holes are at the same distance as the studs which are on 16" center, usually. Or, you may have to screw a runner on the studs, wood or steel, to mount the screen frame to.

How far will the projector pull down from the ceiling?

 

[Soundman]

Thanks for the help. The screen is not fixed. it is a manual pull down. So it should pull down approximately 45 inches or so. Not sure where the studs are. I'll have to look into that. Not sure how to tell where they are? I'm thinking that wall mounting might be the better choice since I have plenty of hight to work with. I have a vaulted ceiling. Now for wall mounting, I'm wondering what type of hardware would be best to use. Any suggestions there? Thanks again.

 

[mtrycrafts]

Thanks for the help. The screen is not fixed. it is a manual pull down. So it should pull down approximately 45 inches or so. Not sure where the studs are. I'll have to look into that. Not sure how to tell where they are? I'm thinking that wall mounting might be the better choice since I have plenty of hight to work with. I have a vaulted ceiling. Now for wall mounting, I'm wondering what type of hardware would be best to use. Any suggestions there? Thanks again.

Hardware stores sell stud finders. Is the wall Sheetrock covered? Wall paper or just texture and paint. Studs are 1.5" wide but you should try to locate the center or the bolt will not hold well if it finds the edge.
A little work and you should find all the studs in the area where you are planning to mount the screen. place a small sticky or tape at each one.
Once you have distance between the mounting holes on the screen, hopefully the location of the studs and the distance between the holes line up and centered on the wall. If not, need some modification to mounting and may have some tips.
How big are the mounting holes, 1/4" dia? Where is the whole exactly on the screen box, on the metal covering for the screen? Is this thin metal? Can you get to it to place a lag bolt through it, or need to disassemble it?
What tools do you have access to?
Is there an on-line diagram of your screen and box at the maker that you can link to?

 

[BMXTRIX]

It is highly unlikely, if the screen is manual, that it weighs more than about 30 pounds or so and standard drywall anchors should be more than sufficient.

If you go to Home Depot or some other hardware store you will find a product called EZ Toggle which are similar to toggle bolts but offer greater weight capcity, without a hole that a bolt can fall through. You just drill a hole (they'll tell you what size) and then slide the EZ Toggle in then you have a secure hole that the bolt can go into as deep as you need it to. Then just hang the screen on it.

If you look at the image below, this was my old 106" diagonal manual screen and it is on L brackets that are just using standard drywall anchors. No issues at all with the screen... though it was replaced with an in-ceiling electric model.

If you are super paranoid of the weight, then you can always get a 1"x1/2" piece of wood from the hardware store, cut it to screen length, screw it into the studs on the wall, and then hang the screen from that. It will ensure proper support.

 

[Soundman]

It is highly unlikely, if the screen is manual, that it weighs more than about 30 pounds or so and standard drywall anchors should be more than sufficient.

If you go to Home Depot or some other hardware store you will find a product called EZ Toggle which are similar to toggle bolts but offer greater weight capcity, without a hole that a bolt can fall through. You just drill a hole (they'll tell you what size) and then slide the EZ Toggle in then you have a secure hole that the bolt can go into as deep as you need it to. Then just hang the screen on it.

If you look at the image below, this was my old 106" diagonal manual screen and it is on L brackets that are just using standard drywall anchors. No issues at all with the screen... though it was replaced with an in-ceiling electric model.

If you are super paranoid of the weight, then you can always get a 1"x1/2" piece of wood from the hardware store, cut it to screen length, screw it into the studs on the wall, and then hang the screen from that. It will ensure proper support.

Thanks for the advise and the great pic. I'm not exactly sure of the weight, but the shipping weight was 70lbs when it was sent to me. However, the screen you used as an example is the same size as mine so I assume they should be similar in weight. I'll look into the EZ Toggle like you said. It seems like an easy solution. However, you said your screen was on "L" brackets. Should that be used, or just a standard bolt? I just want to make sure I'm clear about what you're saying before I try it. Thanks again.

 

[UFCLuvah]

I like the L brackets myself so that the screen comes down slightly in front of my Plasma, rather than the screen dangling from the ceiling for this setup, which will be exactly the way mine will be setup in 2 months time.

I have the screen currently mounted upstairs in this PC room using Molly bolts...Problem is, you have to drill 3\16 holes and its very ez to loose them in the wall LOL (i lost one)

 

[Soundman]

I like the L brackets myself so that the screen comes down slightly in front of my Plasma, rather than the screen dangling from the ceiling for this setup, which will be exactly the way mine will be setup in 2 months time.

I have the screen currently mounted upstairs in this PC room using Molly bolts...Problem is, you have to drill 3\16 holes and its very ez to loose them in the wall LOL (i lost one)

Thanks for the suggestion. So can you use EZ Toggle with "L" brackets I wonder? I haven't seen this EZ Toggle product before and am just wondering if you have to use a standard bolt with it for it to work? I'd like to only have to mount this once, so looking for the best solution, if possible.

 

[UFCLuvah]

I am pretty sure you could use those + L- Brackets. The EZ toggles come with their own bolts....these EZ toggles are like the molly bolts I used but better from what I have seen using google.

I am in the same boat as you, I want to find the best way possible to mount the screen into the drywall and allow for day to day endurance (from pulling screen up/down)

 

[BMXTRIX]

Not EZ Toggle, but EZ Anchor, I said it wrong... (see image below)

It can be done either way. I recommend NOT using an L-Bracket unless you require the screen to come down in front of a plasma. Until I got my plasma, I simply used 2 EZ Anchors and the screen was up against the wall. When I got the plasma, I needed a solution, and that was the L-Brackets which are standard shelf brackets from Home Depot. If you want, I can see if I still have them as I put an eye bolt through each L-Bracket, then a locking chain piece to hold the screen by the hooks on top of the screen in place. Took about 20 minutes or so... give or take... to get it hung.

Then I switched to an in-ceiling electric screen which took about 6+ hours to install.

 

[mtrycrafts]

I want to find the best way possible to mount the screen into the drywall and allow for day to day endurance (from pulling screen up/down)

That is why I like to bolt it into a stud, or if they are not at the right location, wood cleats bolted to the studs then mount it on that cleat. If you use this latter method, you can buy 'T'-nuts mounted from the back and machine crews.

 

[Soundman]

Not EZ Toggle, but EZ Anchor, I said it wrong... (see image below)

It can be done either way. I recommend NOT using an L-Bracket unless you require the screen to come down in front of a plasma. Until I got my plasma, I simply used 2 EZ Anchors and the screen was up against the wall. When I got the plasma, I needed a solution, and that was the L-Brackets which are standard shelf brackets from Home Depot. If you want, I can see if I still have them as I put an eye bolt through each L-Bracket, then a locking chain piece to hold the screen by the hooks on top of the screen in place. Took about 20 minutes or so... give or take... to get it hung.

Then I switched to an in-ceiling electric screen which took about 6+ hours to install.

Wow! That really clears things up. I think the best solution is the EZ Anchor. Thanks for clarifying the name! The pic should come in handy as well when I go looking for it. I don't have a plasma or any kind of wall hanging display in the room. This room will only be used with the HT screen. I'll try to keep this open in case I run into any problems once I get started on it. THANKS AGAIN!

 

[Soundman]

Not EZ Toggle, but EZ Anchor, I said it wrong... (see image below)

It can be done either way. I recommend NOT using an L-Bracket unless you require the screen to come down in front of a plasma. Until I got my plasma, I simply used 2 EZ Anchors and the screen was up against the wall. When I got the plasma, I needed a solution, and that was the L-Brackets which are standard shelf brackets from Home Depot. If you want, I can see if I still have them as I put an eye bolt through each L-Bracket, then a locking chain piece to hold the screen by the hooks on top of the screen in place. Took about 20 minutes or so... give or take... to get it hung.

Then I switched to an in-ceiling electric screen which took about 6+ hours to install.

I ended up getting the E-Z Toggle, not E-Z Ancor b/c the E-Z Toggle supports more weight. I figured it would be better. Is there any reason to go with the E-Z Ancor? The E-Z Toggle supports 90lbs, whereas the E-Z Ancor supports 50lbs. Just wondering why you recomended the E-Z Ancor instead. Will there be much difference? Just wanted to see what you thought. I haven't tried it yet.....just haven't had time, but will probably have it all set up this week. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

 

[BMXTRIX]

EZ Toggle bolts are a pain in the a$$.

This image, the first that pops up on Google, pretty accurately describes the poor design of this product.

I have a bunch of them left after I tried using 2 of them, and immediately went back to EZ Anchors.

 

[Soundman]

EZ Toggle bolts are a pain in the a$$.

This image, the first that pops up on Google, pretty accurately describes the poor design of this product.

I have a bunch of them left after I tried using 2 of them, and immediately went back to EZ Anchors.

Oh! Well, after seeing that, I'm thinking I should go back to Home Depot and get the E-Z Ancors instead. My only concern is whether it will supoort the weight. The screen weighs at least 60lbs (not sure but the shipping weight was 70lbs), and E-Z ancors are for up to 50lbs. So, I got the toggles b/c they support 90lbs. That was my thinking. Hmmm, what to do?

 

[BMXTRIX]

I can say that I used EZ Anchors on my 106" manual screen without issue.

The best may be these:

Which I can't find a name on, but I picked some up at Home Depot. They have some of the highest weight ratings available and are almost as easy to use as EZ-Anchors...

Found it...

Toggler brand toggle bolts:
www.toggler.com

Their 'light duty' ones are rated to 80 pounds!

Keep in mind that is 80 pounds PER TOGGLE so, a 100 pound screen would deliver 50 to each toggle and there tends to be a margin for safety in there as well.

This is the video for the ones I have pictured above - these are rated at 265 pounds!
http://toggler.com/products_hwh_installation.html

Good stuff!

 

[Soundman]

I can say that I used EZ Anchors on my 106" manual screen without issue.

The best may be these:

Which I can't find a name on, but I picked some up at Home Depot. They have some of the highest weight ratings available and are almost as easy to use as EZ-Anchors...

Found it...

Toggler brand toggle bolts:
www.toggler.com

Their 'light duty' ones are rated to 80 pounds!

Keep in mind that is 80 pounds PER TOGGLE so, a 100 pound screen would deliver 50 to each toggle and there tends to be a margin for safety in there as well.

This is the video for the ones I have pictured above - these are rated at 265 pounds!
http://toggler.com/products_hwh_installation.html

Good stuff!

great option. Nice video! I actually did pick up the E-Z Ancors today. If I feel uncomfortable with them, at least I know there is a simple alternative. Thanks for the info.

 

[Soundman]

I mounted the screen yesterday. I don't have a pic, but I will say it looks fantastic! The E-Z Ancors are doing just fine and everything looks very secure. Thanks everyone for all your input and support. Now, If you'll excuse me, there's some movies I need to watch!!!!

 

[StevePS]

Mounting Hardware

I had a hard time finding anything that matched the look I was going for.. so I went to Home Depot and found a towel hanger with a brushed aluminum finish, bought 10' of 3/8" stranded cable, fasteners for the cable, a couple springs made for outdoor gates, and bolt to screw the cable in to the joist with. I'm not very mechanically inclined but like I said I just couldn't find anything. I secured the cable to the joist with the bolt, attached it to the proj screen using the fasteners, put the spring in between (painted it black b/c my screen has a black case) and then glued the towel hanger to the ceiling. I wanted to make it adjustable and use pulleys and stuff but that got over my head.. couldn't find any kind of adjustable cable clamps that would have made that possible.

The look is similar to that brushed aluminum pendant lighting, except I'm hanging a projector screen from it. I almost just bought a cpl pendant lights for the cosmetic brushed finished look I was going for, but the cheapest I could find was 80 bucks each. The pieced together set-up I put together was under $40.