M

MStrickland1988

Audioholic Intern
Hey everyone I'm new to the forum and need some help. I'm building a DIY sub in a 10.33 cubic foot (hopefully 9.35 net) enclosure with a Dayton audio reference high-fidelity 15". I guess the figures you would need to know are 14mm xmas and it should reach that at around 300 watts in this enclosure. It will be tuned to 18 hz. My friend with a lot of sub knowledge recommended a single 6" internal diameter port with a length of 20.5 inches. The problem is I really don't like the look of a single port but am willing to go that route if my other options can not handle the air pressure. My options with WinIsd mach calculations include: (4) 3" ports 19" length .02 mach. (2) 4" ports 19" length .05 mach. (2) 4.5" ports 24.5" length .04 mach. Finally, the least desirable, 6" port 20.25 length .09 mach. I can't find any of these sizes online with a length as long as any of the ones listed, longest I've found is 17". Anyway, I really could use some help as I guess there are some variables I don't know about? Also, if anyone would like to construct my box I will compensate you fairly for time and materials. I live outside Cleveland, Ohio. Anyone know where to get longer ports than 17" All responses are very appreciated.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Hey everyone I'm new to the forum and need some help. I'm building a DIY sub in a 10.33 cubic foot (hopefully 9.35 net) enclosure with a Dayton audio reference high-fidelity 15". I guess the figures you would need to know are 14mm xmas and it should reach that at around 300 watts in this enclosure. It will be tuned to 18 hz. My friend with a lot of sub knowledge recommended a single 6" internal diameter port with a length of 20.5 inches. The problem is I really don't like the look of a single port but am willing to go that route if my other options can not handle the air pressure. My options with WinIsd mach calculations include: (4) 3" ports 19" length .02 mach. (2) 4" ports 19" length .05 mach. (2) 4.5" ports 24.5" length .04 mach. Finally, the least desirable, 6" port 20.25 length .09 mach. I can't find any of these sizes online with a length as long as any of the ones listed, longest I've found is 17". Anyway, I really could use some help as I guess there are some variables I don't know about? Also, if anyone would like to construct my box I will compensate you fairly for time and materials. I live outside Cleveland, Ohio. Anyone know where to get longer ports than 17" All responses are very appreciated.
This is the box you need for that driver. It takes a slot vent. A tube vent will have an air vent velocity that is much too high. Volume of driver, braces vent and amp need to be added to Vb so it will come out around 10 cu. ft by the time you are done.
 
M

MStrickland1988

Audioholic Intern
So that box is pretty much the same volume but the tuning is lower and has a slot port?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
So that box is pretty much the same volume but the tuning is lower and has a slot port?
Yes that is the optimal box. Fb 16.29 Hz and F3 is 19 Hz.

The port could benefit by being a little bigger. A 3" X 12" X 37' port gives a vent velocity of 16 m/sec. Velocities below 18 m/sec are optimal. Your 6' diameter vent would need to be 28" long, apart from not fitting in the box, vent velocity would be too high and chuff.

That driver vented has to have a slot vent. It is a good project and will be an excellent sub.
 
M

MStrickland1988

Audioholic Intern
My idea for the enclosure design was 40h x 19w x 28 d. That gives me a gross cubic feet of 10.33 but with the driver and slot port displacement that should be around 9 cubic feet I'm guessing? How long would the slot port have to be if it had a width of 17.5"?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
My idea for the enclosure design was 40h x 19w x 28 d. That gives me a gross cubic feet of 10.33 but with the driver and slot port displacement that should be around 9 cubic feet I'm guessing? How long would the slot port have to be if it had a width of 17.5"?
You can make your vent 17.5" X 2" X 37"

Your Vb is 8.93 Cu.ft. The driver displaces 0.3 cu.ft. and your vent is 1.1 cu.ft. So that gets us to 10.33 cu.ft. To obtain Vt you still have to add the brace volume which will depend on your design. Don't stint the bracing. The damping material which needs to cover 50% of the internal surface area is allowed for by Box Pro.

If you think the box volume is getting too large you buy an extra driver and use them in isobarik configuration. VAS is halved and Vb is halved. However you have a bigger slot vent, and the connecting driver tunnel to add to Vb to get Vt. But you will get a smaller box with the same result. However there is not free lunch as the second driver does not add to spl, and you loose 3db sensitivity, so you need twice the amp power for the same spl.
 
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M

MStrickland1988

Audioholic Intern
The driver should only displace around .1 cubic feet. I saw specs for a 15" with a 57 pound magnet and it displaced 1.2 so I don't think the Dayton will displace .3 feet. I don't want a port that long so I'll play around in Boxnotes I suppose. Thanks for the recomendation for another driver but I'm just going to stick to this design because I've found drivers I could upgrade to in the future that work well in this enclosure.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
The driver should only displace around .1 cubic feet. I saw specs for a 15" with a 57 pound magnet and it displaced 1.2 so I don't think the Dayton will displace .3 feet. I don't want a port that long so I'll play around in Boxnotes I suppose. Thanks for the recomendation for another driver but I'm just going to stick to this design because I've found drivers I could upgrade to in the future that work well in this enclosure.
The data in Box Pro is very reliable and it says that driver displaces 0.29 cu. ft. That sounds right to me for a 15" driver.
 
M

MStrickland1988

Audioholic Intern
TLS guy, I have a question about the sealed box design you did. With the 12db/octave boost at 40hz does that mean it will be nearly flat to 20hz? At what SPL would the driver reach xmas? I have a Klipsch RT-10d now so I'm sure it would perform better regardless for low bass. Also, I ordered this EQ from elemental designs, it can do the boost, right? http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_123&products_id=657
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
TLS guy, I have a question about the sealed box design you did. With the 12db/octave boost at 40hz does that mean it will be nearly flat to 20hz? At what SPL would the driver reach xmas? I have a Klipsch RT-10d now so I'm sure it would perform better regardless for low bass. Also, I ordered this EQ from elemental designs, it can do the boost, right? http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_123&products_id=657
I don't see where that unit has the ability to roll off below a certain frequency to prevent driver damage. That is why the Behringer unit has been so popular with members. I would start to apply the subsonic filter at 25 Hz. Don't get too greedy.

That driver is really intended for a sealed application I think.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I don't see where that unit has the ability to roll off below a certain frequency to prevent driver damage. That is why the Behringer unit has been so popular with members. I would start to apply the subsonic filter at 25 Hz. Don't get too greedy.

That driver is really intended for a sealed application I think.
One thing you need to be aware of if you go sealed. That is a budget driver and a good sealed driver can not be made on the cheap.

Before Eq that driver is close to Xmax at 25 Hz. So when you add the Eq to extend the response 12 db per octave, the average level has to be lowered by 10 to 12 db to prevent driver bottoming and damage.

Since the db scale is log, the sealed enclosure will sound only half as loud as the ported. To have the same output as the ported, the driver would have to be able to handle 10 times the power, which it can't.

To make a really good sealed sub takes a very expensive driver with a huge xmax spec (over 40mm), and a driver voice coil than can handle kilowatts of power. That does not come cheap.

What this boils down to is that if resources are tight then you get much better value for money with a ported, TL or especially a horn design. However you need a bigger, box especially for the latter two. A horn sub for instance needs very little amp power. Matt 34 has just built one with a 12" Dayton sub, and he could drive it with a very small amp.

This occurs because in a sealed sub all the air movement has to be produced by the driver which is very inefficient in coupling to the air. Helmholtz resonators, pipes and horns are acoustic transformers, and radiate the LF from ports, pipe openings, and horn mouths much more efficiently than a driver cone, especially horns.

A sealed sub requires a "brute force and ignorance" approach so to speak, however that does not mean to say that given enough resources they can't sound very good.
 
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