New TV

[ParadigmDawg]

Any thoughts on the Panasonic TC-50PS14? BB has it for ~900 bucks.

I am just looking for an inexpensive TV to replace the bedroom plasma which is the old 720p, TH-50X60U.

My goal is to move the old one to the patio and just put a fair-good one in the bedroom. We have HD in there but only watch about 30 minutes of TV per night in there.

I would assume a LCD would be better outside but I don't want to dish out that much money.

Thoughts?

 

[jostenmeat]

Sounds like it will work. I'm more worried for the TV outside, with possible condensation, and just the outdoor elements/temperature in general, but OTOH I wouldn't be surprised if it lasted for a while out there. Just try to take care of it out there I guess, perhaps with some cover during non-use.

You can use search functions in the TV subforum, or just ask me, and I can link/post/pm some recommended SM offsets. YMMV due to unit to unit variation, etc, but most if not all people who do them are pretty pleased.

Lastly, you might consider waiting for the 2010 models to roll out, if only due to the videophile complaints about '09 Pana plasma rising in black level. AFAIK, this is caused by voltage increases, by design, to counteract phosphor wear, but they seem to work poorly/prematurely according to some cases. I am sure Pana might keep this stuff close to the chest, and perhaps it only happens with models from earlier production runs, who knows. REALLY THOUGH, if for 30 min a night, I wonder if you guys would notice if you even had one of the problematic sets.

If you need it now, want a 50", want a plasma, then go for it.

 

[bandphan]

Sounds like it will work. I'm more worried for the TV outside, with possible condensation, and just the outdoor elements/temperature in general, but OTOH I wouldn't be surprised if it lasted for a while out there. Just try to take care of it out there I guess, perhaps with some cover during non-use.

You can use search functions in the TV subforum, or just ask me, and I can link/post/pm some recommended SM offsets. YMMV due to unit to unit variation, etc, but most if not all people who do them are pretty pleased.

.

With Dawg's negotiating skills he will probably pay $550 for it and wouldn't care when it bits the dust

 

[jostenmeat]

With Dawg's negotiating skills he will probably pay $550 for it and wouldn't care when it bits the dust

mmmmm, good point.

 

[adwilk]

With Dawg's negotiating skills he will probably pay $550 for it and wouldn't care when it bits the dust

PAY? BS! Somebody is paying him to take it off their hands. I bet he gets a bottle of Scotch and a BJ out of the deal too. Oh wait, the monkey is stuck in the storm in the northeast.



Too much?

 

[bandphan]

Too much?

Na, He is smooth

 

[adwilk]

Could've sworn I removed that photo from my personal photobucket account... dammit

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Funny guys.

I know the elements will take toll on it outside but if I can get 2 or 3 years out of it, I will be more than happy.

I may just go back to the store and pick out the cheapest 50" they have.

 

[adwilk]

I think thats your best bet. I've seen a 50" panny at sears and whatnot for 699. Couldn't tell you the model, but its last years. I would also check craigslist. Its amazing how many people are dumping panels due to the economy and whatnot. I'm sure theres a killer deal somewhere.

 

[highfigh]

I think thats your best bet. I've seen a 50" panny at sears and whatnot for 699. Couldn't tell you the model, but its last years. I would also check craigslist. Its amazing how many people are dumping panels due to the economy and whatnot. I'm sure theres a killer deal somewhere.

That's the TC-P50X1, which is the model sold through wholesale clubs. It's OK, not great. The S1 is better and does 1080P. Anything above those models G/V/U are even better but you'll need to decide how much better you want. The THX mode makes it dimmer, which some think is useless but in a theater, the lighting is very low, so it doesn't need to be as bright. If the room is never totally dark, the THX mode will be useless and the money spent will be wasted.

 

[HDPCsound]

You can have a used one for $800 at amazon, i consider it as a good 1080 display, it has a great moving resolution.

 

[ScottWChicago]

I would say the s14 is very close to the s1. I think BB has run out of most of panny's, New models out soon.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

I went ahead and got the Panny. Turned out difficult to find but finally chased one down, which I believe was the last one in Texas.

Tomorrow, I will ask more questions around using zone two video for the TV that will retire to outside duty.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Can someone walk me through the best way to get video outside?

AVR is Denon 3808CI, I have zone 1 in my main room as 5.1, Zone 2 is the patio and is just 2 speakers, Zone 3 is in the bedroom and is 2 speakers controled by Niles IntelliTouch.

I will have the old plasma going to patio duty. I want to just run it from my AVR . I am looking for the best possible signal and would like the audio to go through the zone like it does now.

Do I just use zone 2 video? It seems like that may be composite, which would not provide a good video signal.

Can I run redundant component from the main zone and have that work out there?

Heck, forget my questions and just tell me the best way to do this.

AT&T will be here on Monday to hook up U-Verse and I am planning on just getting 2 set-top boxes but if I can't run through the AVR properly, I can add a 3 box.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

I take it, I'm waiting on BMXTRIX, HighLander or Garcia to help with this...

 

[bandphan]

I take it, I'm waiting on BMXTRIX, HighLander or Garcia to help with this...

Wait then

 

[ParadigmDawg]

...ummmm....or....Bandphan...ummm...or anyone who knows about this stuff....

Wait then

 

[BMXTRIX]

Well, you already have audio, so if you want video you can do it a few ways but the best way would be with a matrix video switcher... Which really isn't necessarily convenient, or cheap, but does a heck of a job.

I'm guessing you are using HDMI for everything, so you may still have component video outputs available from your HD boxes which you could run individually to the displays or run through a separate component video switcher. (not to much cash)

I personally use a Extron 12x8 RGBHV switcher for all my video and digital audio. I use RGB for component video and H for digital audio. That gives me up to 12 component HD sources and up to 8 displays in my home over component video. Works well, but I've recently purchased a Monoprice HDMI 4x4 matrix switcher. I'm not convinced of how well it will work and I'm running all new HDMI cables to all my displays as I finish my basement and we'll see if it works or not. I'm not holding my breath.

For my critical HD viewing (Blu-ray) I use HDMI to my main display and a HDMI splitter to also send it to my projector. Not the one from Monoprice but some no-name one which does a good job for whatever reason.

Really though, you could just run video direct from your sources to the display if you have the inputs available on the display and the sources have dual outputs.

ie: Run HDMI from the box to the receiver, run component from the box to the TV at the patio. It MAY work... it may not. My AppleTV will not output HDMI and component at the same time. The Panasonic BD60 WILL, but won't output at 1080p over HDMI if you do this. My FIOS box I have no tested yet, but will be doing so soon enough.

You definitely don't have to go down to composite, though that's the best output available for zone 2 from the AVR. You just have to go with some video switching or cabling separate from the AVR... and there are a bunch of choices.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Thanks BMX.

Let me kick around a few of the options and then I may have more questions.

Well, you already have audio, so if you want video you can do it a few ways but the best way would be with a matrix video switcher... Which really isn't necessarily convenient, or cheap, but does a heck of a job.

I'm guessing you are using HDMI for everything, so you may still have component video outputs available from your HD boxes which you could run individually to the displays or run through a separate component video switcher. (not to much cash)

I personally use a Extron 12x8 RGBHV switcher for all my video and digital audio. I use RGB for component video and H for digital audio. That gives me up to 12 component HD sources and up to 8 displays in my home over component video. Works well, but I've recently purchased a Monoprice HDMI 4x4 matrix switcher. I'm not convinced of how well it will work and I'm running all new HDMI cables to all my displays as I finish my basement and we'll see if it works or not. I'm not holding my breath.

For my critical HD viewing (Blu-ray) I use HDMI to my main display and a HDMI splitter to also send it to my projector. Not the one from Monoprice but some no-name one which does a good job for whatever reason.

Really though, you could just run video direct from your sources to the display if you have the inputs available on the display and the sources have dual outputs.

ie: Run HDMI from the box to the receiver, run component from the box to the TV at the patio. It MAY work... it may not. My AppleTV will not output HDMI and component at the same time. The Panasonic BD60 WILL, but won't output at 1080p over HDMI if you do this. My FIOS box I have no tested yet, but will be doing so soon enough.

You definitely don't have to go down to composite, though that's the best output available for zone 2 from the AVR. You just have to go with some video switching or cabling separate from the AVR... and there are a bunch of choices.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Well, the UVerse set top box allows dual output. I tested with zone 2 video from my AVR and was shocked by how good it looks. Is it anywhere near HD?... no way but it may be just fine for outdoor duty.

I will use this free route for now and will come back for more solutions if it doesn't work out in the long run.

My $30 Monoprice wall bracket and some cables should be this afternoon. I will likely wait until it's a little warmer before I actually mount the display.

Thanks for the help.

Well, you already have audio, so if you want video you can do it a few ways but the best way would be with a matrix video switcher... Which really isn't necessarily convenient, or cheap, but does a heck of a job.

I'm guessing you are using HDMI for everything, so you may still have component video outputs available from your HD boxes which you could run individually to the displays or run through a separate component video switcher. (not to much cash)

I personally use a Extron 12x8 RGBHV switcher for all my video and digital audio. I use RGB for component video and H for digital audio. That gives me up to 12 component HD sources and up to 8 displays in my home over component video. Works well, but I've recently purchased a Monoprice HDMI 4x4 matrix switcher. I'm not convinced of how well it will work and I'm running all new HDMI cables to all my displays as I finish my basement and we'll see if it works or not. I'm not holding my breath.

For my critical HD viewing (Blu-ray) I use HDMI to my main display and a HDMI splitter to also send it to my projector. Not the one from Monoprice but some no-name one which does a good job for whatever reason.

Really though, you could just run video direct from your sources to the display if you have the inputs available on the display and the sources have dual outputs.

ie: Run HDMI from the box to the receiver, run component from the box to the TV at the patio. It MAY work... it may not. My AppleTV will not output HDMI and component at the same time. The Panasonic BD60 WILL, but won't output at 1080p over HDMI if you do this. My FIOS box I have no tested yet, but will be doing so soon enough.

You definitely don't have to go down to composite, though that's the best output available for zone 2 from the AVR. You just have to go with some video switching or cabling separate from the AVR... and there are a bunch of choices.