New box for TC-3000?

[bmccord]

Hey all, I am thinking about trying a new box out for my 15" TC-3000. As it is, its a 22" or so cube with twin PR's but I have never really like its musical side. It is just too narrow of a band. I was thinking of building a ported enclosure of the same footprint (obviously will be much taller). Do you think this is worth trying? It just seems like there is way too big of a gap between my mains and my sub. I also though about building twin sealed 10" dayton HFs and putting my mains on top of them. Dunno. I guess that is the bad thing of being an audio freak...what you have is never enough...until your friends com over and drool.

 

[annunaki]

What are you saying the sub is lacking?

What are your crossover points?

How many subs do you have placed in the room?

Do you have an eq for the sub in the system?

What are the F3 points for your speakers and how many drivers are in them, as well as the size?

 

[bmccord]

What are you saying the sub is lacking? - I think the upper end drops off too fast and lower than my mains will go

What are your crossover points? - I believe i have it set at 60 Hz and my fronts are set to small (they distort with loud paino music if I have them set to large)

How many subs do you have placed in the room? - I just have the one 15" sub and it is corner loaded

Do you have an eq for the sub in the system? - No EQ at this point

What are the F3 points for your speakers and how many drivers are in them, as well as the size? - I am not sure anymore. The mains are Yami NS777's and have two 7' woofers, one 6" mid and a small tweeter. I think there advertised f3 is somewhere in the 40's.

Maybe I should just get some better mains and a separate amp to drive them... I seem to be asking my sub to do what my mains should handle.

 

[annunaki]

What are you saying the sub is lacking? - I think the upper end drops off too fast and lower than my mains will go

What are your crossover points? - I believe i have it set at 60 Hz and my fronts are set to small (they distort with loud paino music if I have them set to large)

How many subs do you have placed in the room? - I just have the one 15" sub and it is corner loaded

Do you have an eq for the sub in the system? - No EQ at this point

What are the F3 points for your speakers and how many drivers are in them, as well as the size? - I am not sure anymore. The mains are Yami NS777's and have two 7' woofers, one 6" mid and a small tweeter. I think there advertised f3 is somewhere in the 40's.

Maybe I should just get some better mains and a separate amp to drive them... I seem to be asking my sub to do what my mains should handle.

Here is what I would try, get the first two nailed out first. Then try the 3rd.

1. Experiment with the x-over point. Try it at 80hz to give you a bit more ooph in that region. There will be more amplifier available for the mains since they will be handling less bass duty for added dynamics.

2. Test the room (listening position). See if you have a null in response even with the sub off in that region. Try moving the sub to other locations within the room to see if that makes the difference.

3. Add an EQ. Smoothing the overall response will allow you to properly blend the subwoofer in with the rest of the system. The Behringer DCX 2496 is a phenomenal tool here, especially if you are running seperate amplifiers for mains. This area can work better than changing the enclosure alignment of the sub, especially since ported and PR alignments are very similar.

I would try these things prior to doing something drastic such as a new enclosure. Try them out & then get back to use with the results.

 

[WmAx]

1. Experiment with the x-over point. Try it at 80hz to give you a bit more ooph in that region. There will be more amplifier available for the mains since they will be handling less bass duty for added dynamics................



3. Add an EQ. Smoothing the overall response will allow you to properly blend the subwoofer in with the rest of the system. The Behringer DCX 2496 is a phenomenal tool here, especially if you are running seperate amplifiers for mains. This area can work better than changing the enclosure alignment of the sub, especially since ported and PR alignments are very similar.

I think it should be pointed out that the DCX is more important than just for E.Q. It is a FAR more capable crossover as compared to the one built into any receiver. One should use an outboard amp for the mains so that they can use the DCX for both the mains and sub(s); this will allow for ideal integration that just is not likely to occur by using the receiver's built in functions which are radically inferior compared to the DCX.

Bmmcord, whether you have the Yamaha economic speakers or B&W 802Ds, the DCX2496 is going to improve the situation as far as integrating and EQing the speaker systems. The DCX does not degrade the audio signal in ANY level of stereo system, so don't be worried about that. It also has dynamic EQ and limiters that you can set to protect drivers to prevent a signal exceeding a certain level/amplitude within a specific band, if you wanted to use these features. It is no single thing; it is a sophisticated loudspeaker management tool that can benefit virtually any stereo system of any price, even though the fact it is a professional audio tool may activate the imaginations of some silly audiophiles into believing they hear audio degradations that don't exist.

-Chris

 

[annunaki]

Chris,

I am quite aware of the DCX2496's substantial capabilities. Much appreciated!

 

[WmAx]

Chris,

I am quite aware of the DCX2496's substantial capabilities. Much appreciated!

Well, the information was not for you. I did not think you made it clear to the person you were messaging that the DCX had a very significant role in all aspects of integration.

-Chris

 

[bmccord]

Thanks guys. I looked into one a couple years back but a new model was coming out soon so I waited...and then it just got put on the back burner. I will have to look into these again.

Thanks again.