My Infinity Kappa Build

[pmcenaney]

So I've been lurking on this site for a while now and thought I'd better start an account since I decided to take the plunge and start building two Infinity Kappa cabinets, based on Andrew's "Simple" design.

After a couple of setbacks, I'm ready to get going again. My first attempt ended up in a couple of botched plywood cuts from the lumber yard (which I needed, in order to fit the wood in my vehicle), which led me to having to waste more plywood than I would've liked. Followed immediately by my basement flooding, ruining 3/4 of the plywood I had cut, and ready to be assembled. Sooo almost $200 later, I've got more plywood to start over again!

Unfortunately I can't get to it over the weekend, due to having other plans, so I plan to get started on it first thing next week.

I've just placed my order for the electronics, so I'll be expecting that to come in shortly. I can't wait to get these up and running!

I'm doing this build with the following:


Drivers:
2x Infinity Kappa Perfect 12d VQ (Already owned)

Amp:
Peavey IPR 1600

Receiver/Pre-amp:
Sony STR-DN610 (Already owned)


I'm going to attempt making my own SpeakON cables for the speaker connections due to the high price of prefab ones, so I've ordered a 100' roll of 12ga speaker wire, and four 2-pole SpeakON connectors to make two 50' cables for about $23 each!

The design of the cabinets is going to be very similar to Andrew's, with the only difference being, I've decided to 45° my edges to avoid seeing any plywood edges as well as avoiding the need for any edge banding or expensive veneer. I chose 3/4" Birch to build the cabinets with, and I'm going with a satin black stain. I also plan on making some cloth covers once I figure out the best way to do this!

All-in-all, this build will have cost me just under $600 Canadian, not including the items I already own, and having to buy the plywood twice...

I'll post photos of my progress as soon as I have them!


PS- I've read mixed reviews on whether I'd need to set up an EQ or not, it seems like the IPR 1600 comes with a fairly flexible built in EQ that's user-customizable.

Any tips/recommendations would be appreciated!


Thanks,

Patrick

 

[pmcenaney]

One question I forgot to add: I can't decide what method I'd like to use to assemble the outside of the cabinets... Im just going to glue and screw the inside portion, but for the outside i dont know if I like Glue and screw, glue and brad nail, glue and biscuit joint, or just glue. I like the idea of the latter two due to not having an affect on the surface of the wood, but I'm not sure about strength/ durability.

I'm 45'ing the joints on the outer portion of the cabinets.

 

[Swerd]

I can't decide what method I'd like to use to assemble the outside of the cabinets... Im just going to glue and screw the inside portion, but for the outside i dont know if I like Glue and screw, glue and brad nail, glue and biscuit joint, or just glue. I like the idea of the latter two due to not having an affect on the surface of the wood, but I'm not sure about strength/ durability.

I'm 45'ing the joints on the outer portion of the cabinets.

On any outside surfaces use glue and clamps, avoid using screws or brads.

Regardless of what kind of finish you choose, those screws heads will require filling and sanding above and beyond the sanding required for the rest of the surfaces. It may not seem like much extra work, but just about everyone who has used screws, later wishes he hadn't because of the extra filling and sanding work.

Wood glue is strong and durable if the joints fit together well and are properly clamped while the glue sets.

If you have 45° miter cuts, you can lay out all four pieces of the cabinet (side - back - side - front) like an open book, with the edges touching each other. Tape the full length of the edges with wide masking tape – as if the masking tape was the book binding. (I hope that is clear.)

Fold up the pieces, like closing a book. Then clamp.

Try this first without glue in a dry run. If you've never done this before, one or several practice runs can help you work much faster when you've put on the glue. Usually wood glue gives you about 10 or 15 minutes time to assemble and apply clamps. Dry runs let you discover fit or assembly problems before you've put on the glue.

 

[pmcenaney]

Thanks Swerd. I have decided that's probably the technique I'll use. Any tips for the best way to clamp it without the pieces sliding on the the 45? Set them in a square jig possibly? Or would that be necessary?

 

[panteragstk]

Thanks Swerd. I have decided that's probably the technique I'll use. Any tips for the best way to clamp it without the pieces sliding on the the 45? Set them in a square jig possibly? Or would that be necessary?

A square jig would be the easiest way. It's going to be difficult to clamp with the 45's so the dry run is a must as suggested. Do you already have clamps?

 

[pmcenaney]

A square jig would be the easiest way. It's going to be difficult to clamp with the 45's so the dry run is a must as suggested. Do you already have clamps?

I don't personally have any, I'm going to be building it at my uncles shop, so hopefully he has the clamps I'll need. I'm assuming once I do a couple dry runs, I'll just get the sides set in the jig and use probably two clamps in each direction?

 

[panteragstk]

I did mine like this http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/diy-corner-tips-techniques/82837-new-sub-build-few-questions-2.html#post931676. I don't have mitered edges so I was able to use the edge for a clamping surface, which you won't be able to do. You'll have to do two sides at once in order to not mess up your edges.

 

[Swerd]

Thanks Swerd. I have decided that's probably the technique I'll use. Any tips for the best way to clamp it without the pieces sliding on the the 45? Set them in a square jig possibly? Or would that be necessary?

There are a variety of ways to clamp a box with miter joints as you glue it. If you google search it, you can easily go crazy reading all the different ways.

Here are two that seem to show what I'm trying to say

AW Extra 7/26/12 - 10 Techniques for Tighter, Faster, Stronger Miter Joints - Woodworking Techniques - American Woodworker (scroll down to see the 3rd and 4th photos)

http://www.finewoodworking.com/media/GlueUps.pdf (see the example of a mitered case on page 38)

 

[lsiberian]

I use 8 corner clamps to assemble the middle of the cabinet and then add the baffles later. Miter joints requires precise cuts and routing that I've found that to be nearly impossible with my own tools. I use a straight edge and a circular saw with a Forrest blade, but there is still a little bit of wiggle in cuts.

If you have the shop for it the Quarter round + rabbeting technique is very appealing.
Essentially you rabbet 1/4" off the edges of each piece. When you put them together you end up with a 1/4 square spot that you can put a piece of quarter round in. You end up with more sealing points, rounded edges and a nice finish. I don't have the tools for that, but if you do I'd suggest taking a look at it.

 

[pmcenaney]

I like the idea of using the triangular cauls for clamping the edges. It looks like this way I have more control over which sides I glue first, which will be a factor as I need to plan out the construction of this so I can make sure to build the port and bracing properly. Any tips on getting the insides of Andrew's Kappa box in place? (ie. the proper assembly order of this particular design)

Thanks for all the tips so far guys.

 

[Haoleb]

If you are planning on adding speaker grills, perhaps you would want to consider installing some strong magnets inlaid into the back side of the front baffle before you glue it all together. If you are worried about strength from recessing the magnets (hence drilling 3/4 of the way through the plywood) just glue another block to the backside of it to lock in place the magnets and ensure strength.

 

[pmcenaney]

What I'd really like to do is attach my grilles like THIS, not exactly sure where to get those parts though. It looks very clean, and professional though.

 

[Haoleb]

If you havent yet, check out parts express. They should have something like that.

 

[pmcenaney]

So I finally got some time to start my sub cabinets yesterday. So far I've got everything cut out and the port and braces built for both cabinets. I'm going to try to finish the cabinets tonight, and hopefully stain them tomorrow. I decided to change my original design, and opted out of mitering the corners for a couple reasons... One, it was a lot more work than the method I decided to use, and two, my new design will match my existing furniture better. I've completed a cabinet for my existing sub, and the amp for my new ones, I just have to wait another week or so for the glass to arrive. I've ordered some custom cut 5mm tinted, tempered glass for the cabinet door. Here are some photo's of my current setup, and the progress so far on the sub cabinets.



Can't wait to hear these bad-boys rumble!

EDIT: The photo doesn't really do the amp cabinet justice, it actually turned out even nicer than I had expected. Although, I need to wait until my order for the feet comes in, because I was unable to find 1/2" feet at my local hardware store, so I've ordered some with my speaker grill clips. (That's why the cabinet sits 1/4" lower than the TV stand.)

 

[pmcenaney]

I'm starting to come close to finishing these boxes, only a few things left to do until I'll be ready to start staining them..

Basically all that's left is, Wrap the Roxul in some cloth, attach the front, and top, along with a bit of caulking, and edge tape, then bolt in the drivers! I'm starting to get ancy! haha

The Feet, grill cloth, and grill clips are on order, hopefully they'll be arriving soon, and I'll just need to build a frame for the grilles. I've been scouring the internet for a couple of small Infinity badges, with nary any luck finding some that'll ship to Canada.... Any suggestions?

Eye candy:

 

[pmcenaney]

Not sure how to make images from "imgur" small and clickable, instead of huge like this... haha

 

[TheWarrior]

Looks great! Keep it up!

 

[Haoleb]

I can tell you from experience, you're going to regret using those T nut things down the road. They seem like a good idea until the threads get fubar'd and then you go to take a bolt out and the nut just sits on the back side spinning in place. Plywood, unlike MDF is more durable and you can screw and unscrew into it a few times before its messed up. On my Kappa build I made the same mistake of using those T nuts then had to take them all out and install a piece of backing to screw into afterwards... Not trying to sound like a "know-it-all" but trust me unless you plan to screw in the driver and never take it back out.. get rid of those things..

 

[jinjuku]

You are using the wrong speakon's. Those are going to be a bear to get sealed on properly. The ones you have are for use on the back of an amp to make the output a.k.a PCB mount. You want cabinet mount.

 

[pmcenaney]

You want cabinet mount.

Unfortunately, the company I ordered my plugs from didn't have the mount I was looking for, so I'll just have to make the one's I've got work... I'm sure it won't be as stable as the cabinet mount, but with a couple of screws and some silicone, I can't see it going anywhere