HT Room Color?

[MikeSp]

While Audioholics is generally oriented toward Audio, I am looking for help with the color to paint my HT room (with front projection) that will gain WAF and black will NOT get a single point toward WAF.

I find the Munsell color system to be confusing regarding what constitutes a neutral color and when I search out gallery images of dedicated HT rooms, the majority seem to be painted the obligatory black or some shade of maroon. I am uncertain if any shades of maroon are considered neutral.

As a compromise, I have found that ye olde Kodak 18% grey will be accepted, but would like something a litte more colorful than that, but which would not cause coloration or more lightfall on the screen.

Suggestions, ideas, opinions???

Mike

 

[no. 5]

I would think you could paint the room any color, so long as it's fairly dark.

If you wanted more color, you could paint the trim, or a single wall, a more "colorful" color; I have read that black makes the room look like a morgue.

 

[the grunt]

If you use the gray you could try some different colored light bulbs or shades to add some color when not watching movies.

I’m not sure if the option is available but you might consider curtains. I went that route as I live in an apartment with white walls. But I like it as the room's is plenty bright when not watching movies or playing games.

 

[MDS]

I'd say just pick any color you like and not get too hung up on 18% gray or any of that stuff.

My walls are currently painted in your basic builder color that I think they call 'Summertime' - basically a super light beige. My house is pitch black at night and when watching a movie you can't really tell what color the wall is anyway. Making it darker would have no effect whatsoever.

 

[louthewiz]

There are 2 main colors that are my favorites and they are brick red and sky blue, but you must also remember not to use a gloss or semigloss but a flat paint color so the the light from the screen won't bounce off the walls.

 

[~JC~]

Mine is a cranberry, that is, a fairly dark red. Reds easily fade to black as the light level decreases, and are easy to decorate with, carpets, chairs etc. The black leather chairs look particularly good. Good Luck.

 

[~JC~]

Photo

Sorry, here's the photo.

 

[bass addict]

There are 2 main colors that are my favorites and they are brick red and sky blue, but you must also remember not to use a gloss or semigloss but a flat paint color so the the light from the screen won't bounce off the walls.

I would stay away from flat. It is impossible to clean and shows every rub mark. If you want a low gloss finish that still has durability I would look into satin.

I will agree that too many people get wrapped up in the "proper" spec'd theater room. I myself went with a black/dark red scheme and really wish I would have done something besides the black. It performs great, and seeing as it is a dedicated theater room, it didn't have to serve a multi purpose function, but it is still pretty drab. Any dark color should work fine and I doubt you, I, or anyone else could tell the difference between a perfectly shaded room color or not.

 

[dem beats]

WHile this may not help you particularly it was the answer to my problem. I tacked up black fabric. I had pure white contractor crap eggshell/semigloss and man did it reflect. The celing still has an issue but I can't paint at the cuttent location as we are moving out soon.

Anyway,
I really really like the look of fabric. It absorbs light like crazy and I think mildly deadened the room. I doubt the treatment could be a true "room treatment" for sound reasons, but it seams to have made a small difference I also hung a heavey velvet over the one room opening to really stop any light from the stairwell as mine is a basement and it's not an option to close the door at the top of the stairs as the cats have to be able to get to the litter box =/

It's an idea though and really goes well in my room with the posters and canvas art tacked to the walls. Some day i may stretch the canvas and put on wood and frame but I really enjoy the look currently and as I said, we will be moving soon.

 

[Fred333]

That is a great picture of your home theater room. I love the leather seating.

 

[j_garcia]

I used eggshell for both the grays I used and reflection isn't a problem at all.

 

[davidtwotrees]

A little insider paint info...

Good point, J.Garcia. I am a professional painting contractor. The sheen, or luster of paint is not standradized throughout the industry. The terms eggshell and satin get used and can be confusing. One mfgr's eggshell will have the same luster as another's satin. Some satins are really shiny. Traditionally, the luster scale goes, flat, egshell, satin, pearl, semigloss, gloss.
Flat black is traditional for theaters. I am a small theater goer in Chicago, and have donated flat black paint to small theater troupes that must paint the rented theater black before they can get their deposit back from the venue owner. The English term "Black Box Theatre" comes to mind.
But, as has been pointed out, flat paint sucks for wearability. Even though the big paint co.s swear their high end flats are scrubbable, (the seceret is the flat has some shine to it!), flat by nature will pick up dirt, where as shinier paint is less susceptible. Now........while still available, but rarely used is flat oil based paint which produced a much flatter, "dead" flat finish and was very durable.........but sure is stinky painting a whole room with it....
So go with egshell.
As to colors, Benjamin Moore has a great lineup of instock, redi mixed deep colors. Classic Burgundy, Deep Navy, Leather Brown and Hunter Green come to mind to help with WAF. (don't quote me on those names)
It is nice buying the readi mixed colors for a couple of reasons- one, you can return unopened cans, and two, the redi mixed deep colors cover much better than when they mix it in the store.......I think the dri factory pigments are better and more thoroughly mixed.
Hope this helps.....and if anyone ever has any painting, decorating, or actually home improvement questions, just ask me, OK?
(i'm also a remodeller and pretty fair carpenter, too....)

 

[MDS]

Hope this helps.....and if anyone ever has any painting, decorating, or actually home improvement questions, just ask me, OK? (i'm also a remodeller and pretty fair carpenter, too....)

On average what would it cost to paint walls and ceilings either on a per hour basis or per room basis?

Except for the room I use as my office that I painted myself, the rest of my house has one single coat of flat paint and it is terrible. The house is 2200 square feet but is a very open floor plan so if painting the living room you'd also have to paint the adjoining dining room, breakfast area/kitchen, all the adjoining hallways, etc. Based on my experience painting myself, I will not subject myself to that kind of torture ever again.

I was thinking (hoping) it might be something like $20/hour and maybe 5 full days to do everything - so under $1000 total (plus the paint). If that is even close to possible I'd gladly pay to have someone that knows what they are doing do it.

 

[davidtwotrees]

I can't quote you for your Area. My rate is 30 per hour. My flat fee for a 12 x 12 room,with 8 foot ceilings, painted with a white ceiling and one coat of an off white paint on the walls is $300, which includes paint for the ceiling, and two gallons of premium wall paint. A second coat on the walls is 40% of that, ($120). I will move all furniture and put it back when I am done. I will repair minor imperfections in your walls or ceilings. Tons of nail pops and or stress cracks are an extra. If you have multiple rooms, are willing to move the furniture, or have the paint on hand, I am happy to adjust my price accordingly. Other ways to save are to paint walls and ceiling one color, and the entire job one color will really save some time and money. If your walls have cheap contractor flat paint on them, they need two coats to really seal them properly. Almost any big paint company's premium paint will get er done. They are all good. Glidden, Sherwin Williams, Ben Moore, Behr.

I haven't checked for awhile, but the county I work in, DuPage, is in the top twenty for per capita income in the US. So I don't know how my prices travel. I also don't do much competitive bidding. All my work is word of mouth. I am neat to a fault, I am nice to your dog/cat and kids, I communicate well, and do a nice job. I am a one man band, so that is also a plus in that when I do your sales call, you can look me in the eye and know that I am the one you will be giving the keys to your home to. Downside is that if I am busy, I can take a while to get to your work.....

If you hire a pro, does he return your call in a timely fashion? Does he show up on time and look neat and presentable for the sales call? Is he knowledgable about your home and its construction? Does he explain his cost structure and is he willing to work with you? Some people are freaks on insurance. I have my own health insurance plan, and if I am hurt working at your home, won't sue you. I used to carry liability insurance but it was kind of a rip off, imho. I have never had a problem, but if I break something I will fix it to the best of my ability.

Sorry for the blog. Estimates are free, and you might be surprised at how easy it is to get your home painted professionally. One week or less will have painted what it would take you a summer of weekends to do. Plus it will look better, most likely. Many painters are also pretty handy. I also offer hanyman services and can tackle a ton of stuff......like installing crown molding...talk about waf......throw in some chair rail and wallpaper and your wife will love you long time! HTH. David TwoTrees

 

[Adam]

David, are you planning any business trips to the southwest? I'm looking at painting a good deal of my house. Sounds like you would be a great guy to hire!

 

[MDS]

Sorry for the blog. Estimates are free, and you might be surprised at how easy it is to get your home painted professionally. One week or less will have painted what it would take you a summer of weekends to do. Plus it will look better, most likely.

Keeping in mind that I am an amateur...

I painted my office which is 10 x 14 with a 9 foot ceiling and all kinds of little slopes and angles that are considered 'architectural details' (read PIA). The stupid texture on the walls that is very common in Texas makes it very difficult to get every nook and cranny covered even with a thick nap roller.

Two coats of primer and two coats of Bone White paint and it took me weeks! Granted I do one coat or so and then take the day off. My neck and back were killing me. Long story short...I do not enjoy painting!

Even at $30 an hour I could get someone to do it for 1K-1.5K or so and it would be done right with little to no hassle for me. That would be worth it to me.

Thanks for the info, it gives me an idea of things to consider when getting estimates. First...I have to get rid of this damn carpet and replace it with tile - probability of me doing it myself, even with the help of friends - ZERO.

 

[davidtwotrees]

Do the painting before the tile! Pull up the carpet and pad, and then let the painter in.
I'd forgotten about the textured wall dilemna. We are still smooth walled in Chicago, so I was thinking in that vein. Textured walls suck in my opinion...if there is a problem, or a leak, or a hole in the wall, the repair is really hard to blend in...maybe the pros there would mask it all off and spray to get in the nooks and crannies.....happy decorating.

 

[davidtwotrees]

David, are you planning any business trips to the southwest? I'm looking at painting a good deal of my house. Sounds like you would be a great guy to hire!

LOL. No, I'm happy in my little niche. I pay my bills and make my little audio purchases now and again.......