How to pick a subwoofer?

P

Pupp

Audioholic Intern
Just curious, but what do you look at when buying a subwoofer. I noticed that hardly any subwoofers (for home theater setups), have huge wattage.


I know, the obvious choice is get the biggest subwoofer you can afford, but other than that, the only 1000 watt subwoofer I've seen is the Velodyne MiniVee series.

So that got me thinking that maybe wattage isn't really what I need to be looking at. I seen a 400 watt 12" sub that was reasonable priced, and thinking that might be better than the Velodyne, just due to the increased size of the woofer.

Lets presume I'm only looking at quality subs that get good reviews. I know in another thread I started, several companies were listed as making good subs. So this thread isn't so much about a recommendation, but rather curious as to what makes a good sub, other than using quality components and workmanship.
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
There's a few factors at play which dictate this sort of thing

Surface Area
Motor
Internal Box area

A small driver in a relatively small box will have minimal extension (efficiency drops based on the driver's electromechanical nature inside a particular box). To get extension you need to add more power. But if surface area is too small, then you're asking the driver to work harder (excursion) to deliver the same output. The result tends to be higher distortion levels, although there's countless theories on how much distortion is audible among other factors.

Thus, manufacturers have to make different tradeoffs...

Driver displacement / efficiency
Box efficiency
Amplifier power level

So sometimes you need to brute force it with raw electrical power but that isn't a foolproof method. Heat and general mechanical limitations will always come into play and the result tends to be a less clean sound.

There's other factors, but the above outlines it. A good balanced subwoofer has a driver with plenty of surface area and excursion, placed in an appropriately large box, and thus is still sensitive enough that you don't need to brute force it to get output or decent extension. In a sealed alignment you still ultimately need some level of boost though. You'll find that sealed subwoofers generally have more powerful amplifiers than vented subwoofers, though this does not garuntee superior extension or output by any means.

Here's a link that you might want to read:

http://www.salksound.com/wp/?p=56

One way to get high sensitivity and deep extension is to use a horn. Horns... are HUGE.

Another way to get high sensitivity and deep extension is to use an infinite baffle. You need at least four 12" drivers designed for free air loading.

The box is a very relevant part of a subwoofer's design. So is the driver, and the amp is dictated by these things.

In my sub (soon to be subs) I am using a driver with 33mm of fairly linear xmax. Normally a driver with such high excursion capability is going to have very low sensitivity, but my driver has 89db of sensitivity. Why? Because it's an 18" driver!

Take a look at
a)my current sealed box (teal)
b)a larger and vented box (yellow)
c)a smaller sealed box (red)
d)its 12" sibling in the equivalent of my box. (light green)
Each is being fed ONE WATT:



Just imagine how much added power the less sensitive versions (red and light green) need to just be equivalent to what I'm running. Also notice "the hump" in the red box... this means the small box is very likely compromising sound quality with too much internal box pressure.
 
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lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Quality of the driver and port size are the two biggest factors in sound quality IMO. Watts and even driver size are primary guidelines for selecting a subwoofer. For example a JL Audio 8w7 will destroy a Dayton Sub-120.

SVS has scored the highest on the independent tests I've seen, but Epik, HSU, Elemental Designs, Outlaw, and others hold their own. Velodyne is a good brand. Just ask and link and we'll be happy to look at the sub you are considering.
 
Pyrrho

Pyrrho

Audioholic Ninja
Just curious, but what do you look at when buying a subwoofer. I noticed that hardly any subwoofers (for home theater setups), have huge wattage.


I know, the obvious choice is get the biggest subwoofer you can afford, but other than that, the only 1000 watt subwoofer I've seen is the Velodyne MiniVee series.

So that got me thinking that maybe wattage isn't really what I need to be looking at. I seen a 400 watt 12" sub that was reasonable priced, and thinking that might be better than the Velodyne, just due to the increased size of the woofer.

Lets presume I'm only looking at quality subs that get good reviews. I know in another thread I started, several companies were listed as making good subs. So this thread isn't so much about a recommendation, but rather curious as to what makes a good sub, other than using quality components and workmanship.
Wattage is not what you are wanting. What you want is deep and/or loud, undistorted bass. Different speakers can be dramatically different in efficiency, so power output of the amplifier will not even tell you which one plays loudest.

Another mistake people often make is to assume that a larger driver will produce more bass. However, the movement of air is not solely determined by the diameter of the driver. A smaller driver that moves further may move more air than a larger driver that moves less.

With subwoofers, buying from reputable companies based on a careful analysis of the specifications (and reviews in which actual measurements are taken) is a good idea. Or you can just buy the most expensive SVS subwoofer you can afford, or maybe a couple of them.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Quality of the driver and port size are the two biggest factors in sound quality IMO. Watts and even driver size are primary guidelines for selecting a subwoofer. For example a JL Audio 8w7 will destroy a Dayton Sub-120.

SVS has scored the highest on the independent tests I've seen, but Epik, HSU, Elemental Designs, Outlaw, and others hold their own. Velodyne is a good brand. Just ask and link and we'll be happy to look at the sub you are considering.
I meant to say aren't primary guidelines.
 

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