wafflesomd,
I'm 18 bro, I know what a stiff budget feels like. So it seems, you are more into loud and high SPL over sound quality, or maybe a mix of both. Be careful you don't wanna hurt your ears, most of the time if you realize its too loud, chances are it's already too late. I'm more into very good SQ with reasonable output capabilities, over amazingly high SPL and less quality. I was there once, but I got into the hobby at a younger age, now I have a lesser ability to hear high frequencies, and the desire to listen to a system that is as close to lifelike as possible for the least coin.
I don't know how much knowledge you have with audio so I'll explain a few things:
Your oldschool JVC amp will undoubtedly drive a set of speakers a small amount louder than your Pioneer reciever. But the question is; Is that small increase in volume worth the loss in quality? Being older and not of super high quality, the JVC will probably not be quite as clean sounding, really, the extra volume will not be noticed much. Yet the increase in quality from the Pioneer will be easily spotted.
I would suggest that you go for the higher quality but lower power output ability of your reciever. With the budget you have, I'd also have to say to go for a speaker with the highest sesitivity rating you can find, because that will get the most out of your amp.
Also, look into the impedence capabilities of your amp and see what it can handle. Buying an 8ohm speaker for an amp that can handle 4ohms is kind of a waste of power if you are going for loud volumes, but make sure you don't go under the recommended impedence range as there are flaws in the "protect" mode of amps and they don't always shut down fast enough, you will be paying for a repair bill if you overdrive the amp.
Speaker efficiency is very important when you desire to get the most volume possible from your amp. When a manufacturer determines the efficiency of a speaker the standard method is to play a test tone thru a speaker at 1 watt and measure the spl with a microphone at 1 foot away. So a 90dB@1ft.&1w sensitivity rated speaker will play louder with the same amount of power as an 87dB@1ft.&1w rated speaker of equal size and specs.
Remember:
To get 3dB more volume output you have to double the effective power going to a speaker, and for every 3dB increase in volume there is a very SMALL increase in loudness.
example: a 200 watt RMS speaker getting 100 rms watts playing at 100dB would need 200 watts RMS to play at 103dB
To get twice the volume out of a capable speaker you have to increase the effective power to it 10 times.
example: a large 500 watt RMS speaker getting 50 watts RMS playing at 90dB would need 500 watts rms to play at 180dB
So sometimes a small power increase really isn't worth the sacrifice of money or sound quality.
Determining a speaker's ability to handle power:
An amplifier's true ability of output lies in its RMS power figure. The higher the RMS wattage, the more continuous power it can pump to a bigger, higher rated speaker at all times. If you find a speaker you love the sound of but your amp is too small to match the RMS power, no biggie, just upgrade your amp later when you can... But try to make sure the amp you have can do at least 70% of the speaker's RMS power reliably. But, in order to get the most from a speaker, use the "3/4 rule", I didn't make this up, I found it through the polk audio website, it may be elsewhere as well.
polkaudio.com said:
“The 3/4 Rule”: divide the continuous rating by .75 to calculate the maximum amplifier size.
Here's an example as a rough estimate of matching an amp to a speaker power wise using that method:
You have a 100 watt RMS per channel amp, and two sets of speakers to choose from....
Speaker A has an RMS power rating of 70 watts and an effciency rating of 90dB@1ft.&1w
Speaker B has an RMS power rating of 100 watts and an efficiency rating of 87dB@1ft.&1w
Which one do you choose? Speaker A, because @70w RMS you can safely use an amp as close to a 93 watt RMS [70/.75 = 93.3] as possible. An amp that is 100 watts RMS is a reasonably close figure. As a bonus the higher efficiency rating of speaker A will allow it to play louder with that same 100 RMS watts. Speaker B would need twice the power to play at the same level as speaker A since it is 3dB less efficient, and given the "3/4 Rule", it would ideally need 133 RMS watts [100/.75=133.3]to get the most out of it. But, to make up for it's inefficiency compared to speaker A, speaker B would need 200 RMS watts to play just as loud. Therefor speaker A hands down is FTW...
I hope this helps and doesn't confuse you.
-Mike