Folding projector arm/mount?

sleepysurf

sleepysurf

Junior Audioholic
Is there such a thing as a fold-down mount for a front projector? I'm in the (early) stages of designing a front-projection video setup for my family room. However, I have a cathedral ceiling (peak at 11.5 ft), and virtually NO rear wall on which to mount the projector (fam room backs up into kitchen). My wife isn't keen on having a front projector permanently hanging from the ceiling in the middle of the room, so I'm thinking I could mount it on a drop-down swing arm from the small upper wall at the rear of our family room (see pic, "X" on small wall). That would bring it, when extended down, closer to the top of the proposed screen height (~ 7 ft, as sketched in front pic). I could also mount it on a shelf on that small wall, but that would put it ~10 ft high, which I think would require too much keystone adjustment for an optimal picture. I'm open to other suggestions as well. Of note, the rear upper wall is ~18 ft from where the screen will be. BTW, I'm having custom bookcases built around my front console cabinet, and the top cross-piece will have a hidden recess for the drop-down screen (which will hang in front of the HDTV).
 

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Sherardp

Audioholic
I dont think there is mount available that youre speaking of, however I do have a suggestion. You could use a chief mount, with base plate and then add an adjustable down pipe. Whatever route you go youre going to need it to lower under that ceiling fan. Perhaps you should consider shelf mounting or using some sort of rack instead. Check out the chief website and see what options you have.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
Is there such a thing as a fold-down mount for a front projector? I'm in the (early) stages of designing a front-projection video setup for my family room. However, I have a cathedral ceiling (peak at 11.5 ft), and virtually NO rear wall on which to mount the projector (fam room backs up into kitchen). My wife isn't keen on having a front projector permanently hanging from the ceiling in the middle of the room, so I'm thinking I could mount it on a drop-down swing arm from the small upper wall at the rear of our family room (see pic, "X" on small wall). That would bring it, when extended down, closer to the top of the proposed screen height (~ 7 ft, as sketched in front pic). I could also mount it on a shelf on that small wall, but that would put it ~10 ft high, which I think would require too much keystone adjustment for an optimal picture. I'm open to other suggestions as well. Of note, the rear upper wall is ~18 ft from where the screen will be. BTW, I'm having custom bookcases built around my front console cabinet, and the top cross-piece will have a hidden recess for the drop-down screen (which will hang in front of the HDTV).
An expensive alternate is to use a ceiling mounted lift in that upper corner where you initially planned to have it but mounted on the ceiling. Some lifts do lower that much but it may be around $3k? Also, you do need a projector that can output enough light at 18 ft so it will be bright enough on the screen.

Or, you could mount two heft "L" bracket on that wall space by the kitchen to support a lift that may drop a shorter distance. You would need power there, of course, video cable and perhaps trigger wire to lower a screen?
 
sleepysurf

sleepysurf

Junior Audioholic
Thanks! I looked at the Chief drop-down mounts, but not quite what I had in mind. Ideally, I need a mount that extends downward and outward from that small rear wall to shorten the 18 ft throw distance. Guess I'll need to reconsider a fixed ceiling mount behind the ceiling fan, or find a local professional to build a custom solution.
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
At 18' you have to consider the screen size carefully, but understand that if you are sitting at about 10-12 feet, a 106" diagonal screen is perfectly acceptable, and leaves you AT LEAST 41 projectors which will throw to the screen properly from that distance...

http://www.projectorcentral.com/projectors.cfm?mfg_id=any&res_id=any&ar=2&td=18&is=106&bll=any&bul=any&cll=any&cul=any&wll=any&wul=any&prll=any&prul=any&an=0&sp_id=0&dvi=-1&trig=1

The Sanyo PLV-Z3000 has enough lens shift that it can properly throw an image about 2 feet BELOW the lens without issue...
http://www.projectorreviews.com/sanyo/plv-z3000/tour.php#shift

This means that if the center of the lens is about 18' away and about 9-10 feet off the floor, the top of the projected image would be about 7-8 feet off the floor on a 106" diagonal screen.

That would give you one of the least expensive solutions, and afford you the money to get a decent tab-tensioned screen for the room which is about a $2,000 screen or more for a decent product.

If you have to have a lift at the back of the room for the projector, you will not need one which extends the projector in any way as long as you are getting a projector which allows for the throw distance and screen size you are looking for.

Please note that I'm not talking about keystone correction, but optical lens shift which should produce zero image problems.

Do NOT go to small for a screen. You already have a large plasma, so simply adding a foot or two of screen size will not be very impactful compared to nearly doubling the image diagonal.
 
sleepysurf

sleepysurf

Junior Audioholic
Thanks! I was indeed figuring about a 106" screen. I'm still hoping to figure a way to mount it lower than the 10 ft rear wall, but if not, it's encouraging to see I have quite a few projector choices that could work.
 
sleepysurf

sleepysurf

Junior Audioholic
Drats, might not be worth the effort after all. I'll only have 70" max width for the screen, possibly only 68" (due to the bookshelves), which only gives me ~78" diag screen with 16:9 aspect ratio. Wish I'd looked at those screen calculators first!
 
phlakvest

phlakvest

Audioholic
Here's a hairbrained idea.

Build a soffit above the kitchen counters. You can have cupboards in them, or hang pots from them, or whateve else it takes to persuade the wife.

You can put the projector in one end of the soffit. Have a door that covers it when not in use if she doesnt want to see it.

It may not bring it low enough to duck the ceiling fan. I can't tell from the pictures. But it may be worth a thought.
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
Drats, might not be worth the effort after all. I'll only have 70" max width for the screen, possibly only 68" (due to the bookshelves), which only gives me ~78" diag screen with 16:9 aspect ratio. Wish I'd looked at those screen calculators first!
I did an installation last year where a client had built in shelving. Instead of the projector being placed within the shelving, a motorized screen was put in a soffit and the screen dropped in front of the bookshelves. When not in use, the screen retracted up within the soffit area which was built to match the wood and bookshelf design.

The restrictions on screen size were eliminated and the front mounting of the screen, in front of the shelves, eliminated any conflict between the shelves and the projection integration.

Basically it allows you to have your cake and eat it to.

Also, you will need a fair bit more than 77" wide for a tab-tensioned screen, so you will want that extra space which can be provided by having the screen drop in front of the shelving.
 
sleepysurf

sleepysurf

Junior Audioholic
I've been furiously researching other options, and will do exactly what you proposed! By mounting the screen in front of (instead of between) the bookcases, I can accommodate a 92" diagonal 16:9 screen, likely the Stewart Luxus Communicator, which is the only manual pull-down screen available with tab-tensioners. I can't go any larger due to my speaker placement, which is already optimal. I'll rework the top-shelf design to incorporate a full-width soffit.
 
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