EMP Tek 1010i question

ousooner2

ousooner2

Full Audioholic
Can't say if it sounds good as I haven't even heard the e1010i yet lol. I hate talking about it haha. I want both of mine now!! I didn't hear that 4 e1010i setup either. Obviously it's not hitting sub 25hz content with ease, but I bet it sounded damn good on 95% of movies and all music. It seems every review I've seen about the e1010i where the listener has heard other quality subs in the same room (same time a few times also; hsu, svs, dayton, etc etc) has had nothing but good things to say about it's sound quality.

Adding more subs won't extend you any deeper really. Maybe a hair, but not much. If you have any nulls or anything like that that could be hurting your lower end also. The only way to get some serious sub-30/sub-25hz content is to go to a different sub. Cone area, power, large enclosure/infinite baffle (unless there is some serious eq applied like the JL subs). Of course...that comes at a much higher costs. Many recommend the pb-1000 at $500 as that will dig down into the lower 20's easily, but likely not with a lot of volume. The next steps up are LFM-1ex/PSA xv15/etc at about $650+. This is just one of those points where you have to ask yourself is it work the extra money to have that content or not. Obviously everyone would love to, but many different factors play into everyone's final decisions.
 
Ponzio

Ponzio

Audioholic Samurai
That looks good. But can those feet be unscrewed?
Yes the feet can be removed but I don't know if their counter-sunk or whether the screws go all the way thru. A quick call to EMP would answer that question. Nothing personal but I'm not about to find out. ;)

I do like the look though, without the covers. :) I can imagine the comments from friends and family now. :D
 
ousooner2

ousooner2

Full Audioholic
That looks good. But can those feet be unscrewed?

Eight 10" woofers should be quite nice for bass.

I like how the subs are actually BIGGER than the speaker towers. :D

I have ten 10" woofers (SX-1010 x 5). :D
Yes the feet can be removed but I don't know if their counter-sunk or whether the screws go all the way thru. A quick call to EMP would answer that question. Nothing personal but I'm not about to find out. ;)

I do like the look though, without the covers. :) I can imagine the comments from friends and family now. :D

emp-vents.jpg Full Screen Image | Audioholics

Looks like they'll come off and should be somewhat flush. If you can't find anything about it I'll take pics when mine get here to clarify. If there's a small hole or anything then I'm sure a black bumper plug type thing could fill it and you wouldn't even know it was there. Especially since it'll be at almost 50+ inches high





What if....




hahaha


Obviously you'd need to make the top a little larger or just make it look somewhat reasonable, but that'd be pretty cool haha. Run the subs up to 80hz and have the midwoofer come in like it does (120hz/6db and 500hz/12db) then into the sealed midrange/tweeter cabinet like normal. I could even put another midwoofer on there! Or run it like the e56ci center where the midwoofer is on top (not sure what problems that would create, but who cares!...this is fantasy island right now)

*not liable for chopping your speakers up and not being happy with it
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
Yup that's their Black Ash finish. It's black, wood grain veneer with a clear coat on it. Looks really nice for the price. REALLY nice! They've got this color (Black Ash) and Red Burl, which is also very nice looking

View attachment 12821

^ This guy had nothing but good things to say also when compared to the HSU vt3-mk4 and Dayton DIY sub

Red Burl
View attachment 12822


I think adding another on top like I mentioned would be awesome. Like the picture below (not mine). Maybe she wouldn't even notice since it's in the corner! Muahaha

+
That looks cool but the sub is meant to have it's port firing at the floor. You may be sacrificing a bit of extension this way.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
That looks cool but the sub is meant to have it's port firing at the floor. You may be sacrificing a bit of extension this way.
Well, could you just flip the top one over and let it fire into the lower one?
 
ousooner2

ousooner2

Full Audioholic
Does the direction of the port really matter though? I wouldn't think it would (just port length, size, air speed, etc..but not direction of what it's firing into). Maybe I'm wrong. It's possible.
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
Does the direction of the port really matter though? I wouldn't think it would (just port length, size, air speed, etc..but not direction of what it's firing into). Maybe I'm wrong. It's possible.
<!--[if gte mso 9]><![endif]-->
Yes, the response will be different in the lowest frequencies without the top sub port close coupling with the floor. Having them stacked will result in slightly less 20-30Hz energy and more mid bass energy in the room compared to putting the subs side by side. You might want to try both ways but side by side takes up a lot of floor space.

<!--[if gte mso 9]><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <![endif]-->
 
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C

cisco kid

Audioholic Intern
Got to say they are very nice in appearance. Ponzio , some nice feedback. I had a pair, the word is had a pair and sold one off. Those in at the sale price got a great deal. Time will tell if I regret not keeping the second but for now coming from what I had it will be better. Worst case scenario I buy another on sale next yr if still made or some here sells one and if a match I may be in!

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
C

cisco kid

Audioholic Intern
@ Ponzio, have you experimented w your 1010i more since getting and any more feedback?

By the 25th I will have mine all set up, cant wait, house is pretty much all boxes except for the large things till we move:)

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
Ponzio

Ponzio

Audioholic Samurai
Experimentation is limited in the room. But I can report that a Y cable is a must. :) I know; I’m a moron. :eek: I bought 2 from Blue Jeans Cable (nice & rugged). Once the 2nd bass kicked in it was like … Now that’s what I’m looking for!!! … I’m done. It’s been 2 ½ years since I began trying to get a certain sound in this room and I think I’m done. Fini! ... … famous last words. I’ve demoed it for friends and the stove repair guy, the other day, and they all highly approve.
 
A

ActionJ

Audiophyte
Jumped in on the ES1010i

Called them up and got a black one $249 shipping today........
 
A

Actran

Audioholic
I actually sent my first 1010i back for a replacement because I thought something was wrong with it. The box's face wasn't completely sealed so heavy loads made some funny wheezing noises. The replacement had the same issue and rattled after a month. That being said, it took me about and hour and $5 to pull the drivers, reglue the center brace, add some padding around the wire bundles (that were rattling against the port tubes, and caulk the living heck out of every joint in the box. Now it's one heck of a sub.

It's a great value, just realize that $299 is very inexpensive so some handywork may be needed.
 
ousooner2

ousooner2

Full Audioholic
2 of them are constantly surprising me. They have more authority under 30hz than my rw-12d's....And sound much better.
 
ousooner2

ousooner2

Full Audioholic
2 will make a pretty big difference. For the money, they're great. Obviously you'll get more sub 30hz content when you spend $500+ (or DIY something), but the accuracy/tonality and SPL levels for the price are great. I need to pull out the SPL meter and see what I'm getting in room from 20-30hz
 
ousooner2

ousooner2

Full Audioholic
This thread has died down a little lately so I figured I'd bump it back up. Been playing with the e1010i's a little today and figured I'd see what kind of MAX SPL they can reach IN MY ROOM. I didn't push them past the point that I could hear any port chuffing or anything unnatural.

These readings were taken with a Radioshack digial SPL meter and have been corrected using the tables found online for this meter.


crap...these aren't the corrected ones. One sec! :p
20hz - 82dB (darn lol....gotta pay A LOT to get this and have it be useable)
25hz - 101dB
30hz - 101dB
35hz - 104dB
40hz - 102dB
45hz - 98dB
50hz - 102dB
55hz - 101dB
60hz - 105dB
65hz - 107dB
70hz - 103dB
75hz - 100dB
80hz - 100dB

Keep in mind, this is IN ROOM and at a distance of 11' away at head level (about 2' ish above top sub)


Corrected Values for 1/3 octave frequencies. I'm not sure what the corrections are for frequencies that are NOT 1/3 octave freq. so I can't correct all of numbers above

......hz..........correction..........reading........corrected reading
Untitled.jpg





I see most are 1m, 2m or 2m rms groundplane (whatever those mean); I can't really compare as these aren't the same measurement criteria, but if anyone has any ideas to help me get closer or how to measure to be the 'same measurement techniques' as those on say DataBass or here...that'd be great
 
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