Dayton HO design check

[Solidcrowd]

So I'm looking to port an enclosure I purchased off CL for my home audio setup. I have TWO Dayton Audio RSS315ho-44 DVC 12" HO's which will be powered by my 240wrms plate amp @ 4ohm.

The enclosure is a slant(wedge 2) dual sealed enclosure with seperate chambers.

Dimensions are:
34.625"W X 11.9375" H1 (Bottom Height) X 9.25" H2 (Top Height) X 12.625" D
Thickness = 5/8" MDF.

I figured my subs will get 0.959 cuft. each. If I go ported, I was thinking a 2" flared port in Each chamber @ 9.35" long will give me 30hz, but that would leave me with only ~1-2" from the wall depending on what sides I cut into. I am worried about port noise, especially if I throw more wattage at them.

If someone can check in bassBox or winsid, I'd like to see what has a better frequency response and higher output; sealed or ported (and what Hz is best). I want to get low for movies, but still sound good for music (rock and rap). Or tell me what size port and length I should get.

Here is my design (the slant is not that prominent):

The enclosure I will be stripping down, sand, and paint or wrap to appear like the setup below.

Here are my driver parameters:

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

I can't get to my winisd right now but my hunch is a 2" port is gonna be noisy, and also I don't know if you'll even be able to tune that small of enclosure to 30hz. Another thing is the fs of the driver is 21hz. I would throw the box away, and start over and build 2 separate enclosures that are properly sized and tuned closer to 20hz each. Youll get better performance from 2 separate enclosures vs one.

 

[Solidcrowd]

Well they don't necessarily share the enclosure, since they are separated chambers. According to partsexpress the Daytons strangely require small enclosures. I'm a noob with Winsid and don't have Bass box to figure it out. Here's some info straight from their website: (don't know what F3 means to my design plans)

Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)

• Sealed Volume 0.49 ft.³
• Sealed F3 47 Hz
• Vented Volume 1.36 ft.³
• Vented F3 27 Hz

 

[annunaki]

You need to check the vent velocity on your design. You are going to have a lot of vent noise. I would recommend leaving them sealed or building new properly vented enclosures.

 

[TheWarrior]

Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)

• Sealed Volume 0.49 ft.³
• Sealed F3 47 Hz
• Vented Volume 1.36 ft.³
• Vented F3 27 Hz

If you're only able to provide .9 cuft per driver, then you do not have sufficient volume for a ported sub in that enclosure. F3 is the frequency response, 3dB down.

 

[Solidcrowd]

I asked because I've read on forums that PE suggestion numbers are off alot of the time. I was hoping someone could run the numbers and see the output/response difference betwen leaving it sealed or going ported with my design.

 

[MrBoat]

Well they don't necessarily share the enclosure, since they are separated chambers. According to partsexpress the Daytons strangely require small enclosures. I'm a noob with Winsid and don't have Bass box to figure it out. Here's some info straight from their website: (don't know what F3 means to my design plans)

Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)

• Sealed Volume 0.49 ft.³
• Sealed F3 47 Hz
• Vented Volume 1.36 ft.³
• Vented F3 27 Hz

Those are the same specs listed at Dayton Audio as well.

 

[panteragstk]

I've played around with it and with your proposed box with .9 cu ft for each driver and a 2" vent for each you will only be able to feed it 100w before the cone goes into over-excursion.

With a vented box this driver doesn't appear to have enough xmax for any sort of output. I only applied 100w and couldn't get it to output anything that great.

Sealed it can handle a lot of power, but the response curve is pretty ugly. F3 is 57hz or so.

Maybe someone can design a better box that will help you.

 

[toffkanda]

On WinISD this sub does appear to want a small box between 2 and 2.5 cuft but the challenge is port velocity. Large enough port surface area= port gets too long. It may best be suited to a passive radiator alignment if adequate 20hz spl is desired.
With two subs one might attain 112db at 20hz if the room is right.

 

[Solidcrowd]

Based on all the opinions I am going to leave it sealed. How much polyfill should I add in each chamber and what can I do EQ or otherwise to extend more bottom end? I have a Yamaha HTR-5960 along with my 240wrms @4ohm plate amp.

 

[lovinthehd]

Based on all the opinions I am going to leave it sealed. How much polyfill should I add in each chamber and what can I do EQ or otherwise to extend more bottom end? I have a Yamaha HTR-5960 along with my 240wrms @4ohm plate amp.

What plate amp? Some have a built in boost....

ps usual formula for polyfill is 1 lb per cuft.

 

[Solidcrowd]

What plate amp? Some have a built in boost....

ps usual formula for polyfill is 1 lb per cuft.

Here is my amp...
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/300-794-parts-express-specifications-44176.pdf

And thanks for the polyfill info.

 

[lovinthehd]

Here is my amp...
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/300-794-parts-express-specifications-44176.pdf

And thanks for the polyfill info.

Indeed has bass boost with detailed instructions on implementation....

 

[Solidcrowd]

Indeed has bass boost with detailed instructions on implementation....

I don't know if that is something I am prepared to do lol, but I think I will give it a shot. I can solder, but circuitry and resistors are intimidating. I just don't want to break anything since I'm on a tight-to nonexistent budget.

Considering I will be running the TWO Dayton HOs off 250wrms total, in .959 cuft Each, and possibly adding 1/2lb of Acousta-Stuf in each chamber.
Which Freq. and DB value should I select? This doesn't look like something I want to keep adjusting.

I currently only have a solder gun that looks like this..

 

[lovinthehd]

I don't know if that is something I am prepared to do lol, but I think I will give it a shot. I can solder, but circuitry and resistors are intimidating. I just don't want to break anything since I'm on a tight-to nonexistent budget.

Considering I will be running the TWO Dayton HOs off 250wrms total, in .959 cuft Each, and possibly adding 1/2lb of Acousta-Stuf in each chamber.
Which Freq. and DB value should I select? This doesn't look like something I want to keep adjusting.

I currently only have a solder gun that looks like this..

Don't blame ya. The Yamahas aren't famous for lower bass eq via YPAO but you could perhaps consider a miniDSP unit (one of their 2x4 models).

 

[toffkanda]

250WRMS for both drivers total may not be able to do it with this sub rated at 700w rms and from a quick check on WinISD gets to about 109db for 500w per driver in a ported alignment much less in a sealed alignment where you would require much more power for meaningful equalization.
You may need an outboard pro amplifier.