K

Kilwox

Audioholic Intern
<font color='#000000'>I'm just wondering if anyone ahs tried to build their own component shelving unit? &nbsp;I've been thinking about it lately but don't know what would be the best material to use for leg pieces? &nbsp;If anyone knows of a DIY design out there, please let me know.</font>
 
Mudcat

Mudcat

Senior Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>How do you want it to look?

I went to Middle Atlantic and got custom rackmount shelves for most of my equipment and have it all mounted in a rack (mostly because I acquired a bunch of equipment that was designed for rack mounting).

If you just want shelves, three or four legs would suffice. &nbsp;for a wood, I would recommend maple or oak, do not use pine, poplar, or anyother low density wood. &nbsp;Use dowels where ever possible (yeah it makes it perminent, but you won't pull them out like you can do a screw).

If you want/need to use screws, use a cap screw and do not countersink - a bad counter sink can ruin a pretty face. &nbsp;And go with black anadoized screws for looks.

If you are good with a router, and/or have a table saw you can make something that would cost tons more if bought in a store. &nbsp;My rack is all oak.</font>
 
Rip Van Woofer

Rip Van Woofer

Audioholic General
<font color='#000000'>If you don't mind a somewhat "industrial" look, you can build a simple rack using heavy threaded rod for the legs and hold the shelves in place with nuts & washers. Instructions here. Having only three legs makes leveling easier. No need to use the silly isolation blocks they suggest. I use furniture sliders to keep them from ruining the carpet & to allow some movement.

They suggest 18mm (3/4") rod which is darn heavy and hard to find. I used 5/8" and it's fine.

I also built their PVC pipe speaker stands, somewhat adapted as you can see on my page. Again, I don't accept their tweaky theories about isolation etc., but the stands are easy to make.

You can see mine on my speaker page.</font>
 
A. Vivaldi

A. Vivaldi

Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>[/QUOTE]I don't accept their tweaky theories about isolation etc.,
Do you have any scientific backing that would prove isolation cones/pods or weighted speaker stands don't effect speaker resonances? I'm curious.</font>
 
Rip Van Woofer

Rip Van Woofer

Audioholic General
<font color='#000000'>I don't accept their tweaky theories about isolation etc., <table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> Do you have any scientific backing that would prove isolation cones/pods or weighted speaker stands don't effect speaker resonances? I'm curious.</td></tr></table>
The burden of proof is on those who claim an effect. You can't prove a negative!

However, in normal use, solid-state electronics are not subject to "microphony", the transmission of airborne or mechanical vibrations thru the signal path --- unless you open up the case and thump firmly on the chassis or components, say. Thus, adding isolation would seem to be unneccesary. Tubes can be another matter. Even then, simple isolation with rubber feet and keeping them a decent distance from the speakers should be all that's needed.

I think spikes could help stabilize a top-heavy tall speaker on carpet, but as for acoustical effect I'm doubtful. Maybe, just maybe, coupling a speaker to the floor helps minimize room nodes and bass resonances thru absorbtion much as the normal flex in stud and drywall construction is known to do.

(The carpet spikes on my homebuilt speaker stands are archery field points and matching threaded arrow inserts from Gander Mountain. About $8 total for a dozen of each!)</font>
 
K

Kilwox

Audioholic Intern
<font color='#000000'>Thanks for the comments and suggestions everybody. &nbsp;There are some very helpful comments. &nbsp;My plan now is to cut the shelves out of 3/4" MDF and run a piece of threaded rod up each corner of each shelf, and thread it into the top shelf securely. &nbsp;I'm going to use a 1" steel pipe with a thin wall as spacers around the threaded rod, between each shelf. &nbsp;That'll let me customize the spacing between each shelf.

I'll keep posting as the project comes along.</font>
 
T

Tizeye

Enthusiast
When I built my unit, I went around to stores and viewed their designs. Then bought the wood at HD. 2 sheets of 3/4 oak veneer ply and 1 sheet 1/4 oak veneer ply for backing. Then used solid oak for trim and edging on ply. To minimize router work, used some 1/4 formed oak edging and moulding for base edge. While I basically used a woodworking plan for the unit, it is not what I wanted to build (Won't accept a TV larger than 32") was what wife wanted. My favorite is how I re-designed the backing where didn't have to cut holes in the back for wiring, and remove 6 screws and the entire back will come off for easy access to back of components. :) Basically, I made a false trap with 1X2 oak inset 1" from back, then made back panel 1 1/2" too short. Excellent back ventilation, and attached velcro binders (primary use to bind coumputer wires together) at each shelf level to control the wiring mess! What I forgot - coasters. :( That thing is heavy when fully loaded. Just got back from HD with 'magic glides' that I am going to try.

As I have looked around in stores, there are some interesting designs. Potentially the easiest I have seen are glass shelves with 4 boards. Get glass as heavy guage, cut at glass shop - not the HD thin stuff. If you describe project, the HD personnel in the doors/glass section can refer you. The hard part of building a more open design is wiring management - hiding wires to make look neat.

Definately concur with another poster - keep away from soft woods such as pine.

Plan to use it for a few years then build something else as the current TV becomes obsolete, and prices decline on flat panels. In the meantime doing MAJOR upgrade to AV equiptment, currently focusing on speakers. Thinking how could design speaker stands is the reason I went to HD today, but cheap stands is a subject of another post.
 
K

Kilwox

Audioholic Intern
completed stand

I have finally completed my home made component stand. As soon as I get moved and all my gear set up, I'll post some pictures for everybody to see. It certantly came in under budget compared to a store bought unit, but my veneer work is not as perfect. Not bad for a first try though. I should have some pictures up in a couple fo weeks!
 
U

Unregistered

Guest
As far as getting glass, I think kitchen cutting glass might work. Like the stuff you put vegetables and meat on to cut. Its usually a little thick, since your pushing on it. And they come in many different sizes, so finding a large

Heres a cool idea for a "different" material. 14x17 "black granite" plastic top.



Cutting boards also come in nice woods too, just make sure its large enough to accomodate your gear, usually 17x12 is big enough except for maybe large amps, but put those on the bottom shelf anyways.

 
J

jelumberproduct

Audiophyte
Maple Platforms

Hello, I am new to the audio thing. I make butcher block cuting boards and countertops. I also have a hi-fi system. I was wondering what the science is behind inserting one undernieth my system is and if it realy works. If anyone has any information that could help me let me know. My e-mail is jelumberproducts@yahoo.com.
 

Latest posts

newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top