Beat the recession! Highly cost effective DIY speaker build using the Audax AP170Z0

[JLMEMT]

I will shorten it up a bit and maybe skip the ballast. I used the wrong volume the first time so they are a little thicker than I first had them. They are about 42" tall now.

 

[mc_chofo]

Hello to everybody, i'm back, i was out of my house this weekend and i couldn't be near of any computer till now that i come back. surprisingly yesterday arrived at me the package from parts-express and seams that tomorrow i will get the fedex parts. and i will have everything toghter. as the cabinet concerns, i'm half of building them, tomorrow i'll take som picks to share with you, and ask you for opinnion.

i do envy of you that has snow, we dont have it here in Mexico.

 

[mc_chofo]

This is what i have so far, but, i already build one cabinet's front plate. tomorrow night i think i will have both cases done.





this are cellphone pics

 

[mc_chofo]

hi i need your help, i don't know how to remove the cover from the xovers plate, the gray cover that has over the contact of the plate, before i start to make holes and put everything together, i don't know how to remove it. Dr. need you help.

thanks

 

[mc_chofo]

what i'm not understanding, is why do i have two pcb and from what i see in your pics you split one pcb on two. i'm pretty confused.

 

[TLS Guy]

what i'm not understanding, is why do i have two pcb and from what i see in your pics you split one pcb on two. i'm pretty confused.

I don't understand the problem.

You should have two boards, one for each speaker. One side of the board has the conductive layer you solder to, the other side you place the components. I have the outside as the positive plane and the middle as ground plane.

It is a bit if a brain teaser working out an elegant component layout.

If you get stuck, you will have to send the components to me and I will build them for you.

Good work so far by the way.

This is the side you solder to, the reverse side you place the components.

 

[mc_chofo]

Do i have to paste the xover with extra strong glue to the back of the cabinet or how do i put it inside? i'm a little confused.

i had the doubt about the xover construction, since i saw the pic you posted on page 3, had same pcb as i got but in two halfs, but other than that i think i'm fine, tomorrow i will show you how my over went, and i hope everything will go great, anyway. thanks for everything.

almost forgot this one, the 6" lenght of the vent pipe. do i have to messure 6" only on the pipe?

 

[TLS Guy]

Do i have to paste the xover with extra strong glue to the back of the cabinet or how do i put it inside? i'm a little confused.

i had the doubt about the xover construction, since i saw the pic you posted on page 3, had same pcb as i got but in two halfs, but other than that i think i'm fine, tomorrow i will show you how my over went, and i hope everything will go great, anyway. thanks for everything.

Do not glue it, then you can not service it.

You need some brass or stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts.

Drill holes for the bolts at the spacing on the board. Put the bolts through and then a washer and nut on each and tighten. Then place another nut on each bolt, and then washers. Then place the board on the bolts. Then place another set of washers and then nuts and tighten.

The vent length is from the lip of the front flare to the lip of the rear flare.

 

[mc_chofo]

so do i have to drill trough the back of the cabinet? or is there any other option to put it? Dr. wouldn't you have a picture of a xover inside of a cabinet so i can see how do i have to do it?

 

[TLS Guy]

so do i have to drill trough the back of the cabinet? or is there any other option to put it? Dr. wouldn't you have a picture of a xover inside of a cabinet so i can see how do i have to do it?

I would mount it on the back behind the woofers, or on the bottom.

I think this is the type of picture you are asking for.

 

[mc_chofo]

great picture and also great cabinet, thanks that was the kind of picture i was waiting for, but, that's a different kind of cabinet, in the kind of cab i'm working on, what if i mount the xover on a piece of wood and then paste the wood inside the cab, then i do same as you told me to do, but woulnd'ti be messing up with the internal volume of the cabinet afecting the internal volume?

 

[mc_chofo]

Dr. i think i made a huge mistake, i make the cabinet as close as vb as i could, and i didn't take no consideration about that when putting inside rockwool or any other damping material i will be reducing the internal volume. did i f#$"$% up the proyect? or is there anything i can do to fix it, or simply it is well done?

 

[TLS Guy]

Dr. i think i made a huge mistake, i make the cabinet as close as vb as i could, and i didn't take no consideration about that when putting inside rockwool or any other damping material i will be reducing the internal volume. did i f#$"$% up the proyect? or is there anything i can do to fix it, or simply it is well done?

What did you allow for? This is the post in this thread that explains Vt and Vb.

Did you add anything to Vb to get Vt and if so what, and what did you leave out? (Driver, braces, crossover etc.)

I think I'm going to have to recalculate the tuning of this box from what you are telling me. We will have to see how much that will raise F3.

I'm going to bed now, and tomorrow I will be driving back to Benedict first thing. It will likely be sometime tomorrow afternoon before you hear from me again.

 

[mc_chofo]

well i leave everything out, i didn't incluide braces, nor drivers nor xovers, i made the cabinet like if there's nothing to be inside.

 

[mc_chofo]

i just re messure everything, and what i got without incluiding braces, nor speakers, nor xovers, was internally 2.046cubic feet. what do i do? what i did was to calculate the internal volume with vb value and not with vt.

do i have to rebuild everything? or is there any chance that i can save this thing without putting it into the trash can?

 

[TLS Guy]

i just re messure everything, and what i got without incluiding braces, nor speakers, nor xovers, was internally 2.046cubic feet. what do i do? what i did was to calculate the internal volume with vb value and not with vt.

do i have to rebuild everything? or is there any chance that i can save this thing without putting it into the trash can?

Relax! This is your new alignment.

Name: AP170Z0
Type: Standard one-way driver
Company: Audax Industries
No. of Drivers = 2
Mounting = Standard
Wiring = Parallel
Fs = 48.5 Hz
Qms = 1.61
Vas = 24.65 liters
Cms = 0.996 mm/N
Mms = 10.82 g
Rms = 2.05 kg/s
Xmax = 3 mm
Xmech = 4.5 mm
P-Dia = 129.6 mm
Sd = 132.7 sq.cm
P-Vd = 0.0396 liters
Qes = 0.5
Re = 5.3 ohms
Le = 0.74 mH
Z = 6 ohms
BL = 5.76 Tm
Pe = 60 watts
Qts = 0.38
no = 0.542 %
1-W SPL = 89.3 dB
2.83-V SPL = 91.28 dB
-----------------------------------------
Box Properties
Name:
Type: Vented Box
Shape: Prism, square (optimum)
Vb = 1.7 cu.ft
Fb = 42.21 Hz
QL = 6.782
F3 = 53.49 Hz
Fill = minimal
No. of Vents = 1
Vent shape = round
Vent ends = two flared
Dv = 4 in
Lv = 8.63 in

Your vent length is now 8.63". F3 has come up 7 Hz, to 53 Hz, which is a small trade off, and will save you putting the cabinets in the trash.

 

[mc_chofo]

So i leave the cabinet just as its right now?

 

[TLS Guy]

So i leave the cabinet just as its right now?

Yes, just make sure you take note of the new vent length.

 

[mc_chofo]

Doc. could you please explain me how this will change the sound? (in commun words) so i can understand you and what way this will change the sound of the speaker.

thanks

 

[TLS Guy]

Doc. could you please explain me how this will change the sound? (in commun words) so i can understand you and what way this will change the sound of the speaker.

thanks

The speakers will not play quite as deep. They will roll off 24 db per octave at 53 Hz instead of 24 db per octave at 46 Hz. So you have lost 1/3 octave of bass extension.

It is your decision to continue with those cabinets, or to build new ones to reclaim that 1/3 octave. Personally I would not, but that has to be your decision. If you want that possible 1/3 octave extension, then you have to rebuild the cabinets.

You can get to an F3 of 48 Hz with a port 6" in length, however roll off starts to occur at 175 Hz, so I think that solution would actually sound as if there was less bass.