lzk4 said:
Hello,
I have learnt a lot the last few days reading the posts on this forum, thanks to all who participate. I'm getting my basement finished and to my surprise, my wife really wants to get a HT (projector/screen etc). Of course, the regular constraints: speakers have to be small, on the wall, no floor-standing, wires have to be behind dry-wall etc etc. I have a small closet underneath the stairs that I plan to use as an equipment closet (with a recessed wall cabinet/rack of some sort). I'm getting it framed next week and dry-walled the week after, and I have some decisions to make about pre-wiring. (see attached picture)
1. 7.1 system wiring, electrician will run "standard" 16/2 speaker wire from closet to each point. Is regular speaker wire sufficient or do I need branded (e.*. monster) wire?
2. Some use 16/4 wire: why use 4 stranded wire? Is 16/2 sufficient?
3. Subwoofer: I would like to prewire for 3 corners as I dont know where I'm putting the sub yet. No regular 16/2 speaker wire, right? Do I need special subwoofer wire or regular RG6? What about brand-name speaker wire (monster etc)?
4. For overhead projector, I plan on running component video wires from closet to projector point, about 15'. Should I run a HDMI cable too?
5. The ceiling is 8' high, and all speakers will be wall-mounted about 6' from floor. The rear speakers on the back wall will be 4' away from corner, 8' apart. The other 2 rear speakers on the side-walls will be about 4 or 5' from corner. Are these distances sufficient?
6. The center channel needs to be on wall behind screen to keep it away from the kids, with a perforated screen. Will the picture quality be significantly degraded by using a perforated screen?
7. I want to pre-wire for the possibility of putting a plasma on the far wall instead of a screen, but component video/hdmi is too expensive for just a possibility. Can I run 3 regular RG6 wires for now and use them as component video?
8. Also running CAT5 wires put in for an Infrared repeater/extender system like Xantech or Niles Audio. I plan on putting a ceiling mounted infrared sensor just in front of the screen. Not going with RF system.
9. Finally for the cabinet itself, I plan on having the contractor build me 20"W X 20"D X 48"H closet with maybe 4-5 shelves. I can't find any inexpensive cabinets of that size. Should I look at audio racks with a plexiglass door instead... any info on where I can get one that not too expensive ($100-$200).
BTW, I have short-listed the equipment I plan on putting in. This is just a short-list, havent had time to go listen to any of them yet.
Receiver: Denon 3805 or Yamaha 2400
Speakers: Sat/Sub system like Paradigm Cinema70, Energy Encore, DefTech Procinema 100
Projector: LCD Sanyo PLV-Z2 or Panasonic L500U
Screen: 106 or 110" tensioned, perforated Da-lite (gray)
Sorry for the long post, I've tried to be as thorough as possible. Thanks in advance for any advice/opinions.
Vasu
Boy, you are cutting it very close. I like such planning in the can before work starts. Old addage: haste makes waste
Let's see if I can help with some of your issues:
#1. regular speaker wire is fine but if I can talk you into 14ga or even 12 ga to the electrical boxes supporting speakers, you would be better off. Your runs by wire lengths will be long. No need for brand name wire anywhere, especially the expensive Monster brand.
#2. I presume some use 4 conductor for assurance that nothing will happen to the other two and you would have to rewire that box afterwards, a remodeling job that is not fun. Up to you.
#3. Subwoofer. Today most are powered. So, you need a 120V outlet nearby each corner as a starter. Use the RG6 type cable, not speaker wire. Subwoofer wire is equivalent to RG6 type without the extra $$.
#4. Video. You need to know what the projector will take. I would wire several options just in case. Some of that wire is cheap and remodeling is expensive and a headache. If that projector will take the DVI use that too but your DVD player will need that capability as well, of course.
You need a 120V outlet in the ceiling for the projector. Consider a 12V trigger wire from the projector to the screen so it will come down when the projector is turned on.
You also need 120V where the screen if it is retractable, is and if you use the 12 v trigger, you need an outlet for that by the screen. This way, you only need one sensor by the projector to turn it on and lower the screen. Make sure the sensor is in line of the sitting position for the remote. Zantech is good
#5. Your room layout is far from ideal. I have questions about placing the front speakers so high. If you can lower it. You should also know how low the screen will come and may want to place it on the centerline of the white portion. Also, as a note, you don't want the bottom of the white portion too high or you will get a sore neck looking up.
The side wall speakers should be in line with your shoulder/ear in the sitting area, not too low, not too high. The rear wall speakers should be closer than 8 ft., maybe 4-6 ft. They are almost a center rear channel speakers since the rear center is only one channel.
#6. No, the picture will not suffer but your speakers will. You will need to adjust it with the screens in place. If you just listen to music without the screen, the center will be louder.
#7. Yes, 3 RG6 type is fine for component video. I don't think you will like it in that large room though.
#8. Touched on this in #4 but a Cat 5 may be too much cable unless you can get 1 pair type as that is all you need.
#9. I would not skimp on the cabinet in that nice setup. A couple of considerations. Ventillation and easy acces to the back of the components. Pull out shelves if you cannot walk behind it. I would plan on more shelves than you initially think you need. Place it ergonomically so you are not on your knees to change DVDs/Cd, etc. Maybe waiste high at least?
You shouyld make it at least 20" wide, 22" better and 24" deep.