Basement home theatre

[ahmed]

My basement theatre consists of two rooms. Only one is finished at this time.

Audio Gear
■Marantz SR8001
■Emotiva XPA-2 Fronts
■Emotiva XPA-5: Center / Surrounds
■Playstation 3
■WDTV Live
■Tivo HD

Speakers
■Fronts: 2xRTI A9
■Center: CSI A6
■Surrounds: 4xRTI A5
■Subs: 2xDSW Pro 600

Video
■BenQ W6000 projector
■130" 16:9 DIY screen

 

[dkane360]

You need to fix your screen a smidgen

Other than that, looking good!

 

[darien87]

You need to fix your screen a smidgen

Other than that, looking good!

Yeah, you can see the wrinkles next to Jim Carrey's arm on the right side.

Also, try re-taking your pics with flash. It's hard to see most of your equipment.

 

[sawzalot]

Nice set-up and HT Room.

Is that XPA 2 on the (concrete) floor Never mind I see the bottom shelf
How come only one light on the XPA-5 ? Looks to be powered up.Never mind here as well I just looked closer and it is a reflection, sorry.
I love those Amps.

 

[ahmed]

It was some cheap material from ebay. Any recommendations for better screen material are welcome. Usually it is unnoticable unless it is a scene where the camera is panning with a light background.

Yeah, you can see the wrinkles next to Jim Carrey's arm on the right side.

Also, try re-taking your pics with flash. It's hard to see most of your equipment.

 

[steve_1979]

2 subs - nice

 

[craig7]

wow, thats a pretty good lookin system, except for the screen. nice popcorn maker too.

 

[Guavamanh]

nice set up buddy =) love how everthing is dark, great light control... wish I had a dedicated room... dual subs look awesome

agree with the screen, probably distracts during viewing...

thanks for the photos!

 

[burnetet]

wow. love the chairs too.

 

[ahmed]

Since I last made this post, I have been working on finishing the waiting room.
I just finished last weekend. Here are some pictures of the work in progress as well as the final product:

While I was cutting the hole for the recessed can, I ran across the dryer vent:

Cutting further, turned out it was leaking inside the ceiling and I took about a 30 gallon trash bag full of lint!

So I relocated the vent and I used a flex metal pipe connected to a solid metal.

Eventually replaced it with all rigid metal:

 

[ahmed]

Used rigid foam against concrete wall (2.25" total = R11):

Recessed lights replacing florescent:

I did not take any further pictures of the construction process so I will jump straight to the 99% finished room:

Not shown, replaced front door with one that has a window and a built in blind.

 

[90gstman]

Theater is looking like its comming along great.

But please do me a favor and buy some thick gauge metal straps for those two joists that were cut for the dryer vent. That joist is no longer structuraly sound and will fail. At a minimum it will just keep cracking the ceiling drywall in your new theater while making the floor above it very bouncy. At worst it's going to give someone a big headach when it falls and it hits them in the head. The strap should be of a thick gauge, run it at least 16" or more past the cut in both directions with plenty of screws. Screw it right to the bottom of the joist. It won't meet code (I dont think anything you do now will) but at least it won't fall on your head.

You got a lot of movies to watch and we just want to make sure you are alive to do so.

 

[ahmed]

That floor joist is 10" thick and it is doubled up. The hole that I did was only 4", so there is 2x6" left and it is only about 10' long. I have already coverd it up so it will be a huge deal to add anything to it!

 

[JaBear]

Eventually replaced it with all rigid metal:

OMG

That isn't safe in the slightest! This should be fixed ASAP.

 

[Alex2507]

... thick gauge metal straps for those two joists that were cut for the dryer vent.

Your heart's in the right place but that ceiling needs to be opened up like a can of tuna. Each 2x10 needs to be doubled up (sistered) and through bolted with 5/8" all thread ... construction adhesive would probably be good ... screwed, glued and tattooed . The vent hole needs to be in the middle of the 10 inches and away from that notch.

It might seem like a big deal now but it will be a bigger deal later.

Ahmed, nice theater BTW and thanks for posting the pic's. Good luck.

 

[asma123]

looks like it will look nice once you're done doing the renos

 

[ahmed]

JABear, what you mentioned is code for drilling holes. Code also allows notching joists as long as it is not in the middle third of the joist and it does not exceed 1/6 of the depth (about 2" in my case). It could go up to a 3rd of the depth if it is on the top and towards the end.


Here is my argument.

(+) My joists are 2x12. Code allows up to 18feet runs. Mine is only 9.
(-) In my case the notch is 4" (exceeds allowed by code)
(+) Joist is doubled up.
(+) Joist have been functional for 30 years

Sec. 2326.12.4. Notches and holes. Notching at the ends of rafters or ceiling joists shall not exceed one sixth the depth and shall not be located in the middle one third of the span, except that a notch not exceeding one third of the depth is permitted in the top of the rafter or ceiling joist not further from the face of the support than the depth of the member.

Holes bored in rafters or ceiling joists shall not be within 2 inches (51 mm) of the top and bottom and their diameter shall not exceed one third the depth of the member.

Your heart's in the right place but that ceiling needs to be opened up like a can of tuna. Each 2x10 needs to be doubled up (sistered) and through bolted with 5/8" all thread ... construction adhesive would probably be good ... screwed, glued and tattooed . The vent hole needs to be in the middle of the 10 inches and away from that notch.

It might seem like a big deal now but it will be a bigger deal later.

Ahmed, nice theater BTW and thanks for posting the pic's. Good luck.

 

[darien87]

OMG

That isn't safe in the slightest! This should be fixed ASAP.

Reminds me of an episode of Holmes on Homes.