12 volt trigger on amp to turn on and off

[Hetfield]

I never looked into this before but my Parasound amp has the 12 volt trigger to turn it on and off automatically. How do you do this, what do I need? I don't even think my Yamaha receiver currently being used as the processor has the ability to do this but in the near future I'm gonna get a real processor. Is this an easy process to hook up? Is it 100% because I do not want that powerful amp to be on when I'm not home, that could be dangerous. Thanks in advance.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[slipperybidness]

I never looked into this before but my Parasound amp has the 12 volt trigger to turn it on and off automatically. How do you do this, what do I need? I don't even think my Yamaha receiver currently being used as the processor has the ability to do this but in the near future I'm gonna get a real processor. Is this an easy process to hook up? Is it 100% because I do not want that powerful amp to be on when I'm not home, that could be dangerous. Thanks in advance.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Yes, it should be just about dead-simple to use a 12V trigger.

Outputs for 12V triggers will most often be a 3.5mm MONO jack. Inputs for 12V will either be the same 3.5mm jack, or will be 2 set-screws where you strip back the wire, shove it under the correct +/- screw, and tighten the screw.

Modern AVRs, you will likely need to go into the config menus and set up the conditions to send the 12V trigger signal. Your amp may have a switch on the back to tell the amp to power up/down based on the trigger.

Yes, when hooked up correctly, this is 100% reliable.

 

[Hetfield]

Oh excellent thanks, have to do some homework then and see what I need to do with my specific equipment.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[Hetfield]

OK so the Yamaha has a 3.5 mm jack, but the Parasound has the two little screws thing. What cable do I need? I was told to get a 3.5 mm cable and strip one side and put that side into the amp. Does that sound right or no?

 

[slipperybidness]

OK so the Yamaha has a 3.5 mm jack, but the Parasound has the two little screws thing. What cable do I need? I was told to get a 3.5 mm cable and strip one side and put that side into the amp. Does that sound right or no?

Yes, that is the correct approach.

Be sure to get a MONO 3.5mm cable (not a stereo 3.5mm cable). If you already have 3.5mm cables, you should be able to inspect the tip and see if it has 2 connection points then it is MONO. If more than 2, then it is stereo.

So, when you cut/strip the end that will go to the screws, you should have 2 wires in there. The way that I would handle figuring out the +/- wire would be to plug the 3.5mm end into the AVR sending the signal, and clip my Volt Meter to the bare wires on the other end. Then, send out the 12V trigger signal. If the volt meter reads +12V then you know the negative lead of the meter is connected to the negative wire for the 12V trigger. If instead you get -12V, then you know that the negative lead of the volt meter is connected to the positive wire of the trigger.

Obviously, you will need to configure the 12V trigger in the AVR menus first.

Something like this. You don't care what is on the other end, you are cutting it off.
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-35mm-mono-extension-cable-6-ft--240-004

 

[Hetfield]

Yes, that is the correct approach.

Be sure to get a MONO 3.5mm cable (not a stereo 3.5mm cable). If you already have 3.5mm cables, you should be able to inspect the tip and see if it has 2 connection points then it is MONO. If more than 2, then it is stereo.

So, when you cut/strip the end that will go to the screws, you should have 2 wires in there. The way that I would handle figuring out the +/- wire would be to plug the 3.5mm end into the AVR sending the signal, and clip my Volt Meter to the bare wires on the other end. Then, send out the 12V trigger signal. If the volt meter reads +12V then you know the negative lead of the meter is connected to the negative wire for the 12V trigger. If instead you get -12V, then you know that the negative lead of the volt meter is connected to the positive wire of the trigger.

Obviously, you will need to configure the 12V trigger in the AVR menus first.

Something like this. You don't care what is on the other end, you are cutting it off.
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-35mm-mono-extension-cable-6-ft--240-004

Excellent thank you. You explained it perfectly, makes sense now. I think I'm gonna try this. Have to look check out the Yamaha menu and see if I can find the settings for the trigger.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[Hetfield]

Ok I don't get it. Just received a mono 3.5 MM cable, and cut one end off. There is only a single copper, very small wire inside. I was told when I strip it there would be two inside, one to the + of the amp trigger and one to the - of the amp trigger. Where am I going wrong here?

 

[Hetfield]

Ok, I guess there were two copper wires in there, couldn't tell they are very thin. I have it hooked up but its still not working. There are no setting in the Yamaha menu for this either. Any ideas?

 

[Hetfield]

Never mind got it! Was doing something extremely stupid! This is awesome!

 

[PENG]

OK so the Yamaha has a 3.5 mm jack, but the Parasound has the two little screws thing. What cable do I need? I was told to get a 3.5 mm cable and strip one side and put that side into the amp. Does that sound right or no?

Interesting, what model is that, mine has the 2.5 mm sub mini plug, no screws.

 

[Hetfield]

Interesting, what model is that, mine has the 2.5 mm sub mini plug, no screws.

What model Yamaha or Parasound amp? Yamaha is an RX-V663 and Parasound amp is the HCA 1205A.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[PENG]

What model Yamaha or Parasound amp? Yamaha is an RX-V663 and Parasound amp is the HCA 1205A.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I meant the Parasound, my A21 has the plug in/out, wonder why they don't standardize on their product line. My Bryston amp has the screws too, just a little more work, no problem at all. I believe AVRs tend to have the mono RCA, at least my Denon and Marantz do.

 

[Hetfield]

I meant the Parasound, my A21 has the plug in/out, wonder why they don't standardize on their product line. My Bryston amp has the screws too, just a little more work, no problem at all. I believe AVRs tend to have the mono RCA, at least my Denon and Marantz do.

I think because the Parasound is quite a few years old. Maybe 11 years old? I want to say I bought it in 2006? But I'm not really sure. I love Parasound but they only build the more expensive Halo line 5 channel amps. The less expensive New Classic line only does very powerful 2 channel amps. As much as I love Parasound if I had to replace this amp I'd most likely go with Emotiva or Outlaw audio. Halo line is too rich for my blood.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[PENG]

I think because the Parasound is quite a few years old. Maybe 11 years old? I want to say I bought it in 2006? But I'm not really sure. I love Parasound but they only build the more expensive Halo line 5 channel amps. The less expensive New Classic line only does very powerful 2 channel amps. As much as I love Parasound if I had to replace this amp I'd most likely go with Emotiva or Outlaw audio. Halo line is too rich for my blood.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

The HCA amps are also John Curl design and THX ultra certified. Mostly importantly, like the Halo line, they are also class A/AB. I think the newest flag ship Emo amp also operates in A/AB but not sure about their lower models. Why would you need to replace that monster amp? By the way, I got an excellent deal on my A21, don't pay your local dealer's price. I used the A21 in one of my 2 channel system but if I have a decent AVR I wouldn't hesitate using one for the L/R and let the AVR drive the rest. That way you can conserve cash and still have a monster amp for stereo enjoyment.

 

[Hetfield]

The HCA amps are also John Curl design and THX ultra certified. Mostly importantly, like the Halo line, they are also class A/AB. I think the newest flag ship Emo amp also operates in A/AB but not sure about their lower models. Why would you need to replace that monster amp? By the way, I got an excellent deal on my A21, don't pay the regular dealer price. I used the A21 in one of my 2 channel system but if I have a decent AVR I wouldn't hesitate using one for the L/R and let the AVR drive the rest. That way you can conserve cash and still have a monster amp for stereo enjoyment.

Yeah it's John Curl designed and THX Ultra certified. Very cool on both counts actually. I have no doubt I'll never have to replace this amp. I was just saying if I did. I'd go with something like the XPA Gen3 modular amp design but I doubt I'll have the need to do that like you said.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[Pogre]

The HCA amps are also John Curl design and THX ultra certified. Mostly importantly, like the Halo line, they are also class A/AB. I think the newest flag ship Emo amp also operates in A/AB but not sure about their lower models. Why would you need to replace that monster amp? By the way, I got an excellent deal on my A21, don't pay your local dealer's price. I used the A21 in one of my 2 channel system but if I have a decent AVR I wouldn't hesitate using one for the L/R and let the AVR drive the rest. That way you can conserve cash and still have a monster amp for stereo enjoyment.

This is exactly what I'm doing now. Nothing gets HOT and I have plenty of power for 2 channel stereo listening.