Banana clip problems

[jopela]

On the advice of several members I got GLS Gen II Banana clips for my receiver and speakers and am now regretting it. The clips are all metal and kind of long and twice now I have shorted the connections while the system was on and POP (Thankfully no damage though). Once was me being careless. I was moving the receiver to dust and did not turn it off before hand so the wires shifted and shorted. The other was while I was plugging in the power cable for some Christmas lights and the speaker cables that go into the wall plate shifted and I got another short.

Long story short, is there some sort of spacer block I can install between the banana clips to keep them separated, or do I need to reevaluate my clips and go with doubles, or something rubber insulated, or am I just a clumsy boob?

 

[ParadigmDawg]

You need to be more careful.

That being said, the GLS Gen 2 bananas are the worst I have ever used. I have 20 of them in my system and hate them. It is next to impossible to turn the barrel to get them to lock.

 

[j_garcia]

I use the Bluejeans ones and I have had no issues with them. I have been using bananas like this for years and I had been concerned about this happening, though I have only had one short. There are any number of simple things you could do - one would be a little shrink tubing over one or the other of them. You could get a piece of foam and cut it to size to basically sit between all of them (they make these, but you can make it yourself for next to nothing, and cut to suit your exact setup). Yes, you basically need to be more careful.

 

[Adam]

For the lazy among us, you could also wrap a bit of electrical tape (or any tape) around one of the plugs in each pair. If you were to buy new ones, you can buy ones that are already in pairs with a solid plastic clip between them (although I don't know if those will fit every receiver and speaker binding post). I looked for clips that you could buy for yours, but I haven't found any, yet.

I agree about being more careful, though. I've used solid metal banana plugs for years without any issues.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

...electrical tape...dang it...why didn't I think of that... I used that rubber stuff you line cabinets with and zip tied them on. Tape would have been easier.

For the lazy among us, you could also wrap a bit of electrical tape (or any tape) around one of the plugs in each pair. If you were to buy new ones, you can buy ones that are already in pairs with a solid plastic clip between them (although I don't know if those will fit every receiver and speaker binding post). I looked for clips that you could buy for yours, but I haven't found any, yet.

I agree about being more careful, though. I've used solid metal banana plugs for years without any issues.

 

[Adam]

...electrical tape...dang it...why didn't I think of that... I used that rubber stuff you line cabinets with and zip tied them on. Tape would have been easier.

Don't feel bad, Dawg. I have an extensive background of procrastination and laziness aiding my thinking.

 

[jopela]

The heat shrink tubing sounds like a winner. It will give me a chance to play with the new heat gun I got for christmas... and I guess I will need to be a little more careful as well.

Thanks all

EDIT: On second thought, these are screw to lock into place not compression so if I shrink them I will not be able to screw them in... I will have to play whith this a little more.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

I am trying, I sometimes use more time and energy trying to figure out how not to do something, then it would take to just do it!

Don't feel bad, Dawg. I have an extensive background of procrastination and laziness aiding my thinking.

 

[mike_wassell]

The best connection can be made by tinning the bare speaker wire then tightening the binding post down on it.

To tin a wire, apply the tip of your soldering iron to the wire for a second or two and then apply a little solder to the wire which prevents fraying and helps deter corrosion. The solder should flow freely into the wire (stranded wire) and fill it. You may need to snip the end off afterwards, particularly if you have put a little too much solder on and it has formed a little ball at the end of the wire.

The larger the wire, the longer it will take to heat up enough to draw the solder in, so use a higher temperature soldering iron for larger cables if you can.

This is the simplest, least expensive and most direct connection that can be made.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Did you read about how lazy we are?

The best connection can be made by tinning the bare speaker wire then tightening the binding post down on it.

To tin a wire, apply the tip of your soldering iron to the wire for a second or two and then apply a little solder to the wire which prevents fraying and helps deter corrosion. The solder should flow freely into the wire (stranded wire) and fill it. You may need to snip the end off afterwards, particularly if you have put a little too much solder on and it has formed a little ball at the end of the wire.

The larger the wire, the longer it will take to heat up enough to draw the solder in, so use a higher temperature soldering iron for larger cables if you can.

This is the simplest, least expensive and most direct connection that can be made.

 

[phlakvest]

The heat shrink tubing sounds like a winner. It will give me a chance to play with the new heat gun I got for christmas... and I guess I will need to be a little more careful as well.

Thanks all

EDIT: On second thought, these are screw to lock into place not compression so if I shrink them I will not be able to screw them in... I will have to play whith this a little more.

Is there a set screw or does the base unscrew from the cover?

Former, heat shrink then cut a hole for the set screw.

Latter, Heat shrink the base and the cover seperatly. You don't need complete coverage, just enough to create a barier so the metal on one can't easily touch the metal on the other.

 

[Alex2507]

Did you read about how lazy we are?

Besides that solder flows under pressure (theoretically). Tinning the very tip that sticks through the binding post would be okay but not the part that gets screwed down. MidCow2 says it's not an issue in real world applications but to me it's just another good reason to do nothing if you're down with doing nothing.

The BJC locking banana clip option is a little work to start off with but it'll save you a bunch of work later. It's funny that I have re-wired my speakers a lot for various reasons but since I got the BJC locking bananas I haven't needed to do anything to them.

They just sit there looking pretty, mocking me.

 

[j_garcia]

The best connection can be made by tinning the bare speaker wire then tightening the binding post down on it.

To tin a wire, apply the tip of your soldering iron to the wire for a second or two and then apply a little solder to the wire which prevents fraying and helps deter corrosion. The solder should flow freely into the wire (stranded wire) and fill it. You may need to snip the end off afterwards, particularly if you have put a little too much solder on and it has formed a little ball at the end of the wire.

The larger the wire, the longer it will take to heat up enough to draw the solder in, so use a higher temperature soldering iron for larger cables if you can.

This is the simplest, least expensive and most direct connection that can be made.

Other than fray resistance, soldering offers no benefit over any type of connector. If you don't know how to solder properly you can inadvertently create a place for oxidation to occur. The most direct connection would be just bare wire. The loss through a connector is so minimal as to not even be worth mentioning.

Is there a set screw or does the base unscrew from the cover?

Former, heat shrink then cut a hole for the set screw.

Latter, Heat shrink the base and the cover seperatly. You don't need complete coverage, just enough to create a barier so the metal on one can't easily touch the metal on the other.

The outer sleeve is what provides the locking. You can put the shrink wrap around that and it will still screw on without affecting the set screws.

 

[Geno]

The best connection can be made by tinning the bare speaker wire then tightening the binding post down on it.

To tin a wire, apply the tip of your soldering iron to the wire for a second or two and then apply a little solder to the wire which prevents fraying and helps deter corrosion. The solder should flow freely into the wire (stranded wire) and fill it. You may need to snip the end off afterwards, particularly if you have put a little too much solder on and it has formed a little ball at the end of the wire.

The larger the wire, the longer it will take to heat up enough to draw the solder in, so use a higher temperature soldering iron for larger cables if you can.

This is the simplest, least expensive and most direct connection that can be made.

You might want to think about this, and here's why: Solder is pretty soft and actually "flows" when used in a compression-type connector like those binding posts, eventually loosening up. That's why electricians don't "tin" stranded wires going into circuit breakers, receptacles, and switches. These connections will loosen over time and begin arcing & burning. Obviously we're not talking about that kind of amperage with audio signals, but loose connections aren't something you want. If you want to tin your wires, be careful only to tin the very tips (to keep the strands together), but tighten the binding post on the bare copper.

 

[duckpond49]

Slippery banana plugs

Why aren't you using time-tested double banana plugs?

Google them: POMONA - 4892-2 - Double Banana Plug

Many sell them but Newark Electronics has a good description.

They have a polarity tab so you can plug 'em in blindfolded, are set up for an industry standard spacing (if your equipment isn't set up to this spacing, shame on them-I have one NAD receiver that is, one that isn't--go figure.), come in beaucoup colors, and are built to withstand rock 'n' roll or worse.

Just wondering.

 

[mike_wassell]

I don’t understand your guy’s objections to tinning speaker wire. I think you are overlooking the big picture. I have had problems with banana plugs but never had problems with tinned wire. Have any of you guys tried tinned wire connections?

Bare wire is the best connection for speaker wire. Bare wire is used in circuit breakers but it is usually solid wire - does not fray and has a corrosion resistant coating on it thus does not require tinning. However the problem with bare speaker wire is that it is usually not solid, it can fray and corrode. Sure solder corrodes but tinning the wire improves corrosion resistance and tinned wire will not fray. Have any of you compared long term use of spades, banana plugs, and tinning? I have. I have worked at a high end home theater shop (only part time it was a “hobby job”) and also have a high end home system. We did use banana clips at the shop but these were usually factory installed however they also became lose over time. Not lose where the wire connected to the clip but lose in the binding connection.

Tinning is the cheapest and easiest way (besides using just the bare) to connect speakers and you own a soldering iron when you are done. Soldering irons are relatively inexpensive.

Have you ever tinned wire? Even for the first timer it is very easy, takes little time, and almost fool proof. When I first tried tinning speaker wire the only problem I had was not heating the wire enough but after tinning a couple of wires it becomes second nature. Once you heat the wire properly and apply the solder the wire just sucks it up. It actually looks pretty cool. Don’t get tinning confused with soldering two connections together. Soldering two connections together can be very tricky and time consuming.

I have had spades and banana plugs become lose over time. I have never had tinned wires come lose if the binding posts are properly tightened down. I tighten down on the binding post then play with the wire a little (try to pull it in and out and twist it) then I tighten down for the last time. Sure solder flows even when cool. It is malleable and ductile. These are good things. When the tinned wire is put in the binding post and properly tightened down the solder and the wire mold to fill the space available and in my experience does not come lose.

Let me know what your experiences are.

Mike