Which is blow, driver or amp.

B

bcycle

Junior Audioholic
Hello Folks!

Whether I connect from the line level input or the high level inputs; my sub produces a distorted; almost crackly/hissy sound (although you can hear the music content as well). What's the best way to test which is at fault; the amp or driver?

The woofer is a DAYTON RSS315HF-4 and the plate amp is a DAYTON SA240 240W SUBWOOFER AMPLIFIER. I don't own any test equipment. I imagine I can hook the amp up to a spare woofer I might have kicking around to rule it in or out. Any other thoughts? Thanks,

Greg
 
nauc

nauc

Enthusiast
yeah, connect wires to the subs terminals and tap them onto your cars battery terminals. if the speaker moves, its fine

if the sub has more than 1 set of terminals, do them one at a time, checking each voice coil
 
Pyrrho

Pyrrho

Audioholic Ninja
Probably the easiest and best way would be to disconnect the woofer from the amplifier, and hook up the woofer directly to the speaker output of your receiver/amplifier (i.e., hook it up as if it were a full range speaker to your Yamaha RX-V2500). If it works to give you undistorted sound (at normal volumes if it is in the cabinet with the amp in place, or at low volumes if you don't have it in its cabinet with the amp in place blocking the hole in the cabinet), then the woofer itself is fine.

And whatever you do, don't connect anything to your car battery. That is terrible advice.
 
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B

bcycle

Junior Audioholic
Thanks. As you can tell, it is a home unit, not a car. I was concerned that hooking it up direct might damage the woofer since there's no xover. I imagine that's the case with a tweeter, right?

The Woofer is moving but just distorted.

Probably the easiest and best way would be to disconnect the woofer from the amplifier, and hook up the woofer directly to the speaker output of your receiver/amplifier (i.e., hook it up as if it were a full range speaker to your Yamaha RX-V2500). If it works to give you undistorted sound (at normal volumes if it is in the cabinet with the amp in place, or at low volumes if you don't have it in its cabinet with the amp in place blocking the hole in the cabinet), then the woofer itself is fine.

And whatever you do, don't connect anything to your car battery. That is terrible advice.
 
Pyrrho

Pyrrho

Audioholic Ninja
Thanks. As you can tell, it is a home unit, not a car. I was concerned that hooking it up direct might damage the woofer since there's no xover. I imagine that's the case with a tweeter, right?

The Woofer is moving but just distorted.
If the woofer distorts when hooked up directly, there is a problem with the woofer.

A woofer is not harmed by the direct connection, though a tweeter can be if one is not very careful. Typically, tweeters cannot handle much power, and cannot handle much input in low frequencies. Crossovers protect tweeters by filtering out bass frequencies to them.

So, it would appear that you need to replace the subwoofer. However, that does not prove that there is nothing wrong with the subwoofer amplifier, too. You could hook up another woofer to it, which normally would be safe, but sometimes amplifiers have problems that damage speakers. Since the subwoofer was still working (although improperly), it is likely that you could hook up another woofer to the subwoofer amplifier without much danger.

If you have a cheap and unimportant woofer lying about, I would hook it up and try it out to make sure the subwoofer amplifier is still functioning properly. You will want to start with the level turned down quite low, as speakers generally cannot handle as much power when they are not mounted in a cabinet than when they are (due to the air pressure in the cabinet preventing the cone from moving as easily as it can outside of a cabinet).

If it works without distorting at low levels that way, you probably just need to buy another speaker for your subwoofer cabinet.

In the case of rare or valuable speakers, they often can be rebuilt if one cannot find a new one. I do not know what the cost would be for your subwoofer being rebuilt versus just buying a new one. Here is one place that rebuilds woofers; there are several other places one can find also:

http://www.millersound.net/service.htm
 
nauc

nauc

Enthusiast
Thanks. As you can tell, it is a home unit, not a car. I was concerned that hooking it up direct might damage the woofer since there's no xover. I imagine that's the case with a tweeter, right?

The Woofer is moving but just distorted.
a car battery only puts out around 12.6v. that sub, depending on if its 4 ohms or 8 ohms, can handle between 40-56v

v=sqrt of rms*impedance
 
B

bcycle

Junior Audioholic
Thanks folks

OK, thanks nauc and Pyrrho for your kind responses. For now, it seems easiest to connect from the amp straight to the woofer to see if the woofer sounds right. If I can rule that out, then it's the amp. Thanks again.

Greg
 
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