What wood are you using?

[mattsk8]

So, I know what I think is best but I'm just curious what others here think. If you're building a speaker cabinet, what are you using for wood and why? I always thought MDF was the best just based on no voids and almost perfect consistancy in density; but I've also heard the same about baltic birch. To me, unless you were going to finish the birch in a stain, if its arguable I'd go MDF for sure just because it's less than 1/2 the price.

 

[baniels]

1/2 the price, but don't forget the nasty dust.

 

[jliedeka]

MDF also machines nicely but it does produce some nasty dust. HDF, Baltic Birch Plywood, Marine and Aircraft grade plys are all good. On a budget, you could probably get away with regular plywood or particle board with some extra bracing.

There's a recent article here on AH that talks about loudspeaker cabinets. Materials are compared for part of it.

FWIW, I use MDF but may try Baltic for a subwoofer cabinet.

Jim

 

[GranteedEV]

For my next speaker, I want to use bamboo hooked up to a sheet of cement board.

The real nice thing about bamboo is not only how strong it is, but how nicely it can be finished

 

[annunaki]

Although the dust is a pain, MDF is my choice. It offers the best compromises all round, cost, ease of machining, finish options, etc.

For my next subsM in my soon to be finished theater, I will be using MDF construction with a few tweaks for the finish. more to come on that in November & December. Can we say custom end tables?

 

[mattsk8]

MDF also machines nicely but it does produce some nasty dust. HDF, Baltic Birch Plywood, Marine and Aircraft grade plys are all good. On a budget, you could probably get away with regular plywood or particle board with some extra bracing.

There's a recent article here on AH that talks about loudspeaker cabinets. Materials are compared for part of it.

FWIW, I use MDF but may try Baltic for a subwoofer cabinet.

Jim

You need a good dust collector, something like this-
583492, Festool Mobile HEPA Dust Extractor CT 26 E | Beaver Tools Network

I have a dust collector but not that one, on my want list. I do have this Festool sander- 571823, Festool RO 90 DX Rotex Multi-Mode Sander | Beaver Tools Network and this Festool track saw- TS 55 EQ Plunge Cut Circular Saw - PLUNGE CUT CIRCULAR SAWS - Festool Both are absolutely phenominal tools!! A bit pricy, but worth every penny! The track saw basicly replaces the need for a huge cabinet saw. I've built many kitchens w/ that saw and a Rigid portable table saw. I also use the Festool to straight edge my rough sawn hardwood. Thing's bad to the bone!!

Far as the cabinet wood goes, I did read that article; it was a good one. That was actually what got me thinking about it. I'm using MDF for the statements I'm building right now and will use it for the ER18's too. I love it's workability and consistancy.

I could'nt imagine using HDF, stuff's hard as a rock. I'd imagine you'd blow thru blades and router bits like crazy w/ that. As far as marine grade ply, isn't that the green plywood that's always wet and warped? Looks like regular cheap ply but it's green? I think that's what the article rated the best, then they said baltic birch, then HDF, then MDF. I disagree a little just because I've used a lot of baltic birch and even though there's not supposed to be, every once in a while there are some voids in the plys. I love the MDF and think I'll stick w/ that! I did read that there's two grades of MDF, one's chinese garbage and the other's not. Wonder how you tell the difference and I wonder what the big box stores have cuz that's basicly where I get my MDF? All the MDF I've ever seen looks the same. Just because I work in recycling I do know the diff between chinese and regular cardboard. The chinese cardboard is more orange than the regular. I wonder if the same applies to the MDF? Would the rice version of MDF be orangish too?

Never thought of bamboo. I guess that would be another good option. I'm sure it's consistant in desity and super hard too because of the glue they use while manufacturing it. Plus it does look sweet finished. I've done some bamboo flooring and it is a bit of a blade eater too though.

 

[j_garcia]

I've always used MDF also, 5/8" or 3/4".

 

[mattsk8]

For my next speaker, I want to use bamboo hooked up to a sheet of cement board.

The real nice thing about bamboo is not only how strong it is, but how nicely it can be finished

That would be tough but these speakers are sweet looking! Looks like they either did a good job covering the cement board through the port or they didn't use cement board. I'd imagine cement board would be tough to get the original cabinet glued and sealed up good just because it's so brittle. Maybe make a frame out of 1x2 to screw the cement board to first?

Whoever did those cabinets in the pic put a lot of time in. See the corners, how the grain changes directions? A lot of biscuit joining and routing. Looks sweet though! I think I might steal that idea when I finish the ER18's for my basement except w/ cherry, not bamboo. Still thinking of some design ideas to finish off those tritrix. I was thinking satin black w/ some wire mesh grills and some retro black fender amp style grill cloth behind em, but the more I think about it I'm afraid it might look cheesy. I'm trying to go for the Road Warrior look w/ em.

Anyone ever done cabinets where you basically make one inside cabinet, then a 3/4" air space and an outside cabinet; then fill the air space w/ quickcrete? Bet those weigh about 200lbs each when theyre done! I don't think I have that much ambition !

 

[lsiberian]

I've used both and both have advantages and disadvantages.

But what has made me stick with ply is discussions with woodworkers. When asked this question they almost always answer ply. I'm not smart enough to know better than these guys so I've stuck with ply. Since I've mostly used ply here's the skinny.

Advantages:
It's light. Way lighter than MDF

It produces less dust. (could be a disadvantage if you like getting dirty)

It's typically stiffer.

It can be finished. (this does require planning and construction technique and is not easy)

Disadvantages:
Harder to cut. You really want a good blade if you work with Ply.

Seems to warp more easily.(this is a major pain and a big issue for speaker building. It is the main reason I would go with MDF.)

It costs more. (Considering the labor you are going to put in the price is small for a personal project.)

I haven't used MDF enough to really know MDF.

 

[lsiberian]

You need a good dust collector, something like this-
583492, Festool Mobile HEPA Dust Extractor CT 26 E | Beaver Tools Network

I have a dust collector but not that one, on my want list. I do have this Festool sander- 571823, Festool RO 90 DX Rotex Multi-Mode Sander | Beaver Tools Network and this Festool track saw- TS 55 EQ Plunge Cut Circular Saw - PLUNGE CUT CIRCULAR SAWS - Festool Both are absolutely phenominal tools!! A bit pricy, but worth every penny! The track saw basicly replaces the need for a huge cabinet saw. I've built many kitchens w/ that saw and a Rigid portable table saw. I also use the Festool to straight edge my rough sawn hardwood.

I use a Bosch CS10 equipped with a Forest woodworker blade with a dust collection attachment and those self clamping Rockler straight edges(best thing I've bought).

A cheap plug in drill, and a 1617 router with the plunge base and a dust collection attachment. I use a shop vac to collect the dust. I'd love to have a table saw or track saw, but I get the job done without it. Good blades and bits make life much easier. I've found white-side bits to be amazing.

 

[GO-NAD!]

I've done a lot of projects with both plywood (no cabinet grade though) and MDF. For speaker projects, I like MDF for its versatility. And, since it's cheap, I don't mind screwing up a piece as much. If I'm painting or veneering - it's MDF, for sure.

The dust is a concern, but one should be concerned about the dust from any wood - not just MDF. I have a good dust collector; I have to, since my workshop is in my basement.

That said, I'm leaning towards sonosubs for my next project, because MDF enclosures would be so frickin' heavy and I need to place them behind a false wall.

 

[mattsk8]

I use a Bosch CS10 equipped with a Forest woodworker blade with a dust collection attachment and those self clamping Rockler straight edges(best thing I've bought).

A cheap plug in drill, and a 1617 router with the plunge base and a dust collection attachment. I use a shop vac to collect the dust. I'd love to have a table saw or track saw, but I get the job done without it. Good blades and bits make life much easier. I've found white-side bits to be amazing.

Forest definitely makes good blades, maybe the best. Another good one that's quite a bit cheaper is Tenryu. They cut awesome and they're about 1/2 the price of the Forest blades; about the same price as Freud industrial blades.

Never used the Bosch router before but I've heard good things about it. I have a Dewalt 621 for freehand or plunge routing and a Porter Cable 7519 in my router table. The PC's a moose!! Also 2nd the Whiteside router bits, those are awesome; they last longer than the Freud bits (which are also decent). Another good place for router bits is here MLCS Router Bits Index They have a lot of good deals if you're a member and their prices are reasonable. Haven't used their bits a whole lot but the ones I have used seem to be decent. I got their 1/2", 66 piece set and it's got a lot of nice bits w/ it for the money.

So no one here's had any experiance w/ the marine grade ply? Just curious what ply that is.

Also, void free Baltic birch is different from the cabinet grade birch you can get from HD. It has more plys and generally cost more/sheet. Menards sells it but if you go to Woodcraft or a specialty store like that you'll usually get better quality for a similar price, just FYI. The ply they said was better than MDF was the Baltic birch.

 

[Wafflesomd]

Birch Ply, at least 11 ply. Use it for every cabinet I build. Used MDF once and I'll never use it again.

I actually get my wood from lowes. The 11 ply they have is really nice and it can't be beat for $35/sheet here. Have few local lumber places but they're all pretty expensive for my use since I'm building only PA cabinets. It all eventually gets coated in duratex.

Using just a circular saw with a 7" dewalt blade that gets me some really nice cuts. Router and hand saw and that's all I use.

CAn get pretty good results with simple tools.

http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b171/WafflesOMD/?action=view&current=IMG_3685.jpg

 

[mattsk8]

Birch Ply, at least 11 ply. Use it for every cabinet I build. Used MDF once and I'll never use it again.

I actually get my wood from lowes. The 11 ply they have is really nice and it can't be beat for $35/sheet here. Have few local lumber places but they're all pretty expensive for my use since I'm building only PA cabinets. It all eventually gets coated in duratex.

Using just a circular saw with a 7" dewalt blade that gets me some really nice cuts. Router and hand saw and that's all I use.

CAn get pretty good results with simple tools.

IMG_3685.jpg picture by WafflesOMD - Photobucket

Our Lowes sells the same wood for $50 per 3/4" sheet here in MI! It is waaaay nicer than HD's though. HD's is like 5 ply I think verses the 11 ply from Lowes.

Just out of curiosity, what problems did you have w/ the MDF?