What do I need? Power related...

[armaraas]

Ok, so I got an MWF-15. I had it plugged into an outlet (a switched one) where the sub will most likely be placed. I couple of times during the night I hear a popping noise coming from it. I'm thinking it was caused by the mini fridge kicking on and off that's on the other outlet of the receptable. The fridge is on a surge protector, and the MWF wasn't.

So I got out an older UPS (not a high end one) I wasn't using, and plugged that in to the wall and connected the sub to that. Still popped. So I then moved the sub to the middle of the room so I could plug it into my power conditioner that my other equipment was plugged into. No more popping! However, if I turn on a flourescent light that's on that side of the room, you can hear it through the sub.

However, I still need to move the sub back to it's original place. So my question is, what the heck do I need to get to plug the sub into to keep the noises from other objects coming through it? Is it even possible?
The light doesn't bother me so much as it's not turned on and off frequently, but the fridge is problematic.

Do I just need a decent power conditioner? Is there a specific feature I should be looking for? I was wondering if something like an APC C3 would do the trick- http://apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=C3
Of course since pretty much only the sub will be on it, I don't want to buy anything too fancy and expensive.

But since the sub still made noise from the light while in my main power conditioner, I'm thinking either it might not be possible to keep it from happening, or the power conditioner I bought isn't all that great (lose-lose)...it's a Newpoint from buy.com. Thanks for any suggestions anyone can offer.

 

[Alex2507]

There is a sticky thread regarding ground loop issues.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5667

Having something like this as the receptacle in your switched outlet is probably a good idea.

https://www.tselectronic.com/leviton_ac/5280w.html?tse_Session=5267aa473c41b8da276e9894d3ee7e67

You can get a circuit tester at Home Depot I believe that will tell you that your grounds are good. It's just a little yellow three pronged plug with lights on the back of it indicating that all is well in the case of the green light. I found it!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004WLJV/ref=pd_cp_hi_0?pf_rd_p=277661601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004WLJM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=11WZYEW2ZRKJ39TFGVDJ

BTW: This is my 1000th post. With the click of a button I will be transformed into a ....?

 

[TLS Guy]

Ok, so I got an MWF-15. I had it plugged into an outlet (a switched one) where the sub will most likely be placed. I couple of times during the night I hear a popping noise coming from it. I'm thinking it was caused by the mini fridge kicking on and off that's on the other outlet of the receptable. The fridge is on a surge protector, and the MWF wasn't.

So I got out an older UPS (not a high end one) I wasn't using, and plugged that in to the wall and connected the sub to that. Still popped. So I then moved the sub to the middle of the room so I could plug it into my power conditioner that my other equipment was plugged into. No more popping! However, if I turn on a flourescent light that's on that side of the room, you can hear it through the sub.

However, I still need to move the sub back to it's original place. So my question is, what the heck do I need to get to plug the sub into to keep the noises from other objects coming through it? Is it even possible?
The light doesn't bother me so much as it's not turned on and off frequently, but the fridge is problematic.

Do I just need a decent power conditioner? Is there a specific feature I should be looking for? I was wondering if something like an APC C3 would do the trick- http://apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=C3
Of course since pretty much only the sub will be on it, I don't want to buy anything too fancy and expensive.

But since the sub still made noise from the light while in my main power conditioner, I'm thinking either it might not be possible to keep it from happening, or the power conditioner I bought isn't all that great (lose-lose)...it's a Newpoint from buy.com. Thanks for any suggestions anyone can offer.

That's a tricky one! The noise is coming from the motor switch.

The problem is I doubt a surge suppressor will be fast enough.

This noise needs suppressing at source.

Your options are to get an always on UPS, that has the inverter always working. This is expensive and a waste of energy.

Have an appliance tech install a 250 volt cap, of a value between 100 nF an 1 MFD across the contacts of the fridge motor contacts.

Getting a new fridge that has proper electrical noise suppression.

Having an electrician provide a separate circuit for your sub.

 

[Rickster71]

That's a tricky one! The noise is coming from the motor switch.

The problem is I doubt a surge suppressor will be fast enough.

This noise needs suppressing at source.

Your options are to get an always on UPS, that has the inverter always working. This is expensive and a waste of energy.

Have an appliance tech install a 250 volt cap, of a value between 100 nF an 1 MFD across the contacts of the fridge motor contacts.

Getting a new fridge that has proper electrical noise suppression.

Having an electrician provide a separate circuit for your sub.

When you take into consideration the power requirements of the fridge, and the Sub all on the same circuit. Also whatever else is tied to that circuit.
I'll take the option behind door number 4. The separate circuit.

 

[armaraas]

Ugh.
Thanks for the information everyone, I was afraid it wouldn't be simple...
I forgot to mention I currently have the sub on a cheater plug because of a ground loop problem. It isn't tied to cable or anything, it appears to be within the electrical wiring from the troubleshooting I did. I am awaiting a 1 to 1 transformer to see how that works for the ground loop.

Replacing the mini fridge won't be an option since I just got it a few months ago, seemed like such a good idea at the time...
The dedicated circuit might not actually be too hard since the electrical panel is right below the sub, 2 floors down. However this room isn't probably going to be my permanent location (furtherest room from the furnace, gets way too hot in here during the summer).

It might be time to buy some wood and start framing the basement...
I can run all the dedicated circuits I want down there, the problem there will be the utility room and noise...

Does the "popping" sound from things kicking on or off harm the sub/amp in anyway??

 

[armaraas]

Ok, does anyone have any thoughts on if this would solve my issue of hearing the fridge's condensor kicking off through the sub?
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IS250-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B00006HPFH/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1213903126&sr=1-12

That's probably not big enough for the sub to be plugged into since it's only 250 watts, but would it work just as well if the fridge was plugged into it instead? (I still need to find the power rating for the fridge, but an upright freezer is like 5.5 or 6 amps, so I'm hoping a mini fridge isn't more than 2).

There is a 500 watt version I could plug the sub into, but it's almost $70 more and I'm not sure if this warrants spending that much...
Thanks for any feedback/opinions.

 

[TLS Guy]

Ok, does anyone have any thoughts on if this would solve my issue of hearing the fridge's condensor kicking off through the sub?
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IS250-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B00006HPFH/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1213903126&sr=1-12

That's probably not big enough for the sub to be plugged into since it's only 250 watts, but would it work just as well if the fridge was plugged into it instead? (I still need to find the power rating for the fridge, but an upright freezer is like 5.5 or 6 amps, so I'm hoping a mini fridge isn't more than 2).

There is a 500 watt version I could plug the sub into, but it's almost $70 more and I'm not sure if this warrants spending that much...
Thanks for any feedback/opinions.

That isolation transformer will not help. The turn on spikes are a rapid change in current and voltage and will pass back through the transformer just the same.

I gave you your options.