What are your thoughts on...

Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
<font color='#000000'>Pick me one up while you are at it.
</font>
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Shinerman

Shinerman

Senior Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>Me to! &nbsp;

Seriously though, do you have bad power now? &nbsp;If not why bother? &nbsp; A basic power strip will do fine and a fraction of the cost. &nbsp;

Shinerman</font>
 
ThA tRiXtA

ThA tRiXtA

Full Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>well I live in a huge highrise apartment building and share power and cable signal with about 500 units... So I thought this would help clean up the cable picture a bit and help the electrical signal out a bit too ... but reading some peoples reviews on this site states that it actually seemed to cut out some of the hi fidelity out of their audio system...

So I am just wondering if anyone has tested or used one of these exact items?</font>
 
S

stiletto pat

Audioholic
<font color='#000000'>What do the fine members of this forum think about the Monster Power AVS 2000 Voltage Stabilizer? &nbsp;That seems to be a worthwhile product, or do most of the members think it's just hype?
Pat
</font>
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
<font color='#000000'>Put my vote in for hype!

My receiver states to PLUG INTO WALL. I think they say this for a reason. I am no expert, but I have found that in most cases it is best to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.</font>
 
O

OkieG

Audiophyte
I don't know if it's hype or not, but I have both an AVS 2000 and an HTPS 7000, and am questioning their value. Both units were purchased used, but in very good shape. Both are built like tanks. That's reassuring, but the readings on my handheld volt meter are not. This evening, for example, the handheld meter read 118.3v from the wall outlet..the face of the AVS 2000 read that it was correcting the voltage to 120.0v +/-0.1v, but 118.3v was registered on the handheld volt meter when plugged into the back. The front panel of the HTPS 7000 reads anywhere from 114v to 119v, but the output from the back panel plug-ins was 118.3v as read on the handheld volt meter.

What's going on here? Seems like both units are just passing wall voltage along through their circuitry to the outlets in back.

OkieG
 
Last edited:
HookedOnSound

HookedOnSound

Full Audioholic
It's always about POWER...

OkieG,

don't forget to account for the margin of error of your hand held unit.

Most mfg. will state their measurements either directly on the unit or in their manual.

Depending on the brand, tolerances can vary alot. Fluke meters are very good but expensive for a reason.

If you can, try getting/borrowing another voltmeter to collaborate your results.

If your wall outlet is measuring 118.x something and 118.x is coming from the filtered outlet of your line conditioner you should be fine. A line conditioner (all the ones that I have seen) will only clean up the voltage noise because it will reproduce a new sine wave signal but it will not add any more power than the originating source.

Are you currently having issues or simply a question to understand your measurements?

Your equipment is designed with some forgiveness in mind. This is rare but can happen, I ran into an issue once where a product had to operate within a ±3% difference but my local utility company would only guarantee something like ±10%. I ended up switching to another vendor product that didn't experience these issues because a line conditioner was not practical.

Good Luck
 
O

OkieG

Audiophyte
Are you currently having issues or simply a question to understand your measurements?

Hooked,
I guess a little of both. The AVS 2000 shows constant fluctuation of wall voltage...up to +/-3volts, but the output window shows a rock solid 120v +/- a few 10ths. The HTPS 7000 is plugged into the back of the AVS 2000. I've tried to attach an example of what I typically see on the front panels. The bottom unit is the voltage stabilizer. The left window shows the voltage that should be available to the plugs in back. The top unit is the line conditioner. It's window shows the voltage it's being fed. At least, that's the way I think it works.

Somehow, I thought the voltage out the back of the AVS 2000 would be the same steady ~120v as the window indicated on the front panel. And, shouldn't the HTPS 7000 line conditioner window show the stabilized voltage value it's being supplied by the AVS 2000? Instead, the value varies from 114v to 119v typically. Because I don't understand, these confusing readings cast doubt in my mind that the units are performing as intended.

Thanks for the voltmeter tip. If I can find another, I will try it for comparison.

Thanks,

OkieG
 

Attachments

Last edited by a moderator:
A

Aliixer

Audioholic
reviving this thread!!!

So what was your end result with the second volt meter. was the monster voltage stabilizer actually working? I too am interested in the validity of these products with a scientific approach. I hate the monster site (oh it improved my soundstage and colors are more vibrant). I say prove it with facts .
 
R

Rtstrider

Junior Audioholic
I too am eager to see the scientific approach...Hell I got the Dynex power conditioner and it works great for me...It took out this real high pitched ac hum going through my surround system...But to be honest I notice little to any difference in picture...But tit's just something about it that maximized my sound....Still can't figure it out....lol....It's a HTIB and sounds like a freakin movie theatre in my room....Oh well....Wish I had a logical explanation for the improvement in sound....But all I know is that it works...And being a former bb employee I got it for an incredibly huge discount....If tit wasen't for that then I would've said forget it....
 
Shadow_Ferret

Shadow_Ferret

Audioholic Chief
I wish I had found this forum before I spent $80 on one of those Monster strip thingies. It was shortly after a power surge took out all our TVs and the guy at American TV talked me into it with our new TV.
 
D

DaveOCP

Audioholic
No offense to anyone here who has spent a lot of money on the Monster conditioners, but I think they are massively overpriced wastes of money.

In regards to the AVS 2000 voltage regulator, it uses a large, variable transformer hooked up to a motor, and is only capable of regulating long term, slow changes in available wall voltage. If you measure your wall output and find that it is consistently well below 115V, then the hooking up the HTS 2000 may help. Unfortunately, it has absolutely no power cleaning or noise reduction itself, and should not be used with power amplifiers or large receivers because it is actually much slower to react to quick demands for lots of power than the wall outlet itself.

Monsters PLC's have moderate power cleaning and noise reduction ability, but at the cost of limited current output, so again, you cant use them with amps and big receivers. Source components may benefit a little (if your wall power is excpetionally noisy), but not enough to be worth the money. Neither is capable of fixing a clipped AC wave form, which is often the big problem when you are dealing with a situation of a large number of high drain devices hooked up to a circuit that may not be under your control. Surge protection is just the same basic MOVs that are in you're average power strip.

Shunyata Hydras and Chang Lightspeeds use basically a bunch of large capacitors in a box. They are not current limiting, and (the Changs at least, not sure about the Shunyatas) have the ability to break ground loops, which can be a nice bonus. AC noise reduction is better than the Monster stuff, but you are paying an awful lot of money for a bunch of large capacitors in a box. They also use basic MOVs to stop surges.

The Richard Gray stuff are parallel transformers, and the PS audio passive conditioners are series transformers. They'll both tell you that their method is better. I've tried them both, and I think the Richard Grays do a better job. Again though, neither can fix a damaged AC wave form. The only products that can do that are PS's AC regenerators, which give you perfect power and perfect 60hz (or 50 or 90 or whatever speed you want) waveforms. The AC regenerators can take the worst power imaginable and turn it into perfect lab grade power, but be aware that they are very expensive, and very inefficient because of the AC\DC\AC process. You get about half the wattage back out that goes in from the wall.
 
Last edited:
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top