Using two subwoofers?

[The Dali]

Hello everyone, I've never used two subwoofers with my home theater before. I have an extra Polk Audio sub that is lying around and I thought I might try updating one of my systems with TWO subs at the same time. Is this possible with a standard 5.1 system? If so, how would you set up the two at the same time? I don't have a pressing need, but my wife is sick of seeing it in the dining room and I haven't been able to sell it so I thought I might use it.

 

[Adam]

Hi, Steve. That's certainly possible. A number of people here do that. In addition to any advice from the members that you'll get, I recommend that you check out the AH article on setting up multiple subwoofers at the link here. On the main website, there's a "Tips & Tricks" menu with some good stuff, one of which is "Get Good Bass". The multiple subwoofer connection guide is just one of the articles.

 

[Midcow2]

I agree with Adam and the connection on powered subs

Hi, Steve. That's certainly possible. A number of people here do that. In addition to any advice from the members that you'll get, I recommend that you check out the AH article on setting up multiple subwoofers at the link here. On the main website, there's a "Tips & Tricks" menu with some good stuff, one of which is "Get Good Bass". The multiple subwoofer connection guide is just one of the articles.

I agree with what Adam sayes. The connection on powered subs is at the LFE (Low Frequency Effect) or SUB preout and you can connect both subs using an adapter like this: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040107&p_id=2050&seq=1&format=2
or a split y cable: http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=663

The other key thing which the article implies is that both Subs should be the same. You don't want two different subs. This sometimes happens when a person has an older sub abd decides to upgrade and then thinks what the heck I will use both; DON'T unless the upgrade sub is the same.

Good Luck!

MidCow2

 

[j_garcia]

They don't need to be identical subs for them to work together, however you WILL be limited by the weaker of the two subs, so that is something to consider if one of them is quite obviously the lesser of the two.

 

[Sheep]

You will have to decided where to put them and what roles they will play. I run 2 different subwoofers in my stereo, and I keep the weaker one running up front on the higher frequencies. The louder, lower playing one stays behind the riser in the opposite corner and I keep the crossover around 40Hz so it doesn't call attention to itself (until low bass comes of course!).

Experiment, see what works for you.

SheepStar

 

[Jack Hammer]

Before you accept that different subs won't sound good together, try them and find out for yourself. I was able to use an 8" sub with my 12" sub. I found when properly placed the sound was better using both than just one. It's all about setup. If it doesn't sound good you really haven't lost anything other than a little time.

Jack

 

[bandphan]

using an external crossover like the dcx2496 from behringer, will help insure seamless intergration..

 

[ThA tRiXtA]

using an external crossover like the dcx2496 from behringer, will help insure seamless intergration..

When running dual subs why would an external crossover be beneficial but you can get away with the run of the mill crossover that is included in your AVR?

 

[bandphan]

When running dual subs why would an external crossover be beneficial but you can get away with the run of the mill crossover that is included in your AVR?

Non identical subs need two crossovers. Then with others once room response is measured proper filters and slope can be applied. The dcx is far more powerful than an avr.

 

[KLR]

Subwoofer solution

Like many here, I have accumulated audio equipment for decades. I recently decided to try two old AR3As(bought in 1969) as subwoofers and after reading a post about using a Radio Shack SPL meter and a Rivas Test CD 2 to check the system, I got those items and did the drill. I had always thought that the AR3As were good down to about 40 hz. The AR spec sheet shows they are down 5db at 30hz and down about 12 db at 20hz. With the Rivas CD that has 30 bands with LF bands at 20hz, 25hz. 31.5 hz, 40hz etc. I found that they do go all the way down. With the volume set so 1000hz registered 80db on the SPL meter, the 40 hz tone registered 75, 31.5 registered 81db, 25 hz registered 72 db and 20 hz registered 74 db.

I turned up the bass control part way and ran it again(still with 1000hz at 80db). This time 40hz registered 84db, 31.5hz was 88db, 25hz was 87db and 20 hz was 81db.

I've never knowingly heard anything that low. 25hz and 20hz rattled the furniture and felt like an earthquake. Out of curiosity I set the volume so 1000hz registered 90db, then replayed the test CD. The speakers held up well at 25 hz but at 20 hz the cone fluttered but couldn't load the air.

The CD was played through a Pioneer Elite 91 TXH receiver connected through the pre out to an old Audio Control C22 equalizer(turned off) to an old Carver M500 amp feeding the AR3As.

So if you have some good old speakers and don't want to buy a subwoofer, try using the old ones. They made good speakers in those days.

 

[bandphan]

^ id be looking for 100dbs + down to about 25hz