U.S. a/v equipment in Europe

[RSabo]

So, I recently moved to Europe. Obviously the voltage here (220V) is not the same as in the U.S. (110V). Knowing this, I bought a convertor. Unfortunately, when I powered on my Pioneer VSX-523 receiver, I saw a flash, the speakers hummed and then it shut down. Fearing the worst, I removed the cover to inspect the interior electronics for scortch marks or melted plastic. Thankfully, all I found was a single popped fuse.

However, after replacing both fuses (because why not just to be safe), and using a 300 watt transformer, the unit simply makes a clicking noises.

I figured maybe I needed more power, so I tried a 1875 watt transformer, same clicking, only this time there is a buzz coming from the area that the power cord plugs into the circuit board and the fuses.

I need to know what type of power supply I would need to safely use my equipment. I would really like to enjoy my stereo while I am here instead of just the television speakers. Someone please help!

 

[Jeepers]

Most likely the voltage will be 230V. Does your convertor also contain a 60Hz to 50Hz convertor ?

 

[RSabo]

I think so? The 300w transformer I tried initially, says A.C. 50/60 Hz for both input and output. But the 1875w transformer says nothing about the frequency.

 

[markw]

The transformer may well be fine for the European 50hz, but your receiver may not be happy with it.

 

[RSabo]

Any suggestions?

 

[Speedskater]

The US system is now 120V/240V and is moving towards 125V/250V. It hasn't been 110V for nearly a half century. The same voltage creep is happening in Europe.
We know that 50 HZ places more demands on a power transformer. If a legacy transformer was designed for 110V it may not be happy at 120/120V. Nor would it be happy with a 240V to 120V step-down transformer.

 

[markw]

Honestly, for what it MIGHT cost to convert to EU standard, you might be better off getting a new (or used) unit that's made for over there.

 

[RSabo]

Honestly, for what it MIGHT cost to convert to EU standard, you might be better off getting a new (or used) unit that's made for over there.

Thats what I feared. Thanks for the info

 

[TLS Guy]

Most likely the voltage will be 230V. Does your convertor also contain a 60Hz to 50Hz convertor ?

If the fuses blew, then that receiver is now toast.

I always advise against your plan. Buy new equipment in Europe.

 

[TLS Guy]

It was late last night, and I did not feel up to explaining why you blew up your receiver.

The major issue was phase. US equipment is almost always polarized now so that you can only plug it in with a plug that connects one lead to neutral, which is connected to ground at the panel, so stays at zero potential. The live goes +60 volts and - 60 volts with respect to ground, giving a peak to peak voltage of 120 volts.

Now when you connect to a transformer, there is no longer a neutral. So the cable to your receiver has +60 to - 60 volts on what should be the neutral at zero voltage. the transformer isolates the equipment from the mains, but the voltage is what is known as floating. There is no longer a neutral. If the equipment is not designed for that you have a problem.

In the US 240 volt appliances use two phases with 240 volts peak to peak. In Europe the 240 volts is single phase with a neutral.

So you made a common mistake, only considering voltage. You must always consider phase going from country to country, and frequency of the AC mains. It is especially important to understand how the power converter you use changes the phase relationships. However the phase relationships must always be considered, or you will have the disaster you caused.

 

[KenM10759]

I probably would have made the same assumptions that a converter would do the job...and would have gotten the same results. Just shows how little I know.

Of course I knew both the voltage and frequency is different, I just assumed the converters worked "as advertised." I'm wondering how so much equipment sold here has a simple little switch to go from 120/60 to 240/50 and it doesn't look like a whole lotta circuitry in there.

 

[Speedskater]

Oh dear, the last post has so many errors, I don't know where to start.
While it's true that the Neutral is referenced to the Safety Ground at the main breaker panel. The AC power inside your component is insulated from the chassis and SG. Finding wall-outlets with the Hot & Neutral swapped is not uncommon, yet equipment still operates. That is until there is a fault then things get real bad.

A +60V & - 60V system is a balanced power circuit, there are different safety rules for these systems.

All these AC voltage measurements are RMS voltages, peak voltage does not enter thise discussion.

Almost all residential AC power is single phase both int the US and Europe. (but there are a few exceptions)

The US 240V system is a dual polarity single phase system. With Hot 120V, Neutral, Hot 120V circuits.

phase has nothing to do with it.

 

[TLS Guy]

Oh dear, the last post has so many errors, I don't know where to start.
While it's true that the Neutral is referenced to the Safety Ground at the main breaker panel. The AC power inside your component is insulated from the chassis and SG. Finding wall-outlets with the Hot & Neutral swapped is not uncommon, yet equipment still operates. That is until there is a fault then things get real bad.

A +60V & - 60V system is a balanced power circuit, there are different safety rules for these systems.

All these AC voltage measurements are RMS voltages, peak voltage does not enter thise discussion.

Almost all residential AC power is single phase both int the US and Europe. (but there are a few exceptions)

The US 240V system is a dual polarity single phase system. With Hot 120V, Neutral, Hot 120V circuits.

phase has nothing to do with it.

Well the point is which line the phases are on.

We have had this issue before with equipment blowing up.

In the old days there was a mechanical switch and the power went directly to the primary of the power transformer. So only the voltage being correct mattered.

Now we have those electronic start circuits ahead of the transformer. The start button is just a momentary switch, plus a start circuit that the remote activates. I'm pretty sure those circuits have to be country specific for the way the power is delivered.

The fact is that he had instant flash up and blown fuses, so the unit did not like it. This is not the first report of this on these forums by a long shot.

 

[Speedskater]

I have no idea of what you are trying to say.

*********************************
The US has:

Single phase 240V, center taped for 120/120V. For residential and small commercial.

Three phase at various voltages. For industrial and commercial.

Yes there are a few rare exceptions.

 

[TheWarrior]

I have no idea of what you are trying to say.

*********************************
The US has:

Single phase 240V, center taped for 120/120V. For residential and small commercial.

Three phase at various voltages. For industrial and commercial.

Yes there are a few rare exceptions.

Not sure why you are hung up on phase but when an amp was designed to accept AC power, it has one hot and one neutral connection. The OP connected to a DC transformer which ended up delivering twice the voltage.

You can buy voltage adapters for your shaver. Not for an amplifier, at least not one I would ever trust!

 

[Speedskater]

Because the 'TSL Guy's posts are confusing.

A 'DC' transformer???
Some small DC to DC voltage converters are called transformers, but they don't fit the electrical definition.

 

[mtrycrafts]

...Knowing this, I bought a convertor. ...

Can you tell us/me more about this converter? What does it convert to what?