Turn receiver on and it turns off right away

[mavrick]

I have a Yamaha 2095 Home Theater Receiver. Today it went off by itself under very little load (ie. low volume, FM radio source). When I press the power button it comes on like normal (ie. I can change source, change channel, etc.) but shuts off within about 1-2 seconds. this is the same whether I attempt to change volume, source, etc or just leave it alone.

I have tried the normal troubleshooting; different power location, with/without surge suppressor/UPS, disconnect all connections, reconnect all the connections, etc.

I looked for an external fuse but didn't find anything on the back. I have not yet popped the cover off to look at the system board for a fuse or anything else internal.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[markw]

Check ALL speaker connections for short circuits. If none are found, it may be time to send it in for service.

 

[Unregistered]

Check all cables and also make sure that cable lengths are correct. (i.e. main left and main right cables are the same length.)

 

[Rÿche 1]

Check all cables and also make sure that cable lengths are correct. (i.e. main left and main right cables are the same length.)

Cable lengths do not have to be the same. That is a myth.

 

[ruadmaa]

Receiver Turning Off

Disconnect all cables and only connect a headphone set and see if the receiver still turns off. If it does, I'm afraid it needs repaired.

 

[markw]

Now this is just stupid.

Check all cables and also make sure that cable lengths are correct. (i.e. main left and main right cables are the same length.)

People, if you want to contribute, please register. Otherwise you might be mistaken for this clueless joker.

 

[mavrick]

Update

I pulled every connection off again and tried the suggestions, but it still shuts off right away after I turn it on. I guess it looks like a trip to the repair shop or the dump. Does anyone have a guess what the component might be that is defective and a ball park cost? My first thought is power supply....

I am trying to decide if it is worth having it looked at. The repair shops in town have a mandatory $90 fee just to look at it. If it needs repair and I have it done there they apply the $90 to the bill. if not, no refund...

This unit was overkill for what it was being used for (whole house audio) so I may just go out and get an inexpensive 2-channel receiver/amp...

Any thoughts?

 

[joelincoln]

Try opening it up yourself.

Look around for something burned or disconnected. Use a magnifying glass to inspect the circuit card(s) for damaged components.

You might be able to identify the problem and then ask the repair guy how much it might cost.

 

[markw]

Try opening it up yourself.

Look around for something burned or disconnected. Use a magnifying glass to inspect the circuit card(s) for damaged components.

You might be able to identify the problem and then ask the repair guy how much it might cost.

The problem with this is that while he might replace what you THINK look like obviously damaged comopnents, there have been no steps taken to fix what caused them to burn out in the first place. Many times obviously bruned out components are only yht final link in a chain of other problems.

That's why techs get the big bucks. They know how to fix the real problem, not just put a band aid on a bullet wound.

What you're suggerting is askin to trying to do a root canal with a Black & Decker 3/8" variable speed drill and some epoxy. Sounds logical at first and looks like it's doable to the ininitiated but without the proper knowledge and experience can be quite disasterous since dangers lurk for the unknowing.

Personally, I have questions on how this receiver was implemented into a whole house system. Impedance/load problems perhaps?

 

[Shinerman]

How many speakers are you running off this receiver?

Also, depending on your application, I would probably look around for a nice used Amp or even another A/V receiver. You can find some really good deals on used Amps and A/V receivers are packing more bang for the buck than ever before. Of course, if you are running a whole house audio system, I would probably suggest looking for an amp specifically designed for that.

It seems like there have been a lot of questions in the last few months regarding power problems with whole house audio systems that are using components that are not designed for that application.

Shinerman

 

[Mudcat]

What you're suggerting is askin to trying to do a root canal with a Black & Decker 3/8" variable speed drill and some epoxy.

While hiking in a wilderness area in Colorado, I cut my arm bad enough to require stiches. Since help was literally miles and days away, I used superglue. It worked, and I have only a small scar (I wanted a really big scar though).

 

[joelincoln]

While I agree that self-diagnosis/repair is difficult and has a low chance of success... at this point it sounds like we're ready for despiration. He'll probably end up tossing the unit since it probably won't be cost effective to repair.

Also, just because he takes it to a "professional" for repair doesn't mean that the root cause of the problem will be fixed either.

And as far as "danger" is concerned... this is not a high-voltage device. As long as he takes some common-sense precautions like unplugging the unit, there is little danger.

 

[markw]

Also, just because he takes it to a "professional" for repair doesn't mean that the root cause of the problem will be fixed either.

Well, if you left it to the professional to do his job and troubleshoot the problem correctly instead of handicapping him by telling him what parts to replace, there's a pretty good chance he just might nail it. That's why professionals exist. Because they know what they are doing and, more often than not, they get it right. Otherwise, they would shortly be out of business. Heck, even doctors and lawyers lose occasionally.

Cost effective is another story but since he's out $90 for taking it in anyway, he's lost out already. Might as well let the guy do his thing since he's being paid for his time AND knowledge. Using your suggestion he's paying the tech $90 for his time based on Maverick's knowledge which, forgive me Maverick, but I don't think it's up to the tech's.

In either case, replacing bad parts is the easy part of the job. It's knowing how to tell why they went bad where the challange comes in. Trust me on this one. Been there... done that...

Face it, your suggestion was just plain silly and would surely be a total waste of time and money. It merely pointed out your lack of understanding of what goes on "under the hood" of these thingies. I was trying to be subtle with the dental analogy but I guess that doesn't always work.

 

[mavrick]

Thanks for all the replies on this.

To answer your question about implementation. This unit was connected to a distribution block that fed out to impedence matched volume controls. Supposedly these controls were configured for the number and ohms of the speakers by a pro. This system flawlessly ran in this configuration for about 3 yrs before this power incident.

I have pretty much decided to dump this amp and get something else.

If I were to go out and get something different, I could obviously go with a regular receiver (2-channel or A/V) or a true multizone receiver. The house was prewired before I bought it and it doesnt have any control wires run out to the volume controls to tie back to the mulizone receiver. These could be fairly easily added if needed. I wouldn't mind doing a multizone receiver with paging input from my phone system, but I am not sure I want to spend the kind of money I am guessing a receiver like this would cost.

Any thoughts?
Thanks again for all the input!

 

[joelincoln]

That's why professionals exist. Because they know what they are doing

That is certainly not always the case. Who do you think is going to end up making this repair, the designer? The issue is that this will cost the owner money... maybe a lot of it and that is just not cost justified.

Face it, your suggestion was just plain silly and would surely be a total waste of time and money. It merely pointed out your lack of understanding of what goes on "under the hood" of these thingies. I was trying to be subtle with the dental analogy but I guess that doesn't always work.

I'm sorry you have so little regard for your own abilities. I have been very successful quite a number of times when I have "fixed" electronic equipment that would otherwise have been dumped. It's not always that difficult to resolve these problems...sometimes all it takes is a little common-sense and patience. If the choice is do nothing and toss it, or give it a shot and try to fix it... well I'd have thought the answer was a no-brainer.

 

[markw]

Fools rush in where angels fear to tread.

That is certainly not always the case. Who do you think is going to end up making this repair, the designer? The issue is that this will cost the owner money... maybe a lot of it and that is just not cost justified..

A good tech works from schematics. Also, most techs charge a flat rate for labor and then charge for the parts used. You should know that, Joe.

I'm sorry you have so little regard for your own abilities. I have been very successful quite a number of times when I have "fixed" electronic equipment that would otherwise have been dumped. It's not always that difficult to resolve these problems...sometimes all it takes is a little common-sense and patience. If the choice is do nothing and toss it, or give it a shot and try to fix it... well I'd have thought the answer was a no-brainer.

Oh, I wouldn't say that I doubt my abilities as much as I have enough experience here to know when I'm out of my league. I've repaired equipment 40 years ago to put myself through school, support a small side business and such but, their design as of late has become such that without a good deal of know how and some decent equipment, any service beyond replacing a fuse, spraying a control and the occasional bad solder joint is pretty much beyond the scope of most amatuers.

Common sense and patience have little to do with it. Knowledge of what goes on under the hood is what it takes. That, a schematic, experience and some good test equipment. Then patience and common sense come into play.

But, I'll be the first to admit I don't know everything, I'm always open to learn new things. ...have been ever since I started playing with and fixing these gadgets in the early 60's. Since we're both from Joisey, and it's such a small state, maybe I could stop by your shop and you could teach me a few things.

 

[markw]

Thanks for all the replies on this.

To answer your question about implementation. This unit was connected to a distribution block that fed out to impedence matched volume controls. Supposedly these controls were configured for the number and ohms of the speakers by a pro. This system flawlessly ran in this configuration for about 3 yrs before this power incident.

I have pretty much decided to dump this amp and get something else.

If I were to go out and get something different, I could obviously go with a regular receiver (2-channel or A/V) or a true multizone receiver. The house was prewired before I bought it and it doesnt have any control wires run out to the volume controls to tie back to the mulizone receiver. These could be fairly easily added if needed. I wouldn't mind doing a multizone receiver with paging input from my phone system, but I am not sure I want to spend the kind of money I am guessing a receiver like this would cost.

Any thoughts?
Thanks again for all the input!

This "whole house" stuff is still pretty new but I'll simply blurt out some thoughts, with no guarantee.

I'm curious about this "distribution block". If it maintained a constant load (impedance) on the receiver at a value it could sustain, (and since it lasted three years that's a good bet), then all seems well from that area.

One question that would be good to know is what impedance did it present to the amp, and did it maintain that impedance regardless of whatever settings were applied to the individual speakers in the rooms?

The next issue would be that if it was inefficient and caused the amp to work extra hard to maintain the levels required, problems might arise. Unless the amp was running very hot constantly, then this would not be an issue.

If it was running fairly cool, then it's failure may be one of those "shiite happens" kind of things.

In any case, for multiple speakers and level controls, I think a heftier amp that was comfortable at high power and low impedances would be better suited for this task than those in your standard run of the mill home stereo.

Perhaps a commercial amp fronted by a plain vanilla tuner/preamp end like an Adcom 400 or a NAD 1600*? Both of which are readily available on the used market for a song.

I'm sure that box and the L pads in the rooms sucked up a goodly amount of power that never made it to the speakers.

Good luck. Keep us posted...

* I run a NAD 1600 and have no complaints.

 

[joelincoln]

Mark,
Gee, I'm sorry you're so defensive on this subject. I never would have brought it up. I respect someone who knows his limitations. My only point is that in my experience, most folks have at least a shot at fixing minor problems and in a situation like this, why not take the shot.

But I don't want to hijack this thread any longer so I've said my last on this.