Svs ultra 16" sub not working

TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
I think so too. Just hoping it could be something I missed so I don't have to box this beast up and get it shipped back

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Ask SVS if they will let you open the sub. I think a terminal has fallen off the sub driver in transit. I hate spade connectors on speaker drivers. Commercial speakers seem to use this connection all the time. That will allow the spades to fall off some of the time. I always solder connections to loudspeaker drivers, and have NEVER had a connection give trouble.
 
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Danzilla31

Audioholic Ninja
I think so too. Just hoping it could be something I missed so I don't have to box this beast up and get it shipped back

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I owned 2 of the PB 4000's if it turned out to be a bad amp or driver you won't ever have to ship it back to SVS. They will send you anew driver or amp they are pretty easy to install with there instructions but you will need a helper as everything about those subs are heavy. Box and drivers
 
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gholt

Full Audioholic
Thanks I'll be calling them today

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S

snakeeyes

Audioholic Ninja
Ask SVS if they will let you open the sub. I think a terminal has fallen off the sub driver in transit. I hate spade connectors on speaker drivers. Commercial speakers seem to use this connection all the time. That will allow the spades to fall off some of the time. I always solder connections to loudspeaker drivers, and have NEVER had a connection give trouble.
This seems like the likely cause. At least from the description. Those speaker wire spade connectors that slide onto the sub driver can definitely come loose on the woofer. (This is the wire from the plate amp to the woofer)
 
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gholt

Full Audioholic
So I took it apart and did the bump test with 9v battery. I couldn't get the speaker too work.

I could be see any spade connections. Here is a pic of the neck of the amp.
PXL_20211021_070550812.jpg


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ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Warlord
Are you able to see the back of the driver where the cables connect?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
So I took it apart and did the bump test with 9v battery. I couldn't get the speaker too work.

I could be see any spade connections. Here is a pic of the neck of the amp.View attachment 50960

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You need to remove the driver. That was the place to start!
 
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shadyJ

Speaker of the House
Staff member
You need to remove the driver. That was the place to start!
You can't just remove the driver from the PB16-Ultra, it is a massive unit that is specially installed. You need special tools to remove and install it. He needs to check if the cables are connected to the driver from the amp cutout on the box. He also has to be very careful not to put tension on the cables that connect the amp to the front LED display.
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Overlord
You can't just remove the driver from the PB16-Ultra, it is a massive unit that is specially installed. You need special tools to remove and install it. He needs to check if the cables are connected to the driver from the amp cutout on the box. He also has to be very careful not to put tension on the cables that connect the amp to the front LED display.
I didn't even think about how big and heavy that driver is. I can see why SVS would direct someone to go in through the amp cutout.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
You can't just remove the driver from the PB16-Ultra, it is a massive unit that is specially installed. You need special tools to remove and install it. He needs to check if the cables are connected to the driver from the amp cutout on the box. He also has to be very careful not to put tension on the cables that connect the amp to the front LED display.
What special construction/tools does it have/need particularly?
 
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shadyJ

Speaker of the House
Staff member
What special construction/tools does it have/need particularly?
I don't remember exactly. I talked to Ed Mullen about removing the driver for taking picture of it for my PB16-Ultra review, and he strongly advised against that, explaining that the driver had certain special procedures and tools because of its weight and depth. He never discouraged me from taking apart any of their other subs, just the 16-Ultras. I would imagine that you need to first unscrew the basket from the brace holding the motor before you unscrew the frame from the front baffle.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
I don't remember exactly. I talked to Ed Mullen about removing the driver for taking picture of it for my PB16-Ultra review, and he strongly advised against that, explaining that the driver had certain special procedures and tools because of its weight and depth. He never discouraged me from taking apart any of their other subs, just the 16-Ultras. I would imagine that you need to first unscrew the basket from the brace holding the motor before you unscrew the frame from the front baffle.
In that case if he can't see the driver, then he needs to see if he can take a picture with his cell phone.

That is totally daft if they used spade connectors on a driver, that takes special tools to get in and out.

Guys, build your own subs, it is not that difficult.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
I don't remember exactly. I talked to Ed Mullen about removing the driver for taking picture of it for my PB16-Ultra review, and he strongly advised against that, explaining that the driver had certain special procedures and tools because of its weight and depth. He never discouraged me from taking apart any of their other subs, just the 16-Ultras. I would imagine that you need to first unscrew the basket from the brace holding the motor before you unscrew the frame from the front baffle.
I see this is the driver. It has what looks like nasty spring loaded terminals on the driver. These look tailor made to allow a wire to slip out in transit.



If that driver is that hard to get at the wires should be soldered to the terminals.
 
Auditor55

Auditor55

Audioholic General
So I took it apart and did the bump test with 9v battery. I couldn't get the speaker too work.

I could be see any spade connections. Here is a pic of the neck of the amp.View attachment 50960

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
You would have been lucky if it was the amp.
 
Auditor55

Auditor55

Audioholic General
In that case if he can't see the driver, then he needs to see if he can take a picture with his cell phone.

That is totally daft if they used spade connectors on a driver, that takes special tools to get in and out.

Guys, build your own subs, it is not that difficult.
That probably would be fun to do just like when I built my first computer. :)
 
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gholt

Full Audioholic
I talked to svs again and they suggested getting brand new batteries to test again. They also suggested against taking the driver out for the reasons suggested here.

SVS thinks it's a dead amp or bad driver. It makes me wonder how this gets through everyone without getting caught. Then I remember I work in manufacturing and how some of ours escape to the customer.

I can reach into the back of the box and touch the connection to the driver and it feels like they are connected. It's not the spade connection, it's the banana plug type with the wires hard screwed in to the driver

Here are pics from the back. It's a little hard to reach add I'm still rehabbing from broken ankle. So hard to sit cross legged on ground and reach clear up on the sub my arm needs to be about 3" longer.


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G

gholt

Full Audioholic
So did the bump test again. No bueno.

So if to call SVS again.

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gholt

Full Audioholic
I called SVS and they are sending out a new driver and the tool to get the driver out.

I also took my ohm meter out and put it on it isn't showing any resistance.

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