Subwoofer rattling

[Actran]

I recently started playing with my sub's dials and started turning the gain up. However, past about 50% the sub will start rattling during bass heavy scenes. It's not the cracking typical of overdriven speakers, but sounds like something is shaking. Any ideas? The sub is an EMP1010i and is about 3 month old.

Is this just the price of paying $350 for a sub?

 

[ImcLoud]

Subs shake stuff, but usually not themselves... that is a ported sub so it probably has not blown itself open, if you knock on it does it sound solid, also try shaking the sub around see if something is loose in there, maybe they gave you some extra screws, I have had that happen... Try chanign positions move it to the center of the room... if all else fails, and you really don't listen to it that loud anyway {since its 3 months old by the time you found this out}and you don't think its mechanically related to the sub, just don't turn it up that much... Kind of like when I went to the doctors and told him "my neck hurts when I turn it like this', he said "don't turn it like that" and sent me on my way with a 15$ copay and a green lollypop....

 

[Adam]

Back in 1998, I paid $700 for a B&W sub. It rattled. The dealer told me that they all do that - and while I knew he was lying, I was dumb enough not to ask B&W for two years. After I contacted them directly, they quickly told me that they had a bad production run and that it was a known defect.

My point? Long-winded , but...contact EMP. It shouldn't rattle.

 

[Bryceo]

Is it on a riser? I noticed Myn rattled on the riser,
and that was a loose heat sink plate, also is the driver tight?
port tight make sure everything is tight

 

[MidnightSensi2]

+1 for contact them.

Vibration is hard to describe. I mean, I've heard people say their subwoofer is vibrating and then when they show me it's just hitting the limiter (sometimes they are noisey), other times it was something rattling inside the enclosure, other times it was just something in the house.

Let us know what they say if you call. Always good to know for future reference of helping people.

 

[afterlife2]

I recently started playing with my sub's dials and started turning the gain up. However, past about 50% the sub will start rattling during bass heavy scenes. It's not the cracking typical of overdriven speakers, but sounds like something is shaking. Any ideas? The sub is an EMP1010i and is about 3 month old.

Is this just the price of paying $350 for a sub?

I know this must be a stupid question, but do you have anything on top of the woofer?

 

[j_garcia]

The simplest thing I would suggest is take a screwdriver (or the appropriate tool for what the sub has) and check that all the screws are tight like Bryceo said.

"Crackling" is not a sign of an overdriven speaker, it is a sign of a speaker that is DONE.

 

[Actran]

Everything I have access to from the outside is snug. Nothing on top. However, something does move around a little when I physically shake the sub (as much as I can shake a huge, heavy box. I do hear something shaking inside, but it doesn't sound like a loose screw or anything. It almost sounds like wires hitting something in the enclosure.

I'll follow up with EMP on Monday and see where that goes.

Edit: I found the issue. The front panel (not the fabric covered part, but the actual part of the enclosure) and the rest of the enclosure in the top left corner were rattling / whistling. I put the green painters tape around the perimeter covering the joint of the two pieces and the issue went away. Gain all the way up and making the Denon work hard and still no issue. I'll see what EMP recommends.

 

[Actran]

My temporary solution - see image.

 

[MidnightSensi2]

Ah, yeah, looks like it didn't get sealed, or not all the way. Then if there is 'something' shaking inside, it is probably some wires or parts floating around. You could pull a driver off an investigate, but, I would recommend not. Send it back, and... consider your options (can let them fix it or find another brand).

To me, QC is really important to a speaker company. While I was searching for your problem, I saw they sent Audioholics one with the wrong driver in one spot, another user had tweeter problems, now yours is..um...returnable under US implied warranty law lol. That said, Audioholics gave them good reviews, and, *shrug* could be isolated incidents?

Speakers aren't hard to make, good speakers are, so, when you go to these smaller builders you can either get a great value from low overhead or a dud.

 

[Actran]

Alright, my second encounter with EMP customer service is not quite as satisfying as my first, but that's only because they spoiled me the first time. With this sub, since I'm out of the 30 day RTV window, I would have to pay for return shipping if I want them to fix it. They did provide instruction on how to fix it myself if I preferred to do that (and I got the feeling they preferred I did as well).

While I would much rather they fix it, I'm not too keen on covering shipping for a 50 pound box. I was told that pulling the driver in order to better seal the enclosure would not void my warranty in any way. However, they could not provide some of the details I would expect to be needed for this repair. For example, they don't have a torque spec for the driver's fasteners or any specific recommendation on what type of sealant to use. That's just not good manufacturing practice. Especially since the fasteners go directly into wood rather than an insert of some type. I know it was a "value" sub, but these are basic assembly practices.

If you're going to send me into the woods at least give me a flashlight. Well, here I go..

 

[MidnightSensi2]

Alright, my second encounter with EMP customer service is not quite as satisfying as my first, but that's only because they spoiled me the first time. With this sub, since I'm out of the 30 day RTV window, I would have to pay for return shipping if I want them to fix it. They did provide instruction on how to fix it myself if I preferred to do that (and I got the feeling they preferred I did as well).

While I would much rather they fix it, I'm not too keen on covering shipping for a 50 pound box. I was told that pulling the driver in order to better seal the enclosure would not void my warranty in any way. However, they could not provide some of the details I would expect to be needed for this repair. For example, they don't have a torque spec for the driver's fasteners or any specific recommendation on what type of sealant to use. That's just not good manufacturing practice. Especially since the fasteners go directly into wood rather than an insert of some type. I know it was a "value" sub, but these are basic assembly practices.

If you're going to send me into the woods at least give me a flashlight. Well, here I go..

What?!

EMP Tek Product Warranty

You've had it three months.

Talk to someone else there, or ask for the owner. It says in the warranty you would void it by trying to fix it yourself, and that they will pay for fixing it. If the okay was just given verbally, then your kinda outa luck if something else goes wrong.

 

[MidnightSensi2]

Yeah, more I think about this it bothers me, it must have been someone new working that answered the phone. Ask for a manager or something, your within your warranty ... and plus it states clearly on their website:

"If the product should prove defective within the warranty period, contact EMP Tek for a return authorization number prior to returning the product by prepaid delivery to EMP Tek"

 

[Actran]

Yeah, more I think about this it bothers me, it must have been someone new working that answered the phone. Ask for a manager or something, your within your warranty ... and plus it states clearly on their website:

"If the product should prove defective within the warranty period, contact EMP Tek for a return authorization number prior to returning the product by prepaid delivery to EMP Tek"

Yeah. It's not sitting well with me either. I'm going to escalate.

 

[Actran]

I'm returning it for them to repair it. The "prepaid" return shipping that is a bit ambiguous in the warranty statement means that the customer pays according to the manager I talked to. However, I was shown some light at the end of the tunnel. Shipping reimbursement may be an option depending on what their inspection finds. I'm still pretty disappointed with the difficulty, but at least my warranty will be intact and I may not be out any money in the long run.

 

[sterling shoote]

Sounds like clipping, or worse, a torn foam surround. I have heard both from my sub. Clipping was solved by going from a 300 watt amp to a 560 watt amp to power the sub. Rattling was eliminated by replacing torn foam surround. I think you have a torn surround. Push the sub's cone with your fingers to unfold the surround and look closely for breaks, cracks, or separations in the material.

 

[MidnightSensi2]

I'm returning it for them to repair it. The "prepaid" return shipping that is a bit ambiguous in the warranty statement means that the customer pays according to the manager I talked to. However, I was shown some light at the end of the tunnel. Shipping reimbursement may be an option depending on what their inspection finds. I'm still pretty disappointed with the difficulty, but at least my warranty will be intact and I may not be out any money in the long run.

Curious how this goes. I can understand having the shipment reimbursement upon receipt and them seeing if it was abuse, that's fair in my opinion. But that should be clearly stated in the warranty. It's not.

Again, I that giving them a fair chance to fix it is important. And it sounds like they'll refund your shipping and send you a new subwoofer. I would demand a new subwoofer though (one that hasn't been shipped back and forth, had the drivers operating in a faulty enclosure, stuff rattling around in it).

One more thing... how did you pay? Like American Express if I have a problem like this I generally let the manufacturer have a go, if they aren't fair, I call American Express and tell them the story. They put the company on notice, and the company is on the defensive to prove otherwise. Only had this happen a few times, but all times they just asked for photographs and a description of the issue, I forwarded them the e-mail correspondance, then handled it from there. Mine were pretty cut and dry, but, really so is yours.

Just make some when you call them that they send you ask for a follow up e-mail in writing so that you clearly understand. Again, be polite, a lot of times companies will try their best to make things right and sometimes you just get the wrong person on the phone that sets a bad precedent.

Again though: NEW SUBWOOFER, NOT YOURS FIXED.

 

[Actran]

For those interested in how this all turned out......

EMP actually went ahead and prepaid the return shipping and returned a brand new sub to me. They also expedited the shipment so I could have the sub in time for this weekend. All in all I was satisfied with the customer service. That's the good news...

now the bad news... The replacement sub has the exact same issue though in a different corner of the enclosure. In other words, they just don't seem to effectively seal their subs. I covered the joint with electric tape and it once again fixes the issue and is virtually unnoticeable from more than 6 inches away. Not ideal, but I'm not doing another RTV cycle since the end result is likely the same.

despite that, I still think the sub is worth the $350 I paid for it, but I'll be saving up for a little better second sub. I can't afford better than this for now so I'm not going to mess with a refund request or anything.