Subwoofer cross over

Y

yveletnik

Junior Audioholic
Hi all,

I'm a little confused on the whole "sub-woofer crossing with low end on speakers". After reading a bit about it it looks like those 2 are not suppose to cross, or cross just a bit. so for example if I get a Sub that goes 20-100 Hz and my speakers do (lets take KEF for argument sake):

Q500 = 41Hz - 40 KHz then 40Hz to 100Hz will overlap and I will need to choose if I want to run it through sub or speakers

or if i take

T301 = 80Hz - 30KHz overlap only goes from 80 to 100 so i set crossing to 90 Hz and still cover a full range

So I guess the question is whats the point of having speakers with low frequencies if your sub will do a better job anyways. Would it mean that bookshelfs or even something like KEF T301 set will sound as good as tower set given a good sub-woofer?

Am I missing somthing here?
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
Well if you're running a sub, there really is no advantage to speakers that go down to 40 Hz versus, say, 60 Hz. However, increased lower-end extension is often a byproduct of speakers that are larger and have more drivers. The real benefits of larger speakers with more drivers are decreased distortion, higher power handling, sometimes increased sensitivity, etc.

You can't compare the T301 to the Q500 based purely on extension, though. They are very different speakers with different drivers, different cabinets, and different crossovers. Yes, they will both probably be fed a similar signal (although you'd want to cross over the T301 at 100 Hz and the Q500 at 60 or 80 Hz), but what they do with the same signal will differ greatly.
 
sholling

sholling

Audioholic Ninja
I think part of your confusion is due to the nature of crossovers, it isn't doing a sharp A:B cut over. It's doing a gradual transition from the speakers to the sub starting well above the crossover setting and continuing well below the crossover setting. The idea is to create a smooth seamless blend. Just based on specs in the first example I'd set the crossover in the receiver to 60hz to allow some overlap and a better blended transition while allowing the speaker to handle as much of the bass as is practical.

In the second example I'd set the receiver's crossover to 80hz because any higher and the source of the deep bass becomes easy to locate and the source of the sound becomes more obvious as the sound traditions between speaker and subwoofer and back. This is why I try to select speakers that are rated down to at least 60hz I want a 20hz cushion to allow for a smooth transition. It's not always possible and sometimes you fall in love with a speaker that has more limited bass extension than you'd like.

As for why choose speakers that can play lower than say 60hz? That really depends on the quality of the speakers and the quality of the sub. A good subwoofer is usually going to have a lot more power behind it allowing it to produce much more dynamic bass. On the other hand not all subwoofers reproduce musical details as well as the woofers in really good speakers. Here we get into personal preference. Some prefer allowing a near full range tower to handle everything down to 40hz or so and others prefer to save a bit of money on the speakers and buy bookshelves capable of 50-60hz (crossing at 70-80hz) and putting that money into a top notch subwoofer.
 
Pyrrho

Pyrrho

Audioholic Ninja
Hi all,

I'm a little confused on the whole "sub-woofer crossing with low end on speakers". After reading a bit about it it looks like those 2 are not suppose to cross, or cross just a bit. so for example if I get a Sub that goes 20-100 Hz and my speakers do (lets take KEF for argument sake):

Q500 = 41Hz - 40 KHz then 40Hz to 100Hz will overlap and I will need to choose if I want to run it through sub or speakers

or if i take

T301 = 80Hz - 30KHz overlap only goes from 80 to 100 so i set crossing to 90 Hz and still cover a full range

So I guess the question is whats the point of having speakers with low frequencies if your sub will do a better job anyways. Would it mean that bookshelfs or even something like KEF T301 set will sound as good as tower set given a good sub-woofer?

Am I missing somthing here?
The problem with the KEF T301 sounding as good as a more full range speaker is partly explained by sholling's remark about a crossover not being an absolute brick wall, but creates a slope in the frequency response such that frequencies below the crossover point are still going to the upper speaker, but at an increasingly reduced rate. And frequencies above the crossover point are still going to the lower speaker, but at an increasingly reduced rate. See the diagram at:

http://www.bcae1.com/xovrslop.htm

where the different colored lines represent different crossover slopes; not all crossovers reduce the frequencies at the same rate.

Because of this, you want the upper speaker to be able to deal with frequencies below the crossover point, to some extent.

Additionally, as sholling indicated, but did not state overly well, as the frequency goes up in the bass, human ability to locate the frequency by sound alone increases. The THX standard is to set the crossover frequency at 80Hz which will make it difficult or impossible to locate the subwoofer by sound alone (excepting cases where the subwoofer is distorting, which will often produce harmonics of a higher frequency than what is fed to it). Going higher than that increases your chances of localizing the sound, which is not good, because those sounds are supposed to be coming from one of the main speakers, not from the direction of wherever the subwoofer is placed.

If you were to use test tones to try to find out when you could localize the sound and when you could not, you would find that the transition is not sudden from absolutely can't tell to it being perfectly obvious what direction it is coming from; it would go from not being able to tell, to thinking that maybe it is coming from that direction but aren't sure, to being pretty sure, to being reasonably certain.

In practice, how easy it is to locate the direction of the sound is going to depend on other sounds that are occurring at that same time; it would be easier to locate a single tone than to locate that tone combined with a bunch of other tones, so there isn't a simple answer to precisely what frequency you can get away with using, though you should be okay with 80 Hz or lower, and with most speakers, 80Hz will likely be the best choice.

In fact, it is due to the human inability to locate the direction of a sound of a low frequency by the sound alone that enables the use of subwoofers at all; otherwise, all speakers would need to be full range in order to have the proper directional effect of surround sound.


As to your question about what will sound best with a bookshelf and subwoofer versus a more full range speaker and subwoofer, it is going to depend upon the specifics involved. Let us assume that we are going to compare two systems that cost the same, that use the same subwoofer. If you select tower speakers that are more full range, you will not be buying in the same lineup as a bookshelf speaker that costs the same as that tower speaker. So you might actually get better sound for your money if you go with a bookshelf speaker instead of a tower speaker.

Most people compare such things improperly, as they typically think of one line of speaker and then compare the bookshelf in that line with a tower in that line. But that is comparing a more expensive speaker with a cheaper one, and is not comparing speakers at the same price point.


Now, often, a tower speaker is going to be able to play louder than the bookshelf speaker, but for that same amount of money, you could get a better quality bookshelf speaker, and so it is very questionable which is going to be better in practice. It might turn out that one will play louder without distortion, but that at lower volumes the other one sounds better. Really, though, we would have to look at specific examples to know what will be better, and even then, we will have subjective preferences regarding what is better.

In my case, I use high quality bookshelf speakers for all channels (except subwoofers, of course), and I am very happy with the setup. My bookshelf speakers have a -3dB of 50Hz, and I use an 80Hz crossover for my subwoofers. With my system using identical speakers all around, I get perfect voice matching of my speakers. My system is also capable of playing louder than I ever want to hear it in my room, without noticeable strain on my bookshelf speakers.

But, I am not trying to recreate the volume of the loudest rock concert ever, and so it might be the case that someone who wanted to do that would be dissatisfied (or not; I do not know how loud my system will play). But playing things at such high volumes does permanent damage to one's hearing, so I would advise against it anyway, particularly if you want to be able to enjoy your system when you are old, and do not want to end up needing a hearing aid.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
I also set my crossover to 80Hz for my Salon2s, Orions, and 201/2s.

My Orions shake like a rag doll if I set the crossover to 40Hz or run full range.:eek:
 
Y

yveletnik

Junior Audioholic
thnks

great answers, thanks. makes sense now, i actually like the idea of better bookshelfs with a nice sub. and it will sure make my wife happy:)
 
Y

yveletnik

Junior Audioholic
result

just looked at my budget and I think I can do this:

KEF
Q300 front, Q200C center, Q100 back, Rythmik FV12 for a sub

NHT
2 or 3 Bookshelf for the front, 2 or 3 center, absolute zero for the back, Rythmik FV12 for a sub

SVS
SCS-02(M) front and center, SBS-02 back, Rythmik FV12 for a sub
or
SBS-02 5.0 surround set $779 with Rythmik FV12

or maybe even

Klipsch
RB-81 front, RC62 for center, RS52 for the back, same Rythmik FV12


if I will not piss my wife with towers I will do it with the 80Lb sub:)

am I on the right track here? looks like any scenario should be under or around $1,500 which will leave like $400-500 for the reciever
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
I think you're definitely on the right track. Consider the HSU VTF-2, or the VTF-3 if you have a slightly larger room. I understand the FV12 is a great sub, but the VTF-2 is also a great sub. The VTF-2 has proven to have fantastic measurements over various tests and I haven't seen a good independent test of the FV12 yet.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
KEF Q300 front, Q200C center, Q100 back, Rythmik FV12
Hey, wait a minute, this looks like something I would recommend.:eek::D

The most important thing is how the speakers will sound to you; we can all agree with that.

The second most important is how they measure (on-axis FR, horizontal 60-deg & vertical off-axis polar response, power response, cabinet resonance, Phase, Impedance, etc.). The KEF Q900 has superb measurements per John Atkinson of Stereophile. The Q300 may be similarly impressive.

Wife acceptable factor is always important.:D

Then there is also that "prestige" brand name factor. It's not important, but it's another minor factor. To me, it seems like the big audiophile names are Revel, KEF, & B&W.:D
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
Hey, wait a minute, this looks like something I would recommend.:eek::D
Run away, run away!!

;)

I haven't heard the KEF, but given the reviews and measurements I have seen of the Q series, I imagine they would indeed make you happy. Given those choices, I would personally get the NHTs in a heartbeat.
 
zieglj01

zieglj01

Audioholic Spartan
I would look hard at the NHT or KEF, and if you can not decide -
then do a coin toss. The NHT does a good job with movies and
music.
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
The second most important is how they measure (on-axis FR, horizontal 60-deg & vertical off-axis polar response, power response, cabinet resonance, Phase, Impedance, etc.).
You forgot linearity as SPL changes ;P
 

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